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  • Cute Ammeters

    Best adjective I can think of; they're 'cute', cheap and effective. I have them inside and out so to constantly eavesdrop on how voltages and usage look.

    20170311_134928.jpg

  • #2
    TX I am not sure I understand you my friend. You will spend money on stuff you really do not need, but will not spend money to make your system safe and effective. Me thinks your priorities need work.
    MSEE, PE

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    • #3
      Originally posted by -TX- View Post
      Best adjective I can think of; they're 'cute', cheap and effective. I have them inside
      and out so to constantly eavesdrop on how voltages and usage look.
      The AC power is less than the product of the V and I; I take that to mean it takes power factor into account. Bruce Roe

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      • #4
        Here's my "cute" system. I use this setup to monitor my generator output during utility outages to balance the split phase loads. Frequency on top, then Phase A, then Phase B.

        Gen Monitor System.JPG

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Sunking View Post
          TX I am not sure I understand you my friend. You will spend money on stuff you really do not need, but will not spend money to make your system safe and effective. Me thinks your priorities need work.
          me thinks you need to understand the restrictions of an RV

          edit: To add, as soon as new gear is received, that will be the 3rd time I will redo my battery box based on board recommendations. That stuff I'm willing to change, the entire scope of my setup I cannot. All equipment was researched fairly well, especially on size. So, perfect can't do here, I can only get as close as possible.
          Last edited by -TX-; 03-11-2017, 09:52 PM.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by DanS26 View Post
            Here's my "cute" system. I use this setup to monitor my generator output during utility outages to balance the split phase loads. Frequency on top, then Phase A, then Phase B.

            Gen Monitor System.JPG
            Sorry, but 'cute' demands it cost as much as a 12 pack. I'm gonna say yours looks professional instead.

            Anyway, my cute one's are available on Amazon and I'd recommend the DC one highly, and not yet the AC because I added it today. Very simple and the one shown is running on 25' of CAT5. For the voltage drop complaints, it displays the exact same info as the one at my bank.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by -TX- View Post

              Sorry, but 'cute' demands it cost as much as a 12 pack. I'm gonna say yours looks professional instead.

              Anyway, my cute one's are available on Amazon and I'd recommend the DC one highly, and not yet the AC because I added it today. Very simple and the one shown is running on 25' of CAT5. For the voltage drop complaints, it displays the exact same info as the one at my bank.
              What type of circuit protection did you use, if any?

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              • #8
                For the ammeter? none, the fuse would cost as much.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by -TX- View Post
                  For the ammeter? none, the fuse would cost as much.
                  And, now, I know which wire is going to develop frayed insulation, short, and start a fire.
                  Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
                  || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
                  || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

                  solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
                  gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

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                  • #10
                    You really think it's necessary to fuse a very (very, very) low draw meter that's connected to a 20a circuit breaker? I thought it was overkill using 16 gauge to connect it.

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by -TX- View Post
                      You really think it's necessary to fuse a very (very, very) low draw meter that's connected to a 20a circuit breaker? I thought it was overkill using 16 gauge to connect it.
                      OK the largest fuse you can use on a 16 AWG wire is 10 amps. So you just built yourself another fire trap.

                      At least you used a OCPD. Many a fool would just use raw battery. Keep in mind solar panels are not the source of energy per se. The battery is the source. A shorted battery can deliver 10 to 1000 times it Amp Hour capacity. In other words a 100 AH dead bolt fault can have a minimum of 1000 amps or more of current. That would vaporize a 16 AWG copper conductor say it got pinched , or the insulation got rubbed through every day driving.

                      TX I sure would hate to see you learn the hard way, and the way you are cutting corners is sure asking for it. I mean heck dude you will not even pick up a local phone book to find an electrician to make you battery cables.

                      Sorry but we cannot help anyone who is not willing to help themselves.
                      Last edited by Sunking; 03-12-2017, 03:17 PM.
                      MSEE, PE

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by -TX- View Post
                        You really think it's necessary to fuse a very (very, very) low draw meter that's connected to a 20a circuit breaker? I thought it was overkill using 16 gauge to connect it.
                        Those are the MOST important lines to fuse. That cute little Bayite monitor that is taking milliamps? It can short like any other device. How long do you think it will take for 15 amps flowing through your monitor to start it smoking (or burning?)

                        And of all the devices in your system, which are the most likely to go? The UL-listed inverter, or the $17.99 Chinese monitor built as cheaply as possible?

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                        • #13
                          I don't know the precise amperage it draws but It's minuscule. It gets its amperage data via a remote ring, sorta like a clamp on ammeter. Amazingly accurate.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by -TX- View Post
                            I don't know the precise amperage it draws but It's minuscule. It gets its amperage data via a remote ring, sorta like a clamp on ammeter. Amazingly accurate.
                            You are missing the point. It is not the normal line current the device uses that is the problem. Its the live battery on the wires if there is a fault like a pinched wire,, or the insulation wears out and comes in contact with any part of the frame you will get hundreds of amps flowing.


                            Try this experiment. Take a small like like 22 AWG.. connect one end to the battery positive term post, then touch the other end to your RV frame and see what happens. At minimum you have have a nasty burn on your burn on your fingers and a permanent branded scar to live with.

                            MSEE, PE

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                            • #15
                              Ok?

                              Hey! I insist on an attaboy!

                              20170312_165036.jpg
                              Last edited by -TX-; 03-12-2017, 07:05 PM.

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