PV Output Circuit Voltage Drop Requirements

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  • Farlander
    Junior Member
    • May 2017
    • 19

    PV Output Circuit Voltage Drop Requirements

    Planning to run 15kW PV into four outback flexmax80 charge controllers. The home runs from the array combiners to the house are about 200 feet. I was hoping to get by with a #8 awg copper thwn-2, but I end up with over 7% voltage drop. Unfortunately there's 15 strings of 3 modules each, operating voltage about 100.

    Ampacity of #8 looks ok when using the Isc @ NOCT and correcting for underground temps, but the Vdrop of 7%-8% is bothersome. Will that raise current in the circuit? Is there an NEC requirement for PV output voltage drop? It wouldn't be bad to shed some volts and power over the home run, the system will be overcharging batts as is.

    Advice and suggestions appreciated,

    This free voltage drop calculator estimates the voltage drop of an electrical circuit based on the wire size, distance, and anticipated load current.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by Farlander; 11-05-2017, 11:50 PM.
  • AzRoute66
    Solar Fanatic
    • Jul 2017
    • 446

    #2
    Originally posted by Farlander
    Will that raise current in the circuit?
    It will not.

    Is there an NEC requirement for PV output voltage drop?
    There is not.

    Comment

    • kb58
      Junior Member
      • Sep 2017
      • 96

      #3
      "Less voltage drop is better" from an electrical stand point, but economically, minimum investment over 20 years will dictate a smaller wire size than what's most efficient.
      Last edited by kb58; 11-06-2017, 10:20 AM.

      Comment

      • Mike90250
        Moderator
        • May 2009
        • 16020

        #4
        try running the calc with #2 aluminum wire (or maybe #4)
        usual goal is < 3% loss

        If you have not bought gear, look at the 600vdc solar charge controllers (Morningstar & Schneider) or the high voltage Midnight. higher voltage, fewer controllers, less runs.

        Aluminum is safe, make long runs, wired directly to breakers, don try to splice aluminum. Use the #8 copper for the short interconnects, size breakers for the least wire.
        Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
        || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
        || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

        solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
        gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

        Comment

        • BackwoodsEE
          Solar Fanatic
          • Jun 2017
          • 217

          #5
          I second Mike's suggestion to look into the 600V charge controllers. I'm delighted with how my two Morningstar TS-MPPT-600-60 charge controllers are working with 150 feet of a pair of 10 AWG conductors for each of two strings. I used 10x9 tray cable with 600V THHN conductors and an outer jacket that gives the whole thing a direct burial rating. Four pairs of conductors (two spare pairs for a future array) and an EGC.

          So far the most I've seen it produce is 5 kW, but I'm expecting 6 kW on a regular basis once the sun starts shining again here in gloomy WA.

          Comment

          • Farlander
            Junior Member
            • May 2017
            • 19

            #6
            I would have preferred to go with a 600V controller(s), but the customer was keen on the the larger capacity of the radian inverter, and it's what I'm familiar with. Ultimately between Schneider and Outback it came down to Outbacks' online interface - I can control and tweak every setting remotely, whereas with Schneider, you need a dedicated VPN with port forwarding. The OB Flexmax100 300V max is set to be out soon I think, not soon enough for me it looks like.

            In regards to the voltage drop, in a normal branch circuit, does a voltage drop correlate to amp increase? My electrician was arguing that we should be testing amp load at the source rather than at the load, and I told him the amps through the circuit would be the same at either end.

            Comment

            • Mike90250
              Moderator
              • May 2009
              • 16020

              #7
              Originally posted by Farlander
              ..... My electrician was arguing that we should be testing amp load at the source rather than at the load, and I told him the amps through the circuit would be the same at either end.
              fire him before he damages something/someone

              Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
              || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
              || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

              solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
              gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

              Comment

              • AzRoute66
                Solar Fanatic
                • Jul 2017
                • 446

                #8
                Originally posted by Farlander
                In regards to the voltage drop, in a normal branch circuit, does a voltage drop correlate to amp increase? My electrician was arguing that we should be testing amp load at the source rather than at the load, and I told him the amps through the circuit would be the same at either end.
                A voltage drop indicates the presence of amps, not an 'amp increase'.

