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Pure sinewave inverter motherboard control board/fet issue?

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  • Pure sinewave inverter motherboard control board/fet issue?

    I have a pure sinewave inverter motherboard that i bought off aliexpress. It is rated for 24vdc input at 110vac 60hz 2000watt output.
    I had it connected up to my transformer and operating for couple months now without any issue and out of the blue some of the fets just burst on the board and it is kind of strange as to how it happen as there was not a surge or short circuit in any form whatsoever.

    Here is the link for it:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/3297...archweb201603_

    When i check the board out of the ( fets. (6) of them got damage so i went ahead and change the 6 of them then hook it up back and when i switch it on i get the standby red led lite, the driver board red lite, the blue motherboard lite and the relay behaving eratic, multiple flashes and clicks from the lites and relay before the standby lite on the inverter turn from red to green and then the blue lite on the motherboard comes on to shows operating ok but yet still i am not getting any output. Sometimes the red lite that is on the control driver board comes on and flashes 3 times and off for 3 secs and then the process repeats and sometimes it does not comes on, playing with the on and off switch for the inverter causes the control driver board red lite to stay on constantly sometimes but still no output. Sometimes even the thermal fan comes on constantly as you turn on the inverter which should not have happen as the heat has not reach the set point as yet.

    The control driver board is EGS002 + IR2110 as you can see in the link below.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001...archweb201603_

    I am wondering if the control driver board is the issue or do i need to also replace the other 2 fets too so in essence all fets should be replace once any amount got damage? Or what else could be the problem ?


  • #2
    Unfortunately, this will not be easy to guess. Real debug will take time, diagrams, and equipment.

    It could be that something in the controller failed, and that triggered a chain of events that led to the FETs blowing, like rogue software or logic gate failure. Or it could be the driver. Or it could be a surge or other outside event that damaged the FETs because they weren't well enough protected. Or it could be that a FET was weak from the factory and picked that instant to fail, taking down other things with it.

    Or it could be a marginal design to start with. I'm seeing 85C capacitors on the board. That's not what I consider high quality. I don't see any safety specification markings (UL, CE, etc.) Are you sure you trust this thing running high power in your home, especially with a history of severe failure?

    If you trust it, then you are probably best off to buy another and completely replace it. Even if you were able to fix it, it may blow up again in another few weeks.

    Sorry, I know that wasn't the answer you wanted to hear.
    7kW Roof PV, APsystems QS1 micros, Nissan Leaf EV

    Comment


    • #3
      FETs and their driver circuits usually need to be matched. or they blow again


      Have you ruled out the relay being bad ? I always go the mechanical parts first. Any contacts sticking ?
      Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
      || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
      || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

      solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
      gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

      Comment


      • #4
        The controller board that I have is the red one and it has a jumper wire running from it to the main board. I realize that I am.not seeing anymore of the red boards on the.net selling. Is just the blue boards I am.seeing and seeing them connected to.the mainboard there is no jumper wire connected to them. So.I am wondering if I replace my red board with the blue board would u suggest that I place the jumper wire on it also? I am.thinking probably the blue board is a upgrade from the red board so therefore the jumper wire is not needed.

        What do u suggest I do?

        Comment


        • #5
          Cut the yellow wire first, or else the trigger sets off the C-12

          Sorry. Wire colors and bored colors are pretty meaningless in electronics. In electronics, folks deal with "Charge Enable" control wire to the "Analog Processor Card".
          And few of us have the same gear as you have, so maybe in your case, their youtube support channel is better than us.
          Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
          || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
          || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

          solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
          gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

          Comment


          • #6
            I got some help on a next Web page.
            Read what I wrote at the bottom of the page and tell me what you think please.

            https://www.fieldlines.com/index.php...,150230.0.html

            Comment


            • #7
              Gibberish. Maybe it will work. Maybe not. High power electronics is generally, not a good place to start your electronics training. Your $. Be safe, stand back, remember the caps on the boards can carry and store a lethal shock for days. Make sure your life insurance is paid up.
              I'm pretty sure you are way in over your head on this. Until you know why things blew the first time, no reason for it not to happen again.
              Remember, $300 worth of FETs will blow faster than most $1 fuses.
              Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
              || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
              || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

              solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
              gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

              Comment


              • #8
                You can try the bandaid proposed. It might work, but I'm very skeptical. Keep in mind that, very often, if the fix were this easy, the manufacturer would have already done it. Those engineers are not stupid. If they were stupid, we don't want their hardware.

