24v DC only system. Am I on the right track?

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  • MintBerryCrunch
    Junior Member
    • Jan 2019
    • 2

    24v DC only system. Am I on the right track?

    Hi all,
    I am new to solar but a thorough researcher (usually). I am not asking to be spoon fed but I am close to completing a small DC only (no inverter) off grid system and would like to run it past the folks who have the experience I dont before I finish the system off and plug it all in so here I am. This is a hobby/learning project and has been a fun ride up the learning curve so far. Forums like this one have sure made it easier so thank you already.

    Primarily I am planning to power 24v aquarium lights (inside the house) which use under 0.5kWh each day (70w at peak) and a small 1a @ 6v rated pond pump. I will probably add a few usb ports in future too for charging phones etc, but we will see how it goes. The load is all adaptable (eg I can turn lights up and down and change the time of day they come on and off) and I wouldnt even mind if the lights turned off on an overcast week etc. I could say I planned it to be more natural haha. I have just purchased 2 relatively cheap 12v 75ah agm batteries to get me started and I already have a MPPT 40a (charge) 20a (load) controller with 2x200w panels (17.5v each wired in series). I realise the packs will only give me about 20ah of power at full charge (roughly what id need over a 24h period for just the lights and pond pump) but plan to adapt when the lights come on/turn off to suit. The controller also has a setting that apparently runs the load from the panels and switches to battery when the panels are insufficient so Ill be able to have a play with that if needed too. I also have a bluetooth monitor/app for the controller so I can get a better idea of what I need to change as I go.

    The above, as you can tell, is all what I might be able to call educated ifs and buts haha but thats the fun of it. The reason I am writing this post is to ensure I am doing it all safely. I thought writing my intended uses might help. I will write below a summary of what I am doing to wire it all and if anyone sees anything that raises an eyebrow or has any advice/dos and donts, I would be very appreciative if you could let me know.

    The bulk of the system will be going in a small garden shed in what is basically a small but solid wooden box/bookshelf as I am renting and would like it to be easily removable. My panels will be in the backyard and touchable. Therefore, I plan to ground them. I have dialled b4 I dug and installed a grounding rod already. I am now waiting on a clamp on multimeter to make sure its resistance is under the 5ohm people seem to recommend and have a secondary place ready should I need to install a second rod. The chassis of my charge controller will also be connected to the grounding rod. I am using 10awg (approx 5.2mm2) and smaller throughout the system except for the grounding wire which is slightly larger at 6mm2.

    I have 3 30a circuit breakers and plan to use one on the PV positive at the panels (although since purchasing and reading more Im pretty sure this isnt really necessary?). The other 2 will be installed right next to the batteries, one on the positive & one on the negative leading to the charge controller. The load will be run directly from the charge controller and even though it has inbuilt overload protection, I am using a 15a breaker on the positive at the controller which will also act as a distribution block of sorts. From the 15a breaker I will have one wire going to a buck converter then a 2-3a fuse and likely 16-18awg going to the pond pump and a second 12awg wire that will make the 5-6m run into the house. I have chosen 12awg as it fits through holes at the bottom of my windows conveniently right next to the aquariums and should be more than enough to handle my load with little voltage drop. Inside the 12awg will hit a 4-way fuse block where it will be appropriately fused depending on what size wire I use to get to the aquarium light controller and whatever voltage converter(s) I end up using for charging phones etc etc.

    And that is where I am at for now. Sorry for the essay but as I am renting and have 2 children under 6yrs so I want to be sure I have not overlooked anything critical and that I have absorbed the weeks and weeks of reading safety posts well.

    Other than that, I only really have 1 question for you all. What do you think about putting 150a connecters (XT150) on each of the grounding wires? This would mean I can easily move the panels undercover should there be word of incoming hail/wind and that I can easily move the charge control/battery box inside for modifications etc.

    Thanks for reading if you made it to here, and for any advice in advance.
    Last edited by MintBerryCrunch; 01-11-2019, 07:12 AM.
  • Mike90250
    Moderator
    • May 2009
    • 16020

    #2
    Why are you taking this off grid ? ( yes, experimenting)

    PV panels within touch reach of children BAD - even if grounded.

    Charge controllers (most of them) are unable to support a load of more than a couple watts. Be sure you check the specs and you can use it the way you are thinking of.

    Fuses belong at the Battery, not at the load. Fuses protect the wires from a short and prevent fires. If your long, unprotected wire going though a notch in the window frame shorts, the fuse at the aquarium does nothing. And the fuse has to be properly sized for your wire. Often a long run of wire has enough resistance to NOT blow a fuse or breaker, but will still cook and start a fire.
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

    Comment

    • MintBerryCrunch
      Junior Member
      • Jan 2019
      • 2

      #3
      What?
      Taking it off grid? It has never been on grid..... I'm simply trying to run some DC loads I have from some panels i got for free and a charge controller a mate decided not to use in his caravan.

      Charge controller (as mentioned in the post) is rated to 20a on the load side, 40a charge side. Obviously i have checked the specs. According to the company who made it, its been tested to 30a. I am running less than 10a...... A couple of watts???? Seriously? What 24v capable controller can only run a couple of watts? Even at 24v a 5a charge controller would still be capable of 100w. (120w max). My entire load is below 100w (lights + pond pump) and i am using a 20a controller which would be capable of up to 480w.....

      Load hits a 15a circuit breaker first (to protect the wires!) then is distributed to different loads inside the house through a fuse block to protect the inside wires.... 5-6m is not a long run..... Window frame is wood.

      But thanks......


      Comment

      • ButchDeal
        Solar Fanatic
        • Apr 2014
        • 3802

        #4
        Originally posted by MintBerryCrunch
        What?
        Taking it off grid? It has never been on grid..... I'm simply trying to run some DC loads .

        Originally posted by MintBerryCrunch
        I am planning to power 24v aquarium lights (inside the house) which use under 0.5kWh each day (70w at peak) and a small 1a @ 6v rated pond pump. I will probably add a few usb ports in future too for charging phones etc,
        This is what he is talking about. why are you wanting to take this aquarium lights and pump and phone charger off grid?

        You further asked if you were doing it safely where mike mentioned that PV modules in an accessible location are not safe. They should be fenced off or raised up out of reach.
        OutBack FP1 w/ CS6P-250P http://bit.ly/1Sg5VNH

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