
Running 5000 BTU air conditioner solar
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A buried heat pipe will need some way to move the cooler (and thus more dense) air from a lower elevation (underground) to a higher elevation (above ground). That will take some power, therefore not passive. On the whole, to be effective at all, such ground source methods of heating/cooling require careful design and in addition are usually more costly to build and maintain than most folks realize, not to mention the safety considerations with respect to air quality that need to be addressed. Maybe not a bad idea on paper or in the mind, but the devil is in the details.
Now the practical part depends on the math I suppose. Maybe to be functional enough to matter maybe the chimney and pipe need to be 10" or 5 ft across. OR if the chimney needs to be 5 ft or 90ft and corrugated steel or 4" thick concrete to absorb the heat of the day I know not. Just wondering if its been done.Leave a comment:
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You can sure the the age of some posters from their questions and answers. None of them have ever heard of a Water Bed us ole Hippies use to make waves rocking the boat.Leave a comment:
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We are acclimatised and prefer not to have A/ C if we can. There are some uncomfortable nights but we are ok as is.
A/C in cars is never turned off.Leave a comment:
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A buried heat pipe will need some way to move the cooler (and thus more dense) air from a lower elevation (underground) to a higher elevation (above ground). That will take some power, therefore not passive. On the whole, to be effective at all, such ground source methods of heating/cooling require careful design and in addition are usually more costly to build and maintain than most folks realize, not to mention the safety considerations with respect to air quality that need to be addressed. Maybe not a bad idea on paper or in the mind, but the devil is in the details.Leave a comment:
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The worst time here when you would really need cooling is night time, very high humidity. So if I were to put in a pipe I would need a decent fan, so it would be a drain on my existing system. A lot of continuous watts of a long time. There is no way I could close up the house, it would be to stuffy.
I could sleep by the creek but the mozzies would be horrendous.
This house was built for no A/C, if it gets to a point where we cant stand it any longer I will sell up and move to a house with mains power and then have all the A/C I want.Leave a comment:
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If we were real serious about minimizing the sweat we would move to a cot or hammock. I here there are new bed topping devices that help shed heat and wick moisture. Anyone tried them?Leave a comment:
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Down in Baja, some nights we prefer a pedestal fan aimed right at us to the AC with windows closed up. The fans evaporative cooling on otherwise sweating, hot skin works pretty well. I'm laughing, thinking of the mental picture this explanation may cause, but from experience I can say, the fan really works. Ceiling fans look nice but are just about useless in this scenario.
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Have you measured the COP to confirm your beliefs ?
Dirty little secret that's related to heating and heat pump efficiency (COP):
A well insulated and sealed dwelling will not need heat until a lower outside temp. is reached than an identical dwelling that's not as well sealed, mostly because of uncontrolled or unintentional internal heat gain or solar gain. As the heat load goes down, the internal/solar gain represents a greater percentage of the (now smaller) heating load. That effectively lowers something called the balance temp. - the outside temp. below which the building requires heat to maintain comfort. Example: When I bought my first house in Buffalo, the balance temp. was about 60 F. That is, when the ave. outside temp. dropped to 60 F or less and stayed there for ~ 8 hrs. or so, the house needed heat to maintain an indoor temp. of 68 F. Once I got done remodeling and some serious conservation efforts of the variety that some neighbors and friends called extreme, the balance temp. dropped to about 43 F and, not specific to this conversation, but with some implications to HSPF, the building time constant increased to ~ 23 hours.
Now, a heat pump operating with the original load and heating profile and balance temp. would have been operating more often when it was warmer outside (warmer than 43 F), meaning it would be operating more efficiently due to operation in warmer weather, but operating more. Point is, the COP would have been higher ("better") working to a higher balance temp. ,but operating more and as a result using more electricity for heating on an annual basis. After conservation efforts, a heat pump would not have operated as much in warmer weather and with a higher percentage of the operation happening when outside temps. were lower, meaning the COP would have been lower, even though the use of electricity would have been less due to the much lower heating load.Leave a comment:
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The ACDC12C is in the mini split class, so I believe the (very respectable) mid 3s COPs include all
parasitic losses. Bruce RoeLeave a comment:
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