sealed Flooded Lead acid

[PNjunction]

In Europe and elsewhere, leisure-batteries are marketed as deep-cycle as they are not really intended to start the car. A quick generic consumer type guide for them can be found here:

http://www.campingandcaravanningclub.co.uk/helpandadvice/technicalhelp/datasheets/guide-leisure-batteries/

Sure enough you can open the caps on the flooded/sealed ones and replace electrolyte, but for most leisure type caravan duties, the owner isn't really interested in hydrometers. With cooler temps and as long as one doesn't try to EQ it, the premise is that you can leisurely ignore maintenance for a few years.

Compared to a TRUE deep cycle, the leisure types are what would be a "cheep and cheerful" solution for the odd outing. They make ok "learner batteries", but those with serious daily-cyclic or more advanced setups will want a true deep cycle. Similar, but not exactly the same as to what we do on this side of the pond graduating from a so-called "dual purpose" or marine battery.

[Bala]

The "maintenance free" batteries that i am familiar with are all automotive starting batteries. They are still vented, just with non-obvious vents. And in every case I have seen you can, with the right tools, non-destructively pry open the vent caps to either use a hydrometer or add water to the cells. Not as easily as with conventional caps (and I really hate the conventional caps that cover three cells with a single piece vent cover!) but well enough to do a cell-by-cell SG check or add water if it turns out that the battery needs equalization.
That said, I am not really comfortable in the first place with any CC that automatically tries to perform true equalization rather than just an extended absorb.

I tried getting the tops of one a little while ago, definitely destructive getting it off, there are some now where the tops are well and truly glued on.

[inetdog]

Sorry - back to the original topic...

A so-called "maintenance free" flooded battery should be treated as a flooded but with NO equalization. It is "sealed", which means that you cannot use a hydrometer to test for specific gravity. BUT, they do contain a slightly increased amount of electrolyte to nurse them to about 4 years of no-maintenance without excessive water loss.

This means 14.4v absorb, and NO EQUALIZATION, unless they specify otherwise.

The "maintenance free" batteries that i am familiar with are all automotive starting batteries. They are still vented, just with non-obvious vents. And in every case I have seen you can, with the right tools, non-destructively pry open the vent caps to either use a hydrometer or add water to the cells. Not as easily as with conventional caps (and I really hate the conventional caps that cover three cells with a single piece vent cover!) but well enough to do a cell-by-cell SG check or add water if it turns out that the battery needs equalization.
That said, I am not really comfortable in the first place with any CC that automatically tries to perform true equalization rather than just an extended absorb.

[PNjunction]

Sorry - back to the original topic...

A so-called "maintenance free" flooded battery should be treated as a flooded but with NO equalization. It is "sealed", which means that you cannot use a hydrometer to test for specific gravity. BUT, they do contain a slightly increased amount of electrolyte to nurse them to about 4 years of no-maintenance without excessive water loss.

This means 14.4v absorb, and NO EQUALIZATION, unless they specify otherwise.

So you'll want to hit your 230ah leisure battery with anywhere from 19A on the low side, (C/12) to maybe 28A (C/8) on the high side from your array. Since these are sealed, I'd personally go no higher than 0.1C, or 23A from the array. If you go lower than 19A, then you run the risk of electrolyte stratification.

So you'll want to keep on top of things. As for "made for solar", that is basically a marketing technique to say "you can charge a battery with solar".

So sure enough, it is not the ideal battery for daily-deep cycle operations, but is true to it's mark - leisurely non-critical use. Ie, if you abuse it, you recycle it and buy another. Think of this as your "learner battery". With a little reading and hands-on, your next battery may be chosen to be a better fit for your application.

Since you can't equalize, hopefully you can give it a day or two off once in awhile to actually finish a charge, and sit in float and suck in as much float as it can.

[PNjunction]

Yes its a marine battery, I bought it because it was the only battery option I had by that time. I'm using it for almost a year now, it had alot of abuse when I was using a inverter on it and i was in the absolute leaning stage by that time.. So now I'm buying a new battery and I hope its the correct one as it is made for solar applications, its also a sealed battery.. But will I have to charge it as a flooded battery or a Sealed Battery. Because of the venting issue of Equalizing charge.. Because to what I think is it will have to be charged as a sealed battery and not as a normal flooded battery.. Or am I wrong.?

