Where do I stick this...

[Weldman]

This link is a good engineering article on selecting the resistor and capacitor. If you really want to learn, this is good reading:

https://www.cde.com/resources/catalogs/igbtAPPguide.pdf

Even if you're not very familiar with resistors, capacitors and inductors, (V=IR, dV/dt=I/C, dI/dt=V/L), the artcle will be very helpful.
Disclaimer: This article was written by a capacitor maker to help people pick one of their capacitors. The same article applies even if you use a different brand of capacitor.

Thanks, I am familiar as I replace them in microwaves, compressors, motors and list goes on. I have lots knowledge in AC thoug don't know it all and learning always. I weld which requires knowledge of electrical too. Though I appreciate the information to learn more.

[bcroe]

Under clouds I expect to see 10% to 25% of the energy available under best sun, no
equipment will fix that. Knowledge is power, but designing a snubber is not trivial, a
storage scope is a necessary tool. Best to take advantage of existing designs. Bruce Roe

[bob-n]

Mike commented that you can't put in any snubber without engineering. He's right. Mike also mentions a different snubber for each load. Again, he's right, but it isn't quite as bad as he implies. In this case, snubber design is relatively easy. Car-point capacitor design and similar applications are more complex, because they are repetitive. This is a one-time energy dissipator. You won't be turning on and off the switch 1000 times per second.

For a mechanical DC load switch, all you need is:
1) A low-enough value resistor and large enough capacitor to keep peak voltage within the switch rating.
2) A high-enough voltage and durable enough capacitor to withstand the ringing peak and inrush current.
3) A large-enough power resistor so the energy can be safely dissipated.
4) A high-enough value resistor to limit the capacitor current.

You start with worst-case load current and worst-case wire inductance. That gives the energy (1/2 L I ^2). Then you need to know the voltage rating of the switch. If your source is 48V and your switch is rated for 100V, you can withstand a lot of ringing. If your source is 48V and your switch is rated to 60V, it's a tougher problem.

I've simulated the RLC network with SPICE to see the effect of resistor and capacitor value variation. It's very forgiving, but again, Mike is right that you can't get by with just randomly chosen parts. You need to do the math. Then you'll find out the range of resistors and capacitors that will work for your particular situation.

A completely different approach that works well is to replace the whole snubber with two zener diodes in back-to-back series. This may not be best choice for car points, but for a switch, it's just fine. Make sure that the zeners are rated for the peak current of the load and that the zener voltage is below the switch maximum voltage.

[bcroe]

A TRANSZORB will take care of the pair of zeners. Bruce Roe

[Weldman]

Well when I travel down that road of 48vdc I will keep this in mind as it's inevitable of not going to 48vdc. Cost to run power to my property is more than I paid for the land and if it wasn't I wouldn't want neighbors coming in now there is power on tap available. In mean time I will dig deeper and learn more on this subject so when time comes I will be ready.

[Weldman]

https://daycounter.com/Calculators/Snubbers/Snubber-Design-Calculator.phtml

[Weldman]

Looking for a auto generator start when the batteries hit down to almost 50%. Have a Aims 6kw inverter/charger with auto genset option for 2 wires to go in which then goes to a module such as the one from Magnum. Wouldn't mind going with Magnum but there is low feedback on them which claim them as junk, so is there is anyone with experience with another manufacturer or this one particular.
I travel extensively and not every campground is full of sunlight so when my partner and are hiking in the mountains and we end up longer than expected from returning, I rather generator kick on to bulk charge enough for them to last till either we get home or sunlight the next morning takes over.

[Mike90250]

I'd like to take this opportunity to warn you against AGS systems. Especially when not present at the generator. Many fires and damages are caused by unattended generator operation.

If you are running a 6kw 12V inverter, you are already in jeopardy, unless you are using extremely heavy gauge cable and dual bolted connections to prevent loosening. 1Kw is general guideline for a 12V system, 2kw for a 24V system and any larger requires a 48v system.

You should be able to monitor the weather, loads and battery condition and decide if you need to run the generator to preserve the batteries. I can help you with this if you want, but I actively discourage AGS systems .

bblu060d-front-long-barrel-copper-lug-600mcm-1-2-inch-green.jpg

[Weldman]

I'd like to take this opportunity to warn you against AGS systems. Especially when not present at the generator. Many fires and damages are caused by unattended generator operation.

If you are running a 6kw 12V inverter, you are already in jeopardy, unless you are using extremely heavy gauge cable and dual bolted connections to prevent loosening. 1Kw is general guideline for a 12V system, 2kw for a 24V system and any larger requires a 48v system.

You should be able to monitor the weather, loads and battery condition and decide if you need to run the generator to preserve the batteries. I can help you with this if you want, but I actively discourage AGS systems .

bblu060d-front-long-barrel-copper-lug-600mcm-1-2-inch-green.jpg

Running 24v and reason for such large inverter/charger is it was cheaper than one of 2kw due to blemish from shipping. Yeah I don't have enough solar panels to run it full load either at 6kw though will get there and don't plan on powering anything over 2000 watts as everything is on DC here except tools I use on rare occasions. Have 4/0 Ancor marine wire feeding it and never had problem with connections come loose, everything is up to ABYC and USCG codes which means nothing is moving unless someone crawled under there and personally loosened it.
I can monitor the weather it's not the problem, the problem lies in the shading of the campgrounds that I get to combined with time of the year and add in if I'm north or south of the 45th parallel. The genset I run is propane, yes it's less fuel efficient but it runs on the fuel I already have on board the rig, lasts longer in longevity of the engine, and doesn't smell as bad. Figure if people can run backup generators whats wrong with backup for batteries on PV systems.

[Weldman]

Finally turned everything on and on the road. So far 80% SOC after 18 hrs of no sunlight, will bulk charge at next stop...

[Weldman]

Fully charged in Texas, easily staying topped off on solar, I think it’s safe to add a DC fridge now. 68F0DB13-B4A2-4DDC-89CC-B199E5A73616.jpeg