Originally posted by foo1bar
View Post
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Beginner Working on a Self Install
Collapse
X
-
-
Originally posted by bcroe View PostThe 2 elbows were not put on until the wires were pulled in place, which made the pull much easier.
"raceways, other than busways, or exposed raceways having hinged covers, shall be installed as a complete run between outlet, junction, or splicing points prior to the installation of conductors."
Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by bcroe View Post
The pull here was 230 feet. The 2 elbows were not put on until the wires were pulled in place, which
made the pull much easier. Bruce RoeLeave a comment:
-
Originally posted by brant2000 View PostI got my unistrut and micros all installed. I'm going to pull my wire this
evening....I hope everything with the pull goes fine. I'll be pulling 4 - #8 XHHW's through 1-1/4" sch.
40. It's about a 100' pull with an elbow on each end.
made the pull much easier. Bruce RoeLeave a comment:
-
Originally posted by foo1bar View Post
I'd say just buy a quart of wire lube ($8) and just use it.
And of course make sure you have a good connection to your pull string.Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by max2k View Postif it presents any problem try to use wire pull wax
And of course make sure you have a good connection to your pull string. It would suck to have to pull your wires back because your pull string disconnected from your wires as you were coming up the last elbow.
Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by brant2000 View PostI got my unistrut and micros all installed. I'm going to pull my wire this evening....I hope everything with the pull goes fine. I'll be pulling 4 - #8 XHHW's through 1-1/4" sch. 40. It's about a 100' pull with an elbow on each end.Leave a comment:
-
I got my unistrut and micros all installed. I'm going to pull my wire this evening....I hope everything with the pull goes fine. I'll be pulling 4 - #8 XHHW's through 1-1/4" sch. 40. It's about a 100' pull with an elbow on each end. IMG_20170911_184327022.jpg
Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by ButchDeal View Post
Cat level and shielding have little to do with it. It is a timing issue for gigabit Ethernet. Twisted pair gigE is not able to handle greater distance due to timing factors in the low level protocol. Ne level of shielding is going to help that, but 10 Mbs will handle longer distances easily. I have done it with crappy telephone dry pairs.
Also hub would be a bad choice, you need a switch.Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by wienerdog View PostNice looking setup. Just wondering how much do you have in the mounting frame so far?Leave a comment:
-
"Can I install a secondary router/device to act as a "wireless bridge" in my garage, and run cat5/6 out from that device? I'm sure the WiFi signal in my garage is strong enough."
Absolutely you can put a low cost wireless device in the garage and put it into bridge mode and run the CAT from that to your system. Heck over 90' you don't even need to run CAT, just put one of those in your garage and another at the system (in a PVC box big enough to give it some airflow) and it will work fine. Or just run the cat and have one of those cheepo sub $20 gigabit 5 port switches at the ground mount (in some sort of protective box). Lots of ways to do this to keep the cost down. Main thing is to do a code compliant box at the ground mount to give you the 120V that is safe from shocking anyone and that won't short out in a heavy rain and kill the comms on the multigates $$$.
If you want to go overboard it could look something like this (about $140 just for the NEMA 4x box plus the stuff in it)
https://www.flickr.com/photos/149650...3/36245425043/
Nice looking framework!Leave a comment:
-
Nice looking setup. Just wondering how much do you have in the mounting frame so far?Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by peakbagger View PostA hint when using uni strut to attach the panels to the PV panel frames. Order some black HDPE .060 thick sheeting from McMaster Carr. Use a utility knife to cut out squares slightly larger then the interface between the unistrut flanges and PV frame. Drill a hole in the center of the square slightly larger than the bolt then cut a slot out to the edge. Make up a pile of them based on the number of connections. Now bolt the panels to the frame but leave the bolts loose until you get everything lined up and square. Now slide the square plastic washers between the frame and unistrut. The bolt hole centers the square in place. Now snug up the bolts. Lot easier and longer lasting then paint. I tried making them without the slot but it adds another degree of freedom in making the initial bolt connection, its a heck of lot easier to add after the fact.The black HDPE is much more UV resistant than the white.
here, between treated wood and 6061 aluminum. The hardware is all 18-8 stainless; steel will only be
removable by breaking after a short time. Bruce RoeLeave a comment:
-
Originally posted by brant2000 View Post[...] It's just a rough guess, but I'd expect that shading will only occur on about 25% of the array less than 25% of the time, so think the effect will be <10% of my expected production.
Enter your configuration and it will printout a solar path chart for the year. Sketch the horizon on the chart and you will know at what time of day, during what months you will experience shading. Generally you will want to do two charts, one for each of the lower two corners of the array. The methods of sighting and transcribing the horizon are many, but such simple tools as a protractor and a compass will suffice in the hands of an engineer. There are also tools out there that can be bought or rented, one of the most popular is the easily google-able 'Solar Pathfinder.' I developed a methodology stitching together a 180+ degree panoramic picture from a leveled tripod, then overlaying a transparent background solar path chart that would probably be overkill for anyone but a hobbyist, but again quite reproducible by an engineer.
As you can see, my ridiculously tall chimney gives me issues until 10:00 AM from November through January. That tree to the east will undergo major modification if I ever install a ground array there. Obviously, the view from the western corner of the [proposed] array shows the house and chimney as negligible, while that block wall in the west comes into play during the summer months.
Dec30.jpg
Last edited by AzRoute66; 09-05-2017, 04:41 PM.Leave a comment:
-
Originally posted by AzRoute66 View PostI see a lot of shade on them there sticks.
Thanks peakbagger, I was thinking about some type of washers. I was actually thinking that maybe I'd use rubber garden hose washers, as they're very inexpensive. That said, I like your suggestion and actually have some left over vinyl flashing that would probably work great. I was thinking it would be a real pain to cut out my own washers, but hadn't considered cutting them into squares. That would be much, much easier than cutting round washers.Leave a comment:
Leave a comment: