Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Isolation Transformer and Variac sort of !!!

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Isolation Transformer and Variac sort of !!!

    Well New PV Sys is running prefect. So what's up,I need a Isolation Transformer and variac well sort of! I am building one with 12v battery+750W PMW Inverter+ DROK Motor Control Board AC 110V 4000W Adjustable Voltage Regulator SCR High Power Controller+ Volt meter+dummy load, I Can add voltage to untested equipment with out blowing up house and myself some of these outputs are 600V Cost me $20.00 for DROK had all the rest just hanging around. Tell what you think. By the way it works I can pull 50v ac to test with no problems.
    Last edited by Paul Land; 01-23-2019, 09:54 PM.

  • #2
    Originally posted by Paul Land View Post
    Well New PV Sys is running prefect. So what's up,I need a Isolation Transformer and variac well sort of! I am building one with 12v battery+750W PMW Inverter+ DROK Motor Control Board AC 110V 4000W Adjustable Voltage Regulator SCR High Power Controller+ Volt meter+dummy load, I Can add voltage to untested equipment with out blowing up house and myself some of these outputs are 600V Cost me $20.00 for DROK had all the rest just hanging around. Tell what you think. By the way it works I can pull 50v ac to test with no problems.
    > Tell what you think

    I think its gibberish. But if your house is not on fire, I guess it works.

    What you list is a bunch of brand names, and I have no idea of the actual function of the stuff. No commas, so I can't tell if you have a motor control board for 4000w or a 4000w regulator or dummy load. SCR's will generate a whole bunch of electronic noise. And you can't possibly get 4000w from any normal household circuit

    Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

    Comment


    • #3
      Originally posted by Mike90250 View Post

      > Tell what you think

      I think its gibberish. But if your house is not on fire, I guess it works.

      What you list is a bunch of brand names, and I have no idea of the actual function of the stuff. No commas, so I can't tell if you have a motor control board for 4000w or a 4000w regulator or dummy load. SCR's will generate a whole bunch of electronic noise. And you can't possibly get 4000w from any normal household circuit
      Thanks mike I'm just going for voltage input 0-118v to electronics for testing proposes only. watts are minimal. tested it on old vacume tube SW Radio with 45v its good for adding controled current to the vacume tube heaters. And yes its a SRC motor control board with a cheap husky 750 watt inverter working off old 12v batt to be isolated from houses electric panel. I am not recommending any one to do this. But its a lot safer then plugging a 50 year untested old radio in wall socket.

      Comment


      • #4
        For testing old radios, a series wired light bulb socket, with a 100w bulb is a winner. The bulb is you current limiter, have a couple bulbs to swap in, and when you are happy, flip a switch to bypass the bulb and apply full power.
        FuseSaver.jpg
        Attached Files
        Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
        || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
        || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

        solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
        gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

        Comment


        • #5
          I might apply B+ directly with a variable, ​​​current limiting supply, watching the A meter,
          tubes cold while I turn it up.

          Then I use the variac plugged into a watt meter. Bruce Roe

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by Mike90250 View Post
            For testing old radios, a series wired light bulb socket, with a 100w bulb is a winner. The bulb is you current limiter, have a couple bulbs to swap in, and when you are happy, flip a switch to bypass the bulb and apply full power.
            FuseSaver.jpg
            Mike your diagram what i was using but I figured why not re-purpose some solar stuff i was given by customers when installing PV. I have some free 8yr old working 6v Tro-105s and cheap inverter so i can isolate system from homes service panel with SRC control and 1 dummy load (Motor) Instead of swapping loads total cost $20.00. Now I have a switch for 40w, 75w and 100w to full 118v. it works great on old stuff I would not use on new electronics just pre-1970s

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by bcroe View Post
              I might apply B+ directly with a variable, ​​​current limiting supply, watching the A meter,
              tubes cold while I turn it up.

              Then I use the variac plugged into a watt meter. Bruce Roe
              Yup I just have a Profit problem with AliExpress there variacs average price is $10-20 bucks Resale here in U.S. is $50-$100 for cheap Chinese junk. My local University has electro-lab equipment auctions while i wait for one. This will do the job in repairing old Heathkit electronics. B+ on my page is better then B-anned. Its just fun utilizing old dust bin solar stuff.
              Last edited by Paul Land; 01-24-2019, 03:34 PM.

              Comment


              • #8
                There is a lot of tube gear still around here, that is all there was when I started. Plenty of
                Heathkit, I make some effort to keep everything operational. One thing I do NOT like is all
                those zip cords, messy and dangerous. So most get converted to IEC modules, which can
                provide the safety ground, convenient removable cord, fuse, and even lighted switch in one
                module. Here is an example where a really messy internal AC arrangement was entirely
                cleaned up for this high quality, still useful, but ancient unit.

                I also try to have a pilot light on everything, either red on the panel or LEDs into the
                meters. If I turn off the lab light and see no pilot lights, I know everything is off.

                With patience, I have gotten a lot of variable transformers off Evil Bay. Bruce Roe

                90651.JPG
                Last edited by bcroe; 01-24-2019, 03:47 PM.

                Comment

                Working...
                X