Ideas with some hypothetical numbers for extended boon docking in RV

[Treejohnny]

I believe max2K meant that My choice of AGM will cost more than flooded lead acid.

Do you believe that lithium is safer than lead acid?

The reason why I ruled out lithium was the added $5000 cost and the expected term of this project being 1-3 years.

My batteries be in different room than the bedroom, even though I am not sure of the benefits.

[Old_Man]

you came here more prepared than others

If I understand your table correctly both columns AC watts and DC Watts actually mean Watt-hours so your loads demand 1196 + 1334 = 2530 Wh of energy per day. Now if you take 12V 221Ah battery it would have 12 x 221 = 2652 Wh stored. 'Dc amps' line actually means Ah required from 12V battery. So far so good except AGM is probably poor choice for your application due to costs but they will be less messy for sure.

What is your life worth?

Long ago, I was a pilot and light aircraft owner. Not being independently wealthy, I did almost all my own maintenance (supervised, of course) and whenever I balked at coughing up for an expensive part, Doug (The IA who signed my work off in the log) would ask me the same thing: "What the f... is your life worth?" I ask the same question.

Lead-acid batteries, sealed or not, generate explosive gases as well as electricity. I am not interested in sleeping above an explosive gas chamber, so I will eschew lead-acid batteries.

Lithium iron (LifePo4) makes great storage batteries. You can even build your own!!! They still require a BMS (I'm still swimming in that particularly muddy creek) But other than cold-weather applications, I cannot see using anything else. Not telling anyone what to do (as if I could) but providing a different. POV. Not hatin', just sayin'.

[Treejohnny]

I agree, I am not planning on Parallel wiring, I am planning on a 24 volt system.

[Mike90250]

Go with the 4, 6V batteries. Series batteries have no wiring deficiencies. Parallel batteries are difficult.

[Treejohnny]

Ok, time for an update.

I have the bigger truck, the trailer should arrive first part of March! There was a mixup with pricing and it is cheaper to arrange the panels around roof obstacles.

I have decided on Victron 3000 multiplus hybrid inverter, Victron Venus GX system programer, other Victron stuff like battery monitor, MPPT solar charger and temps sensors and what not. I am aiming for 1500 watts of solar, and Honda 2000 genset for bad days.

So the parts that I am looking for help with are the battery system and mounting the solar panels on the roof.

I am leaning towards 24 volt system with a 70amp 24 to 12 volt converter. The batteries will be located below the kitchen sink and will probably be Lifeline. It will depend on the exact dimensions of the available space, either 2-12 volt batteries or 4-6 volt batteries. Does anyone know of issues with this?

The solar panels will be mounted just above the roof suspended from the edges of the trailer. I have seen some extrusions that might be good to support the 8.5' span and some that might be good to mount the panels to, but I am looking for anyone with actual experience with this stuff?

[Brian53713]

Victron offers 5 year warranty. Unless something on that has changed. Great customer service. And tons of quality offerings.

[J.P.M.]

This seems to be a huge undertaking trying to plan out the entire solar system!
This has even progressed as far as trying to see if manufacturer will offset air conditioner units so that I can fit a strip of 40" solar panels along passenger side of roof from front to rear.

All of this to be able to have 200-300ah of usage per day. Am I making this harder than it should be or is this to be expected with solar in an RV trailer?

You're probably not making this harder than it should be. It just isn't as simple as you thought it would be.

[Treejohnny]

This seems to be a huge undertaking trying to plan out the entire solar system!
This has even progressed as far as trying to see if manufacturer will offset air conditioner units so that I can fit a strip of 40" solar panels along passenger side of roof from front to rear.

All of this to be able to have 200-300ah of usage per day. Am I making this harder than it should be or is this to be expected with solar in an RV trailer?

