DIY Solar System Starting Now

[Dndpos]

(FYI, please excuse my English skill and its grammar.)

First, I wanted to instroduce myself. This is Andy, located in SCal - Orange County, just wanted to tell you guys that I am glad to be here. After a year of thinking and digging and searching about going solar for my house, finally I have the courage to go DIY project (not entirely diy, but with help).

I have already picked the brand of solar panels, inverter, optimizers, rack system.

At the moment, I have already submitted my info, plan, design, and materials to the engineer to draw a more and most completed design to submit to my city to pull permit.

I will post some pictures and rough drafts and materials ( I have not yet ordered any materials yet at this stage) in the next time. In the mean time, if anyone has any suggestions or idea or anything at all, please feel free to add.

Thank Everyone.

[Dndpos]

Update:

The reasons that I decided to start a thread about my DIY Solar project for my house is in hoping that it will resolves if not some if not all of the aspects or confusion that others may have.

As I stated above (I posted the thread using IPAD and it was a pain.). I will update what I have so far with picture if not info.

I started this project because I know my house will benefit from the solar sun, because my house is facing South - with zero shading, and East Facing - with zero shading. You need to know if your house is feasible to install solar or not. Many houses locations cant install solar simply because too much shade or not enough sun/hr per day.


1. You need to know what the system size in DC kW or AC kwh that you wanted to install. You electrical bills will let you know how much AC kwh, you can present the bills to your installer and your installer will let you know how to much AC kilowatt you will need. Most installer will use this website http://pvwatts.nrel.gov/pvwatts.php to determine your PV system sizing. That website allows you to key in your address and some others information to generate the system size from DC kW to AC number. So as a DIY thread, I will skip installer project away from this thread.

a. I decided to install an 8820 AC kW on my Roof, which will generate around 13000 AC kWh - 16000 AC kwh.

2. You need to know what solar panel you wanted to use. There are many panels out there for you to choose, from oversea to USA Made and of course price does matter.

a. I decided to use LG315 x 28qty panels, which comes out to be 8820 DC kW. Link to spec is below.
http://www.lg.com/us/commercial/sola...lg-LG315N1C-G4

3. You need to know what inverter you like to use along with your panels. There are quiet a few inverters out there to pick and choose, and as for my reference, I chose SolarEdge SE10000 and its Optimizers P320. The reasons I chose SE10000 and P320 because I like to monitor my panels individually and its concept. There is another inverter works similiar to my setup is Enphase 200 series, but it didn't fit my taste so I decided not to use it. I linked my Solaredge spec for those who is curious to see

a. http://www.solaredge.us/files/pdfs/p...-datasheet.pdf
b. http://www.solaredge.com/files/pdfs/...tasheet-na.pdf

4. You need to choose racking system for your roof. There are Spider Racks, SnapNRack, Uni Rack..etc...I chose SnapNrack because the place where I am going to buy my panels does not have Uni Rack. Please take your own time to research into the racking systems. When purchasing a Racking system remember to reference your roof type materials, Shingles, Tiles..etc.


5. Electrical Panel Issue.
a. At this stage, I found out that my 200 AMP needed to be either upgraded to a brand new 200AMP panel or add a subpanel. My 200 AMP panel is very old so I decided to upgrade my panel to a new 200AMP. I do not like to add sub panel (sub panel is cheaper route to go, but I didn't like it). You need to pull a new permit from city to upgrade your panel and this will delay your solar project.


I submitted my info and design and materials yesterday 03-29-2016 and should be done on within 48hrs which is this coming friday.
Well so far that is all I have. I will post what is submitted for the Engineer rough draft and form for everyone to see now.

The NEXT step:

When I received the official Solar Engineer Design and Structural for my house, I will then head to the city with my electrician to pull the Solar Permit and Electrical Panel upgrade at the same time.

If I confused any of you, please let me know.

Thanks

[ButchDeal]

I hate to rain on your parade but your order form is for an SE7600 ( probably a better fit for you anyway)
Your application states SE11400 though and states that you will have a 30 amp disconnect which is to small for the SE7600, SE10000, and SE11400 as well.

[Dndpos]

I hate to rain on your parade but your order form is for an SE7600 ( probably a better fit for you anyway)
Your application states SE11400 though and states that you will have a 30 amp disconnect which is to small for the SE7600, SE10000, and SE11400 as well.

Hi Butchdeal

The pre order was 2week old. I will definite make some corrections as i go on. I will order the Solaredge 10000se which output max ratio at 1.35 of it capicity making it 13500 Max DC kW. I do not need the 11400, I will make sure to call in to change the model of inverter to my design.

As far as the 30 amp, i have no clue, so i will definitely take your adivice ask for more info and update to the plan.

The reason i wanted to use the se10000 is because I will add another 10-16 Suniva 280 on my Weatern roof facing and north facing.

But I do not want to get ahead of myself. Thanks so much for the catch.

