Please review and critique my diagram

[trailercabin]

Hoping I am not making a fool out of myself but how else one learns?

Please let me know what I am missing and if anyone can maybe show on my wires where things go because I am not 100% of anything really.

A few notes questions:

I will prefer 2x 250 watt panels which I think is right at the max of my mppt? If so then can anyone point me where I can find one for not a lot of money?
Does the Go Power! TS-30 work in my system in terms of max power so I don’t fry it?
Maintenance on the batteries? Any tips on location? Cool? Air supply? https://www.samsclub.com/p/duracell-...c2/prod3590228

Should I get a lightning arrestor? I am in upstate NY. If yes which one and how to incorporate?

Only between batteries I need special cables the rest is just a regular electrical wire?

I prefer 2x 250 watt or 260 watt panels which is right at the max of my mppt right? Should I not go as high? Anyone can steer me to where I can get cheaper panels than the ones I picked?

From the inverter I run a hot and neutral?

Do I need a shunt in my system?

Do I wire batteries directly to rv 12v system or is there anything in between?

Are my fuses good? https://www.amazon.com/Fastronix-Aut...9512345&sr=8-2 &

https://www.amazon.com/InstallGear-G...48&sr=8-8&th=1

[Mike90250]

Slow down. Before you buy any parts, you need to know what your system is going to have to power.
Just a couple lights, 50w of panels and a small battery
add cell phones and tablet, there's another 100w
add a fridge, another 300w
TV 100w
fan 100w
air conditioner - now you graduate to a 24v system add another 500w..

Or you can overspend and overbuild from the start if you are rich.

So, where will your panels be installed ? workshop roof? ground mount? behind the window glass in your apartment? will you be able to clean snow off of them in winter ?

What are your critical loads? optional loads ?

[trailercabin]

I did run some calculations a while ago on my usage with a friend of mine who knows a lot on solar and we came up with this setup and we said I can get away with 1000watt but since I added a few items such as a super high efficiency mini split AC which takes under 400 watt at max.

Also I am going to do a chest freezer conversion to fridge. And if I have left over power - a 600 watt microwave?

My cabin is 12ft x 12 ft. I have 2 lights. cell phones and tablets. Small tv in future. RV water pump. Tankless water heater that works on propane but it has a fan so it will draw a bit of power when you shower. That is it.. Tool won't be run on this system except for charging batteries.

Panels will be on my roof which is 13ft off the ground but I am fairly wooded so they won't have a ton of direct light. but again you need to keep in mind that I will be there for 2-3 days at most then not there for over a week so it will have time to recharge itself - which is why I did a fairly large bank for my application.

What do you mean optional loads and critical loads? I have an AC distribution panel which I used to hook up my generator right up to it. I do not have anything wired for DC which I am now thinking maybe I should run some... For ceiling fan, outhouse fan, phone and tablet charges... And so on. Not sure if it is worthwhile on such a small set up?

[chrisski]

Are you able to cut the trees?

I am building a system to boondock with an RV, and I was surprised about how much partial shade can effect a solar panel. There's plenty of stuff on that on YouTube, here is a link to an article https://www.wholesalesolar.com/blog/...e-solar-panels. It's going to make me really look at plumbing pipes, TV antennas and Air Conditioning shading the panels when I put them on the roof. I was actually surprised to find out how little solar power can actually deliver useable energy. Fell way underneath my expectations,

I am planning 24 VDC from the panels with 600 watts worth of panels where the system will run off 12 VDC. I plan on getting maybe a 400 ah battery bank. This gets me 4800 watt hours, but I can only use about 2400 watt hours a day before the batteries will get too low and become toast, never again to be recharged. I want to run a 1000 watt inverter, which I plan on letting me turn my microwave on for popcorn, make one or two cups of coffee a time with an electric coffee maker. I can't use my electric kettle that boils 1.7 liters of water. It's rated at 1700 watts.

I think when I run my 1000 watt inverter, it will suck 80 to 90 amps an hour out of the battery bank, so that does not leave a lot of power. Only maybe two and a half hours. Supposedly when you run these inverters with AGM batteries, the voltage will drop significantly when power is maxed at 1000 watts. Watched a video where with the inverter on a 440 AH battery bank with no load, the power was at 12.8 VDC, and at 1000 watts, dropped to 11.6 VDC. That is probably not good for the system in continuous run. There's 300k electric fires a year, so I'm being quite conservative with my installation. I personally think a bad wiring job on the video I watched would probably burn the guys RV down.

What I wrote above, is really why I gave up on AC and solar in the RV. My AC's are around 2500 watts starting, and go to maybe 1200 once it runs.

A future improvement would be to make the Solar system 24 VDC, 440 AH battery bank, and a 24 VDC 2000 watt inverter. I still would not be able to run my AC off that. With that system, I'd likely get a second Charge controller to handle a ground mounted array, because I would be out of space on my roof for panels. This would now allow me to use a small toaster oven for toast, not cooking my vegetables for an hour, and I could use the 1.7 liter electric kettle, but still no AC. A 48 VDC system may allow me to run AC, but that has a battery bank 4 times as big, so close to 500 LBS for lithium, and maybe 1200 - 1500 LBS for AGM, so that is not practical, and add to this 48 VDC system, the extra ground mounted panels, and that is a lot. I'd need a tow behind trailer to hold all that stuff.

[bcroe]

I would suggest that a coffee maker on standby is an extremely inefficient use of energy.
Running very high peak power 120VAC stuff (toaster, microwave) from batteries forces
you to carry a big overhead in equipment to supply those seconds. You could get an
inexpensive single serving coffee machine that takes its energy directly from the 12V
battery at a tenth the power, start your generator briefly for toast or microwave, run on
the plant you already have. Bruce Roe

[chrisski]

I would suggest that a coffee maker on standby is an extremely inefficient use of energy.
Running very high peak power 120VAC stuff (toaster, microwave) from batteries forces
you to carry a big overhead in equipment to supply those seconds. You could get an
inexpensive single serving coffee machine that takes its energy directly from the 12V
battery at a tenth the power, start your generator briefly for toast or microwave, run on
the plant you already have. Bruce Roe

I will have to look at that more. I'm looking for direct wire DC appliances and can't find much. I found one coffee maker that plugs into a 12 VDC cigarette lighter socket. I also found a trucker's slow cooker, but I am having trouble finding others. I'm sure I'm putting the wrong thing in google. I put "12 VDC appliances" hoping to find things like you mentioned. So any links would be appreciated. There has got to be more out there that I'm missing.

[Mike90250]

Critical loads are like:
water pump during fire season
CPAP machine
1 general night light
freezer full of elk

Optional loads:
air conditioner
coffee machine
computer
freezer full of cool pops for kids

[trailercabin]

Critical loads are like:
water pump during fire season
CPAP machine
1 general night light
freezer full of elk

Optional loads:
air conditioner
coffee machine
computer
freezer full of cool pops for kids

HAHA

fire season in upstate NY? I will have bigger problems when climate change makes that happen.
General night ok
I don't hunt

optional loads -
AC yes. I am getting a mini split which draws about 350 watts. 110v
no coffee machine
laptop will be charged if I even bring it
Freezer yes! Actually my plan was to do a chest freezer conversion but I need a freezer as you stated.

Any other notes?