                In a typical branch circuit, the sum of the load amperages will equal the source amperage since most loads are wired in parallel. In most cases the source amperage will not be equal to any individual load amperage. If you are talking about a device with a dedicated circuit, the amperage should be the same at the source and load. There are many benefits of checking amperage at the source, including detecting unanticipated paths.

                Comment

                • sensij
                  Solar Fanatic
                  • Sep 2014
                  • 5074

                  #9
                  Originally posted by AzRoute66
                  A voltage drop indicates the presence of amps, not an 'amp increase'.
                  A load with a fixed power requirement will draw more amps from a lower voltage source than from a higher voltage source. Maybe that fact planted a seed of confusion in the electrician?
                  CS6P-260P/SE3000 - http://tiny.cc/ed5ozx

                  Comment

                  • AzRoute66
                    Solar Fanatic
                    • Jul 2017
                    • 446

                    #10
                    Originally posted by sensij
                    Maybe that fact planted a seed of confusion in the electrician?
                    I suspect the electrician is just fine.

                    Comment

                    • BackwoodsEE
                      Solar Fanatic
                      • Jun 2017
                      • 217

                      #11
                      Originally posted by Farlander
                      I would have preferred to go with a 600V controller(s), but the customer was keen on the the larger capacity of the radian inverter, and it's what I'm familiar with.
                      The Outback Radian inverter is what I've got. Works just fine with my Morningstar CCs. They communicate exclusively via a 48V bidirectional analog interface, i.e., big red and black wires going to a common battery.

                      Comment

                      • Mike90250
                        Moderator
                        • May 2009
                        • 16020

                        #12
                        Originally posted by BackwoodsEE
                        The Outback Radian inverter is what I've got. Works just fine with my Morningstar CCs. They communicate exclusively via a 48V bidirectional analog interface, i.e., big red and black wires going to a common battery.
                        And that's a splendid wrap-up. There is no need for brand loyalty. Any well programmed gear with correct setpoints (ya gotta look up the specs for your batteries anyway - before you program anything) is just going to work fine with other gear. Adding Li-Ion to the mix means you need a couple more decimal points of accuracy, but it all boils down to basic electrical measurements and understanding how things work, how they fail and you being the brains behind it all.

                        Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
                        || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
                        || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

                        solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
                        gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

                        Comment

                        • Bob Johnson
                          Junior Member
                          • Nov 2017
                          • 2

                          #13
                          [QUOTE=sensij;n365985]

                          A load with a fixed power requirement will draw more amps from a lower voltage source than from a higher voltage source. Maybe that fact planted a seed of confusion in the electrician?

                          But if the voltage drops at the load, then power is being lost in the circuit due to its resistance. The higher the resistance the more the voltage drop at the load end compared with the source and consequently less current . So More resistance = less Volts x Amps therefore power loss. A good idea to measure the voltage at both ends. The current has to be the same. or something is shorted or open circuit. The only variable is the resistance of the circuit between source and load.

                          Comment

                          • Bob Johnson
                            Junior Member
                            • Nov 2017
                            • 2

                            #14
                            A question I seem to get conflicting answers to all with logical explanations as to why! Can I drive a grid tie inverter with a sine wave inverter as a reference source or will the grid tie inverter try and dump excess power back to the reference source and fry it? Naturally the grid is not connected !!!

                            Comment

                            • Mike90250
                              Moderator
                              • May 2009
                              • 16020

                              #15
                              Originally posted by Bob Johnson
                              A question I seem to get conflicting answers to all with logical explanations as to why! Can I drive a grid tie inverter with a sine wave inverter as a reference source or will the grid tie inverter try and dump excess power back to the reference source and fry it? Naturally the grid is not connected !!!
                              Generally, NO. One of the tests a GT inverter makes is a Line Impedance Test. Specifically, to see if the "grid" is real or fake. Another test is Frequency stability, a good inverter will pass the test at 60.000 Hz, but a cheap generator that wobbles around 59.5 - 60.5 Hz will fail to qualify
                              Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
                              || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
                              || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

                              solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
                              gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

                              Comment

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