Question about solar panel screwing on rv roof

[sdold]

Heh...I saw Dave's post at just the right time.

[SunEagle]

Can a mod please ban this member? They are bringing back old threads while making mostly useless comments and then coming back later to edit their posts to include links to commercial sites in the hope that we won't notice.

Dang..sdold got to him first

[azdave]

If you do not know how to install it correctly, it is better to turn to professionals.

Can a mod please ban this member? They are bringing back old threads while making mostly useless comments and then coming back later to edit their posts to include links to commercial sites in the hope that we won't notice.

[JuliannaYoung]

If you do not know how to install it correctly, it is better to turn to professionals.

[PNW_Steve]

Few things.

For any substantial mounting on a camper or trailer, I recommend screwing directly to the frame members, this is the ONLY way you're going to get structural support. You'll probably want to pre-drill with a carbide bit and then use self-tapping screws.

If you are going just through the sheet metal, I guarantee you will be able to rip the entire panel off with your hand. If you can rip it off with your hand, a mild wind will easily rip it off, too.

If you insist on drilling into the sheet metal, go really slow and stop when you feel a little bit of tension. It's very easy to simply rip a hole that no longer grips the screw.

Lastly, no matter where you plan to drill, if you're putting holes in your roof, I recommend you use weather sealing washers to keep the rain out. Get the screws to the proper length and put the washer directly on the sheet metal (between the bracket and the trailer):
Pop
#10 Self-Tap Screw:
teks-self-drilling-screws-21332-64_1000.jpg

Weatherproof Washer for #10 screw:
teks-flat-washers-21270-64_1000.jpg

Great suggestions. Unfortunately the framing members in the roof are not placed with mounting solar in mind. Very often at least a few of the mount points will miss framing members.

Unless you particularly want to, I would not bother with self sealing screws. Use Dicor self leveling sealer.. it is the "gold standard" for sealing seams and penetrations in the roof on RV's.

[wanderer]

Ok, thanks everyone for you advices and comments. Difinitely i will not move the trailer until not considering all your advices. Thank you again.

[Ampster]

Or 3M 5200 as the OP did.

[Ninety-9 SE-L]

Few things.

For any substantial mounting on a camper or trailer, I recommend screwing directly to the frame members, this is the ONLY way you're going to get structural support. You'll probably want to pre-drill with a carbide bit and then use self-tapping screws.

If you are going just through the sheet metal, I guarantee you will be able to rip the entire panel off with your hand. If you can rip it off with your hand, a mild wind will easily rip it off, too.

If you insist on drilling into the sheet metal, go really slow and stop when you feel a little bit of tension. It's very easy to simply rip a hole that no longer grips the screw.

Lastly, no matter where you plan to drill, if you're putting holes in your roof, I recommend you use weather sealing washers to keep the rain out. Get the screws to the proper length and put the washer directly on the sheet metal (between the bracket and the trailer):

#10 Self-Tap Screw:
teks-self-drilling-screws-21332-64_1000.jpg

Weatherproof Washer for #10 screw:
teks-flat-washers-21270-64_1000.jpg

[PNW_Steve]

I believe you could remove the screws and the 5200 would hold all by itself. Long, long ago I mounted a panel to the forward, downward angled roof of my 5th wheel. 4 brackets, 8 screws I doubt I hit anything structural other than the aluminum skin of the roof itself. Wind wise it was probably the worst place for a panel roof of my 5th wheel. I did use 5200 under the brackets. Even in Arizona with their 70 mph speed limits for all vehicles, the panel has hung in there like a champ. I think I'll try and remove it (still have the 5th wheel, just retired it to a stationary life in Baja) just to see how well it is bonded with that great 3M product

I think that you are probably right but I think that I'll keep the screws just for peace of mind

I hear the voice of reason and experience in your post. It's good to hear a thoughtful reply coming from the voice of experience.

[littleharbor]

I believe you could remove the screws and the 5200 would hold all by itself. Long, long ago I mounted a panel to the forward, downward angled roof of my 5th wheel. 4 brackets, 8 screws I doubt I hit anything structural other than the aluminum skin of the roof itself. Wind wise it was probably the worst place for a panel roof of my 5th wheel. I did use 5200 under the brackets. Even in Arizona with their 70 mph speed limits for all vehicles, the panel has hung in there like a champ. I think I'll try and remove it (still have the 5th wheel, just retired it to a stationary life in Baja) just to see how well it is bonded with that great 3M product

[Ampster]

..........
I did also place a generous application of 3M 5200 on each bracket/roof attachments.

I am comfortable with the security of that installation.

Sounds good. 5200 is good stuff until you want to remove it. LOL

[PNW_Steve]

How about a 70 MPH south wind on a stationary north facing vehicle ?

If the wind is blowing 70mph it is unlikely to go camping.

If it snuck up on me i could do something sneaky like turning the RV around and face it into the wind.

Seriously, I have four mounting brackets screwed into framing members on the forward edge of the panel, each end of the panel has a bracket screwed into framing members and finally the aft edge of the panel has four brackets screwed into the roof but missed framing members, I did also place a generous application of 3M 5200 on each bracket/roof attachments.

I am comfortable with the security of that installation.

[J.P.M.]

I recently installed solar on my travel trailer. The roof framing members were not spaced in a way that I could screw all of the mounting brackets into them.

I sound up placing the forward and end brackets where I could secure to the framing members. The aft brackets are screwed into the galvanized steel roof metal.

I am confident in the strength of the mounting solution unless I were to get an itch to go 70 moh in reverse

How about a 70 MPH south wind on a stationary north facing vehicle ?

[PNW_Steve]

I recently installed solar on my travel trailer. The roof framing members were not spaced in a way that I could screw all of the mounting brackets into them.

I sound up placing the forward and end brackets where I could secure to the framing members. The aft brackets are screwed into the galvanized steel roof metal.

I am confident in the strength of the mounting solution unless I were to get an itch to go 70 moh in reverse

[Mike90250]

I would not rely on a screw into sheet aluminum (or 2 dozen screws) to hold a panel at 85 mph (65 land speed into 20mph headwind) And if some of them are not gripping, I'd say you need a 4" square of plywood under each to give the screw something to bite into and not easily pull out. It's not what I'd call best practice.