[ButchDeal]

Well the SE10000 does not output at that amount. It can have that much on the DC side but will not output that much. You might have a hard time with the 50amp breaker in your 200a MSP. You will also need a 50a or better disconnect instead of a 30amp disconnect.
You will need to correct your permit as well.

[Dndpos]

Well the SE10000 does not output at that amount. It can have that much on the DC side but will not output that much. You might have a hard time with the 50amp breaker in your 200a MSP. You will also need a 50a or better disconnect instead of a 30amp disconnect.
You will need to correct your permit as well.

Two thumps up for....Max Cont output for se10000 is 48amp.

What do you recommend at this point? can I do 60amp ac disc?

[sensij]

60 A disconnect is easy, the bigger problem is the service panel rating. The SE10000 has a continuous rating of 48 A at 208 V. Residential service is typically 240 V, the data sheet shows 42 A. 42*1.25 = 52.5, so you'll be looking at a 60 A breaker. If your 200 A panel has a 200 A main supply breaker, that leaves only 40 A available for PV (1.2 * 200 = 240). You would need to drop the main supply breaker to 175 A to get the PV breaker in there.

[FNG AZ]

Or just make sure and get a solar ready 200 amp panel. Then you will have 60 to 70 amps to play with before de-rating the main.

[ButchDeal]

Two thumps up for....Max Cont output for se10000 is 48amp.

What do you recommend at this point? can I do 60amp ac disc?

The problem is that your MSP is not going to be able to handle the 60a breaker for the SE10000.
You can derate it as sensij suggested or do a line side tap. Neither of these things would be considered DIY.

You really are better off with the SE7600

[foo1bar]

The problem is that your MSP is not going to be able to handle the 60a breaker for the SE10000.
You can derate it as sensij suggested or do a line side tap. Neither of these things would be considered DIY.

You really are better off with the SE7600

He's already planning to replace his main panel AND he's hiring an electrician to do the electrical work.
So it's not DIY.
And since he's replacing the main panel, having a larger solar breaker shouldn't be a problem (assuming a good panel is selected to enable that - either a solar-ready panel which has a dedicated spot - or a downsized main breaker on an end-feed panel - or a 400A panel and dedicate one of the 200A breakers to feeding a subpanel for the solar. Lots of options)

[sensij]

There are lots of options, but in the documentation shown in the first post, the OP seems unaware there will even be a problem.

[ButchDeal]

He's already planning to replace his main panel AND he's hiring an electrician to do the electrical work.
So it's not DIY.
And since he's replacing the main panel, having a larger solar breaker shouldn't be a problem (assuming a good panel is selected to enable that - either a solar-ready panel which has a dedicated spot - or a downsized main breaker on an end-feed panel - or a 400A panel and dedicate one of the 200A breakers to feeding a subpanel for the solar. Lots of options)

He has already submitted for permit and doesn't seem to understand the issue.
Original permit was for SE7600 and even for that the disconnect and breakers were too small.
He didn't plan on a derate.

Yes there are many ways to connect the 60a feed in, but for the above two reasons I doubt this is a DIY job and certainly not a DIY that should be used as an example for other DIYs, except as an example to do your homework.

[FNG AZ]

I submitted my info and design and materials yesterday 03-29-2016 and should be done on within 48hrs which is this coming friday.
Well so far that is all I have. I will post what is submitted for the Engineer rough draft and form for everyone to see now.

The NEXT step:

When I received the official Solar Engineer Design and Structural for my house, I will then head to the city with my electrician to pull the Solar Permit and Electrical Panel upgrade at the same time.

To me it looks like he has not pulled a permit yet.. still in the design stages.

A 200 amp solar ready panel will be an easy choice since the panel is being replaced. One with a 225 amp buss or a dedicated input that goes around the buss.

[foo1bar]

He has already submitted for permit and doesn't seem to understand the issue.

No - he is sending his ideas to someone to draw up the design. Then he will use that design for his permit which he'll apply for with his electrician.

That's a very reasonable approach for someone who's trying to do this as being their own GC (ie. not an expert in electrical or solar matters - but recognizing that they aren't and paying someone to provide that expertise)

Now the real trick with that is he has to find someone who *does* have the appropriate knowledge - and I can easily see someone who doesn't have experience picking the wrong person.

[ButchDeal]

Yes OP is sending to someone hopefully smarter

However the form to do such states clearly on it " any changes after signature could result in additional charges"
The form also states that it has a 30a disconnect, SE11400, and MSP of 200a with 200a bus.
The first two are wrong, and the MSP conflicts with suggested solutions.
The form is already signed.

All these add up to my alerting him to the situation. Suggestions that he "could use an MSP with 225a bus" or derated 200a MSP, or Solar ready MSP is counter to the situation.

Further if the plan is to expand by another 4.4kw that should be part of the design now, or it likely will be more difficult.