How to cook wiring

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  • solarix
    Super Moderator
    • Apr 2015
    • 1415

    How to cook wiring

    Hey, this is Greg with another episode of the "Solarix Go Solar" show.....
    Want to share what I found yesterday when called out to a solar install that an out of town installer did eight years ago. This was back in the early days of solar around here and this homeowner had pooled four of their neighbors together to get a good deal on grid-tied solar. Back then they each spent about $30k of which the local utility paid about half in the "once upon a time" rebate program to incentivize solar.... Anyway, the Fronius inverter was kicked off with AC voltage errors. They had had problems with this inverter in the past and it had been replaced under warranty once so everyone assumed more Fronius problems. They had called out the utility lineman to check the grid power and of course, he couldn't find anything wrong on their side.
    First thing I noticed was that the leg to leg voltage at the inverter was only about 45Vac while the leg to neutral was a good 120 for both. Voltage at the solar breaker measured fine. Pulled the dedicated solar meter (required by the local utility here) and voltage is bad - so that points to the "photovoltaic utility disconnect" box. Unfortunately, the utility here takes the position that the "evil" solar power is going to be present (even when off) on the unguarded side of the switch blades and puts a padlock on these disconnect boxes for osha safety purposes.... Had to wait a day for a lineman to come unlock the box and the attached picture is what we found.
    Can't really tell what exactly the installer did wrong in terminating the black conductor, but either did not get the screw tight or had a bit of insulation pinched in the terminal. I've never seen a wire cooked this bad though. This 8ga wire was literally oxidized to the point it just fell apart at the slightest touch. Like how ashes can hold their shape even though totally burned. I figure this wire had been slow cooking for its whole eight year life.
    I worry about this kind of thing with my guys. If wire terminals don't get properly done, the circuit can work but have too much contact resistance, heat up and sit there and burn for a long time. Inspectors generally do not catch this kind of thing and its why there is just no getting around hiring a good electrician. (not some nation-wide franchise that hires a lot of newbie kids and pressures them into going fast). My solution? We just purchased a FLIR camera and am using it to inspect all our terminations.
    Oh yes, also found they had put a GE breaker for the solar circuit in a Siemens box - maybe they thought that was OK because the A/C circuit next to it was also a misfitting GE breaker however that was a 40A breaker on a 10ga circuit..... I won't mention who this installer was, however they refused to come fix their workmanship failings saying that their 2-year warranty was up.... "The aftertaste of poor quality lasts a lot longer than the sweet taste of a low price"
    That's all for now - see you next time on the Go Solar show!

    Burned AC Disconnect.JPG
    BSEE, R11, NABCEP, Chevy BoltEV, >3000kW installed
  • Sunking
    Solar Fanatic
    • Feb 2010
    • 23301

    #2
    Actually that is not too bad. It gets a lot worse lik emelted wire or terminals. I agree with your assessment but may or may not have had anything to do with how tight the installer made the terminal screw. Looks like a typical Mechanical Pressure Connector failure compounded by not using an Anti-Oxidant on the wire skinner and terminal. What I see is just time, environmental elements, minimum equipment requirements, and lack of proper wire termination. Pretty easy fix from what I can see. .
    MSEE, PE

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    • NukeEngineer
      Solar Fanatic
      • Sep 2017
      • 145

      #3
      I had the beginnings of this on one of my two disconnects. It was just a few days after completing my install, on a partly cloudy day. I was standing at my inverter area, watching power production as clouds would go by.

      I noticed that when a cloud would pass by, and power output would go from 1500ish up to 5000+ watts (per inverter), I heard a noise that sounded like leaves rustling. The noise would quiet down after a few seconds at the higher power. Next cloud... same noise.

      Identified sound coming from my upper disconnect. Turned off upper inverter, sound immediately stops. Got my noncontact thermometer, read 132F on one of the terminals and the copper wire there was obviously heated.

      Thought maybe was a bad termination, so I cut off the discolored copper, confirmed torque on terminal, closed box, and was sure that was it. Next cloud... same noise!

      I looked at that box again, and it looked like the cylinder with the blades was not fully seated into the on position. Pushed it in with a screwdriver, power back up, and noise is gone.

      I had remembered that on one of the two disconnects (Siemens 60a, unfused), after throwing it to on, the handle had just a little play in it at the on position, and this was that disconnect.

      Remember, electricity should, for the most part, be quiet when it's "happy".
      https://pvoutput.org/list.jsp?sid=54099

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