Tips on what to add to solar installation contract.

[midpitts]

Can anyone give me insight into the things we should be sure to include into this contract to protect ourselves as best we can? Seems like something should be there that covers damage to our home should the roof leek because of their work. Any ideas on wording or other terms to include?

[DanS26]

Best tip I can give you is to see a lawyer........they get paid to protect your interests in contractual arrangements. Find one with experience with solar installation contracts.

[J.P.M.]

Since you're asking:

When I did my PV project I had a Request for Proposal (RFP) that was ~ 4 pages of text and technical requirements that went to 4 potential bidders. One page was bidding requirements including how to handle exceptions/alternates to the proposal, bid deadlines and required project scope and schedule. The rest dealt with specific material requirements, and code conformance, dispute resolution and payment terms.

Of the 4 vendors I sent the RFP to, 3 were established, local electrical contractors. The 4th potential bidder I knew to be the lowest price vendor of what I wanted to buy. I intended to use that bid as benchmark in my negotiations, while still giving that vendor a shot at the work if I deemed the bang and quality of work for the long term buck to be the best of all the bids.

Since I'd already specified the material, array sizing and a lot of details, it was mostly a matter of vendors quoting what I requested and then having them offering alternates to my RFP.

I got 3 serious responses, including one from the low price leader, and one bid from one of the established vendors who blew me off with a phone quote. At the end of bid eval. and negotiations, I got more than I asked wanted for ~ $0.05/Watt less than the low price benchmark from a quality outfit.

From the outset, bidders knew what they were quoting to material and contract wise. They never knew what price I'd bite on or what other vendors s were bidding. I treated them as professionals and didn't waste their time.

With that tale of woe in mind, respectful suggestions:

Buy and read a copy of "Solar Power Your Home for Dummies".
Then, set goals and decide what you want to accomplish.
Get familiar with PVWatts, and size up a system.
Learn how you are charged for electricity and how that's likely to change in the future.
Use established and reputable local electrical contractors who have sold PV for at least 5 years.
Do not rely on vendors or others with skin in the game for answers. Know the answers to your questions before you ask. You'll learn a lot more that way.
Knowledge is power. Get more of the first and use what it imparts of the second to avoid getting screwed. After the read and the sizing, come back here and ask questions to fill in knowledge blanks.

Remember:

Vendors make money by putting equipment of your property, not always by making it the most long term cost effective way to lower an electric bill.
PV, BTW, and in spite of all the hype you've heard, is about the least cost effective way to lower an electric bill. The most cost effective is to simply turn stuff off. The more knowledgeable you get, the more obvious that will become.
If you do decide on PV, go for most bang for the long term buck rather than simply low initial price. Most folks do just the opposite
Vendor quality is as, or more important than material quality. PV has become pretty much a commodity and an appliance.
Remember, everything is negotiable but squeezing a vendor too hard can be counterproductive.
Lastly, if a roof mount, get your roof inspected/serviced. PV will last a long time. Give the roof under it the highest probability of lasting as long. Roof repairs and chasing leaks under an array are disruptive and hard to get right, not to mention expensive. Consider possible remedial repairs as cheap insurance.

Welcome to the neighborhood and the forum of few(er) illusions.

Take what you want of the above. Scrap the rest.

[ButchDeal]

On the tech side the p300 optimizer is discontinued and replaced by the p320
you should specify the solaredge SE7600H to get the hdwave version of the inverter as well.

[Mike90250]

consider a time limit to pass final inspection, tie progress payments to inspection milestones. you dont want 3 pallets of gear dropped off, and then wait 8 months for work to start.

[AzRoute66]

Perhaps J.P.M. could post a copy of his RFP. I have a feeling that it would cover everything the 'average Joe' could think of, and perhaps a bit more.

[J.P.M.]

Perhaps J.P.M. could post a copy of his RFP. I have a feeling that it would cover everything the 'average Joe' could think of, and perhaps a bit more.

It probably covered most of what I needed, but I doubt most folks would get that involved. I'll root around here and see if I can find it, but after 4 1/2 yrs. and 2 computer changeouts, I'm not too positive on finding it. Will advise w/in 24 hrs.

On a slightly different but somewhat related issue: One of my contract requirements all the vendors accepted with less angst than I thought, and as a comment to Mike's post, I had a requirement in my RFQ that the vendor would pick up my entire electric bill between the agreed upon written completion date at contract signing and actual completion date if the completion date slipped. The successful vendor finished 1 day early.

[midpitts]

On the tech side the p300 optimizer is discontinued and replaced by the p320
you should specify the solaredge SE7600H to get the hdwave version of the inverter as well.

Thanks! I did bring this to the installers attention and they upgraded the contract to these components.

[midpitts]

consider a time limit to pass final inspection, tie progress payments to inspection milestones. you dont want 3 pallets of gear dropped off, and then wait 8 months for work to start.

Will do this for sure! Thanks!

[midpitts]

Has anyone had or heard of problems with installation on a hip roof with Architectural Fiberglass shingles? The home was built in 2005 and has the original shingles. I had a building inspector come inspect the roof and he said it was in far better shape than most homes he sees with that age of shingles. No curling edges or balding, yet Anyways, my concern is the penetrations leaking and of course not being found until drywall is wet from the leak or mold/termites because of wet wood.. Have you heard of issues like this happening?

[Mike90250]

I re-roofed as part of my roof install, and had roofer and solar contractors work together. you have over 10 years on shingles, they are likely brittle and can fail from all the walking over them

[J.P.M.]

Perhaps J.P.M. could post a copy of his RFP. I have a feeling that it would cover everything the 'average Joe' could think of, and perhaps a bit more.

Looked around today and didn't come up with it. Must have deep sixed it.

[J.P.M.]

Has anyone had or heard of problems with installation on a hip roof with Architectural Fiberglass shingles? The home was built in 2005 and has the original shingles. I had a building inspector come inspect the roof and he said it was in far better shape than most homes he sees with that age of shingles. No curling edges or balding, yet Anyways, my concern is the penetrations leaking and of course not being found until drywall is wet from the leak or mold/termites because of wet wood.. Have you heard of issues like this happening?

There will be something like 1 to 2 times as many new roof penetrations as panels. That's one reason I sat on the roof and watched. I too had the section of roof under the array repapered and some other needed but not critical repairs done. I also coordinated the roofer and solar vendor for post setting and double flashing.

Regardless of the type of roof, getting it inspected/serviced is cheap insurance as is double flashing which, as a method, has stood the test of time.