Here comes the Tecmate-Optimate charger fan - and for good reasons like this one.

The Optimate (larger ones like the "6" and above) does not use the bog-standard cc/cv routine, and applies a different charging algo for the CV than usual. It oscillates making discharge measurements during breaks and restarts the testing during charge if necessary. This also helps balance the cells *without* blowing the tops off from long retail storage, where one or more cells may be way out of range of the others.

The pre-test before charge will tell you if you are wasting your time. Trust it. I tried to outsmart it and spent a lot of time nursing a bad battery back to what appeared to be health, when in fact the Optimate was right from the start - it knew I was bringing back a zombie with high self discharge somehow.

If it passes the pre test, and finishes the charge, allow it to do the 24 hour test followup. Some people I know pull the charger too quickly. Let the Optimate have a good weekend run with the battery. Unless you have the tools and knowledge to commision a battery, especially questionable discards, let the Optimate tell you instead.

I can think of no better TOOL than a good Optimate to tell you if you are wasting your time, and/or getting a sealed battery properly charged AND balanced internally.

[errolSA]

Hello everyone.. I'm going to upgrade my CC to a 120A 12-48v MPPT one.. Its a local made CC so its much cheaper than these expensive imported makes..

[ncs55]

As far as charging any battery, We set up the charge controllers to the manufacturer specs and considering the loads, your daily depth of discharge etc. Make sure that your charge controller is capable of charging the battery type that you choose. To maintain the batteries health you have to consider the parameters mentioned previously.

[errolSA]

Please help me out where I go wrong..
I will buy 2x Excis 230ah batteries hook them up to make 24v..
Buy another 3x 180w panels hook them up in series and parallel. They will give around 18amps. My drain on the batteries will be around 3 amps from 5-8. Then around 8 only outside lights are one which use 1amps untill 6 the morning.. Will my panels charge the batteries fully in 8 hours sun( peak is from 8am-2pm) so it 6 hours where my panels perform best.

[errolSA]

Yes its a marine battery, I bought it because it was the only battery option I had by that time. I'm using it for almost a year now, it had alot of abuse when I was using a inverter on it and i was in the absolute leaning stage by that time.. So now I'm buying a new battery and I hope its the correct one as it is made for solar applications, its also a sealed battery.. But will I have to charge it as a flooded battery or a Sealed Battery. Because of the venting issue of Equalizing charge.. Because to what I think is it will have to be charged as a sealed battery and not as a normal flooded battery.. Or am I wrong.?

[ncs55]

That battery is not FLA and from what I gather from their website I found this. "Battery that is wet but the cells are not accessible. These are Lead/Calcium
type that do not require water top up during their life. This type of battery is vented however and emits gas during discharge and recharge." It is listed as a marine battery. If you are going to use a battery for solar it would be wise to use one specifically designed for solar. DC Power has a solar specific line of batteries you might want to check out. Also note that battery has a recommended and specific charger.

[errolSA]

Lol yes they are.. Its why I'm waiting for my new battery.. Its also a sealed FLA (maintenance free) free.. But its a 695cz battery 230ah at 71kgs

[littleharbor]

Sounds like your battery is shot.

[errolSA]

I don't have much load on my battery, and I don't use any inverter (which is a complete wast of energy) .. I have 2 bit worn out batteries that I hooked up together to make 220ah@ 12v..
But I'm still struggling to work out my load and battery size requirements and solar panel size..
My panel is a 180w 22v. And controller is a victron pwm 20A pro. I also have a 85w panel. I'm still waiting for my 230ah silver calcium battery to arrive, but I think I will need to get another 3x 180w panels.

[errolSA]

No its a Sealed FLA battery.. E-Nix DC31MF

[ncs55]

Are you referring to VRLA ? (Valve regulated lead acid) which are sealed. If your batteries do not reach full charge, maybe your solar charging is to small for your load.