                Also, extremely important, as Mike says, there are many safety issues involved. The risks get even higher when you change the design without knowing the original designer's intent. Don't ask me how I know that.

                FYI, 1N4148 is a 100mA diode, not a zener. It will block current flow in one direction and pass in the other direction. Breakdown is >75V. It won't protect the MOSFET. I'm guessing that the purpose of that diode is to allow fast turnoff but slower turnon. Slower turn-on is good because it minimizes ringing and voltage spikes. Fast turn-off is good to shut down immediately when there is an over-current event.

                If you want a better learning experience, trace out the schematic of the controller board, look up the components, and figure out what it is doing. If I can trace out a 10,000 transistor IC and figure out what it is doing, you can trace out a board with 3 ICs.
                7kW Roof PV, APsystems QS1 micros, Nissan Leaf EV

                Comment


                • #9
                  given in mind that my main board has 8 fets. I can add 8 of the TVS Diode on each of the fet gates?

                  Also my control board maybe faulty now with the issue that I mention in the first post. If I do the mod to.it instead of waiting for.the new control.board. Chances are it might fix the no.output issue I am getting from the inverter?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I guess you can try adding TVS diodes. But it seems like putting a bandaid over your finger when you're bleeding from somewhere and can't figure out where the blood is coming from. You don't know why the FETs failed. It could have been unrelated to gate drive. One possibility is that one FET failed, caused damage to the gate drive, which damaged other FETs.

                    Also, be aware that a TVS diode has capacitance. It will change the impedance on the gate. The gate may rise and fall slower or ring more because of the added capacitance, and that could lead to other issues.
                    7kW Roof PV, APsystems QS1 micros, Nissan Leaf EV

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by Mike90250
                      I'm pretty sure you are way in over your head on this.
                      I am with Mike, this is not like fixing your 1977 transistor audio amplifier. Bruce Roe

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        my original board is red colour one so with the new replacement one which is the blue board chances are that it is an upgrade to the red one hence it doesn't require any mods and the resistor that runs from the mainboard to the original red board wouldn't be valid for the blue board so I don't have to solder it to the blue board with or without any modification being done to the board.

                        Comment


                        • #13

                          I recently got the new control board and install it and when i turn on the inverter i am getting the same relay clicking sound and multiply flashes from the led lights on both the main and control board and then afterwards all of that comes to a stop and then i am getting a 4 flash sequence from the led lite on the control board with a 2 sec pause between the 4 flashes and also there is a momentary humming from the transformer which i assume is because some form of dead shorts is happening on the board but when i check the mosfets legs there are no continuity between each legs and my input and output fuse have not been blown.


                          When you just turn on the inverter there is slow rise of the ac voltage to around 38v because the board was set to soft start by default. and then then afterwards the tester starts to beep constantly showing continuity between the output L and N.


                          I am now wondering if i should replace all 8 fets because when the fets got damage, only 6 burst so i replaced 6 instead of 8.

                          Or is it the case that the transformer got burned hence that it why i am getting the humming sound from it every now and then, even thou i don't see or smell any form of burn evidence.

                          What do you suggest i do?

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            You asked for a suggestion. My original suggestions still apply. Either buy another to replace it or buy something better.

                            From personal experience, your chances of fixing it are very small.
                            7kW Roof PV, APsystems QS1 micros, Nissan Leaf EV

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Part 3 of the modification states:

                              "The choke:
                              Find a suitable and large ferrite E core.
                              I used one of these
                              https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/products/8407648/
                              stock no. 840-7648
                              It has a 0.5mm gap. Wiseguy correctly pointed out in another post of yours
                              my incorrect calculations.

                              Other people here have made their own, in different ways, using different cores.

                              We need something like 45uH, and the inductor (or choke) needs to still
                              work with currents well over 100A if you are planning to put 5000W through a 48V inverter"


                              In regards to the above statement. I have already bought a inductor that lowers the idle current that the website where i bought the mainboard recommended to use with the board and i connected it to the mainboard and everything was working quite fine until the mosfets got damage. Do I still need to get the choke as he suggested in part 3 of the modification or i can just use the existing inductor that i have and skip out part 3 of the modification?

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