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  • #16
    Originally posted by Sunking View Post
    You will be much happier and richer man if you bury a AC Feeder cable from your house.
    The OP may want to consider this statement before proceeding. At least look at the comparative cost. It would be good to know the motivation to use solar for this outbuilding.

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    • #17
      I knew I came to the right place with these forums. Everyone's input has been fantastic, and here is what I have decided to do. First, the current system that I have(minus the batteries) I will take and incorporate with my children's playhouse, along with a much smaller battery bank for a radio and some lights. Secondly, I totaled up all the power consuming sources that this system will be supporting, I did not use the kill a watt yet, but I did thorough research and I attempted to math and the draw will be as follows:
      Category A(Things that will be used every day or nearly every day)
      8 x 14w Bulbs for 5 hrs a day = 560 watts
      1x 39.24w GE - GTE16GTH 15.5 cu ft Refrigerator for 24 hrs a day = 576w
      1x 3.3w NETGEAR AC750 wireless range extender for 24hrs = 80w
      1x 14.81w Haiku 52" fan for 5 hrs = 75w
      Cat A total = 1291w

      Category B(Things that will be used two or three times a week)
      1x (?50w?) Kobalt charger for 5hrs a day = 250w
      1x 26w Dremel charge for 5 hrs a day = 130w
      Cat B total = 380w

      Category C(Things that will be used once every week or two)
      1 x 53w Samsung 55" UN55J6200AFXZA for 5 hrs a day = 265w (123w max for 615w)
      1x 90w LG LHB755W Home Theater for 5 hrs a day = 450w
      1x 15w DirecTv wireless terminal for 5 hrs a day = 75w
      Cat C total = 790w

      Total = 2461w
      All items run at ~ 120VAC
      So, topping up for inefficiencies and losses, I'll guestimate roughly 3300w(i'm sure theres a better tool out there for this, but I'm being quite broad)

      I think my batteries are fine as long as I alter the configuration to 4 in series for 24v @ 370Ah
      Note: I have read on these forums that charging batteries in a series as very bad for the batteries. Can anyone shed some light on that?

      I do plan on being cheap and buying a 24v Cotek Inverter @ 4000w. I know it's not a top brand but i've read some pretty solid reviews, and depending on how everything runs, I may expand to a 48v inverter and I dont want to drop 2-4k on something I won't use for very long.

      So for solar panels, thanks to littleharbor and solar pete i now feel as though I have a much better understanding of panels. This property is in a zone 5 (folsom lake area) and assuming this structure will need that 3300w per day, I will need 660 Watts worth of panels. Now, i definitely want the 6x12 structured cells, and i'm not one for bare minimuming my solutions, so, based on the space I have available I will use 6 325W SolarWorldSW325 XL Silver Mono Panels. This will allow me to expand the system with a larger battery bank.

      As for a CC, i'm thinking the MidNite Classic 150 MPPT . But i have a question, what's the drawback of the LITE over the none LITE version? Since it's a bit cheaper.

      I know a few people have mentioned the price and whether or not it's worth it. I'm well aware that this may not be the most cost effective solution, but it will satisfy my need to tinker and build stuff while experimenting with a technology that i've been curious about for some time. I've been thoroughly impressed with the amount of help i've received and the amount of knowledge i've gained since my original post yesterday. Thank you all very much. I'm currently in Texas and won't be making this expansion for at least 2 months, so as always, i'm open to any suggestions and tips

      Comment


      • #18
        Here's the differences,
        CLASSIC COMPARISONS
        Standard Classic - Has all features: Arc Fault, Ground Fault, Free web monitoring, Graphics panel, Solar, Hydro and Wind Modes.

        Classic Lite - Identical to standard Classic except, No Arc Fault, No Graphics panel, LED display only, Dip switch programming and Ground Fault is included. You can use the Local app and have all the programmable capabilities of the Standard Classic with the use of your computer.

        Classic-SL’s - Simplified version of the standard Classic No Arc Fault, Solar Mode Only, No Ethernet capabilities, Ground Fault included. Graphics Panel and Simplified Menu.

        My take is the solar only version is desirable in that it still has the lcd screen and is easier to program. I found one seller online selling it for 549.99


        2.2kw Suntech mono, Classic 200, NEW Trace SW4024

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        • #19
          The classic when running with much of a load, has a small diameter cooling fan that comes on screaming like a siren. Not a bedroom friendly controller
          Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
          || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
          || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

          solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
          gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

          Comment


          • #20
            Actually it has 3 fans. Screaming like a siren is quite an exaggeration though. That being said, yes , don't mount it in your bedroom, or bathroom for that matter if you like your bathroom a peaceful place.
            2.2kw Suntech mono, Classic 200, NEW Trace SW4024

            Comment


            • #21
              "Note: I have read on these forums that charging batteries in a series as very bad for the batteries. Can anyone shed some light on that?"

              To shed light on what you said, can you cite specific posts? Doesn't sound familiar. A single string of identical batteries is your best case configuration, IMO.

              Comment


              • #22
                Parallel charging multiple strings of batteries is the recipe for failure. There are methods to help lessen the imbalance issue like using buss bars and equal length cabling. A single series wired bank of batteries is the preferred method. Larger capacity banks can be assembled with 6, 4 or 2 volt L-16 type batteries and of course higher voltage systems.
                2.2kw Suntech mono, Classic 200, NEW Trace SW4024

                Comment


                • #23
                  When that 3rd Turbo fan kicks on, you will know it. At boot up time, all 3 fans come on for about a second, and that's not enough time for them to get really spooled up. I can hear the fans in my battery shed from 20' away with the door closed.
                  Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
                  || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
                  || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

                  solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
                  gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    The wider the differential from nominal battery bank voltage to vmp of your array the more heat is generated and needs to be cooled. Kind of hard to tell if you have a 12 volt system working off the 160 watt VOC but if so you would be running at a lower efficiency and thus creating more heat.
                    2.2kw Suntech mono, Classic 200, NEW Trace SW4024

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