[Treejohnny]

I am leaning towards Victron inverter, solar charger and battery monitor because it looks like it will be the easiest to monitor - maintain long term.
My second choice would be magnum inverter, Morningstar solar charger and triminic battery monitor.
Is there any experience that you have that might help me make best decision for me the first time?

With this size system and mounting panels on the roof I am liking the 60/72 cell solar panels.
Should I expect extra hardware holding the panels in place while driving?
Is it worth the extra brackets for less panels and higher voltage/smaller wire?

[Treejohnny]

Thanks for your response, the Lifeline battery that you found has eluded my initial searches!

Treejohnny

-I have been looking at these and I believe I would need 4 of these to get 300ah useable.
2 x Crown AGM 6 Volt 390 AH in series
https://www.wholesalesolar.com/99601...6v-l16-battery

-Same issue here, I would need 4
2 x Trojan 6 Volt L16-AGM 370AH in series

http://www.trojanbattery.com/product/reliant-l16-agm/

This is probably the closest fit to what I believe my application will be. It looks like I can get 6 of these for same price as 4 of the Crown L16's. So it would be 780AH in Crown vs 630AH in Lifeline.
6 x 2 Volt Lifeline AGM 630AH in series
http://lifelinebatteries.com/product...es/gpl-31t-2v/

[NEOH]

Treejohnny

2 x Crown AGM 6 Volt 390 AH in series
https://www.wholesalesolar.com/99601...6v-l16-battery


2 x Trojan 6 Volt L16-AGM 370AH in series

http://www.trojanbattery.com/product/reliant-l16-agm/

6 x 2 Volt Lifeline AGM 630AH in series
http://lifelinebatteries.com/product...es/gpl-31t-2v/

[Treejohnny]

ewarnerusa - I am glad you shared your experience! It seemed like such a great idea in my head...


I am mostly decided on an ATC toy hauler trailer. It comes with the 50 amp version 4500 series converter by progressive dynamics. It has its own breaker box built in.
-It looks like this should work with my plans.

It also has a Lyght LPT50BRD automatic transfer switch for shore power.
-Will this be sufficient?
-The Honda EU2000 genset would use this too?
-I believe that I will need additional switch for the inverter power to enter into the 4500 converter box?

The (huge) battery area is in the front of the trailer and the converter is in middle of 28' trailer.
-If I use AGM batteries I can have inverter located right above the battery bank?
-I can have MMPT solar charger above battery bank?
-How do I keep DC power to converter/trailer and use inverter?

I am having an issue figuring out the battery bank. I would like to have 300AH useable and 600ish AH bank. With the RV using a bit of 12 volt DC I should have two or four 6 volt batteries to reach 12 volt or two 12 volt in parallel to get even charging and discharging. I have been leaning towards Crown for a manufacturer and the gassing idea would be problematic for my application. Does anyone have a better idea?

I have replumbed and rewired every house I have bought so far but I have zero experience with an RV, please bear with my ignorance.

[ewarnerusa]

I can tell you from experience that you don't want to leave your camper awning out unattended. The wind will pick up and destroy the arms from the sail whipping in the wind. If you can't leave your solar out every day all day, I'd personally say not worth it. Fixed and flat on the roof is the easiest and hands free. It works everyday all day when the sun is shining with no user input. You suffer some inefficiencies from not having ideal angles, but the convenience makes up for it.

[Treejohnny]

Thanks everyone for all of your suggestions and input!

I have been working a bigger truck for the tow veichle....

I have an idea about a solar awning and looking for your thoughts.
If I have a frame that would allow 6

[Mike90250]

LFP batteries are not cheap, and the tech and supporting BMS is not fully mature. If you are able to educate yourself about them, and can manually manage your own bank, that "could" work, I just am not confident with the "turnkey" packages yet, one aspect is lacking on each of them. One forgets the good BMS, someone else has good BMS but wires it wrong, Someone else forgets to set the battery cycles to 20%-80% and report the reduced bank capacity (only 60% of the battery nameplate, because you sacrifice capacity for longevity.)