So i have 10 300 watt panels on each string. I can get 10 gauge solid copper wire for free. Could I crimp/solder MC4 to solid core 10 Ga. 60 ft. from pv to inverter?
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Wire from PV to inverter.
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i think you have to use split bolts or splice blocks , since it's outdoorsPowerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
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Originally posted by jagjohn2000 View PostThere are mc4 on the end of each panel now. They are outdoors?
Here is a picture of my weather proof combiner box. I used wires with MC4 connectors on one end and terminal or fuse blocks on the other.
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Originally posted by jagjohn2000 View PostSo I can't just crimp an mc4 to a 60 foot length of wire through conduit to inverter? So mc4 from pv to my crimped mc4 through weathertight fitting in conduit to inverterComment
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MC-4 contact.jpgMC-4.jpg The dies for MC-4 crimps are not solid wire friendly, they appear to be intended for stranded wire being the point in the die that imbeds the contact into the strands. If used on solid wire it looks like you wouldn't be able to compress the die fully. MC-4 crimping tool.jpg2.2kw Suntech mono, Classic 200, NEW Trace SW4024Comment
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Originally posted by jagjohn2000 View PostSo I can't just crimp an mc4 to a 60 foot length of wire through conduit to inverter? So mc4 from pv to my crimped mc4 through weathertight fitting in conduit to inverter
CS6P-260P/SE3000 - http://tiny.cc/ed5ozxComment
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Originally posted by sensij View Post
The type of wire you are using affects the answer to this question. At least some length of wire is exposed, from the crimped MC4 connector to the weathertight fitting, which limits you to PV Wire. 60 ft of PV wire is kind of expensive, which is why most choose to transition to THWN-2 in a j-box for the run to the inverter.
IMO wire is the cheapest component to a solar project so why skimp. Do it right the first time or come back in a couple of months and re do it after you put out the fire.Comment
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Originally posted by SunEagle View Post
Based on some of the input from people the weak point was the terminations (or should I say failed connections) that were found by the home owner or AHJ during the inspection. The installer failed to use the proper crimping tool to probably save money and ended up doing a very poor job.
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Gauge-S...dp/B01D7VBICM/CS6P-260P/SE3000 - http://tiny.cc/ed5ozxComment
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Originally posted by sensij View Post
Yeah, for just a few connections, avoiding the cost of the crimping tool and buying pre-terminated wire seems like an easy call to me. That doesn't really affect the decision to run PV wire all the way to the inverter, or to transition to THWN-2 first though.
https://www.amazon.com/Black-Gauge-S...dp/B01D7VBICM/
Whether or not the MC4 can be crimped onto solid wire is up to that manufacturer. I doubt many of them test with it, because it's very uncommon.Comment
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