Laptop keeps crashing my solar rig

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  • Mike90250
    Moderator
    • May 2009
    • 16020

    #16
    use a fused automotive lighter socket connected to the battery, not to the Controller.
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

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    • littleharbor
      Solar Fanatic
      • Jan 2016
      • 1998

      #17
      The C series controllers, when used in load control mode, are strictly load controllers, not charge controllers. You are really creating a problem that doesn't need to happen. . Direct to battery with an inline fuse, done.

      If you are drawing your battery down to dangerously low levels then either your battery is shot or your system is undersized for your needs.
      2.2kw Suntech mono, Classic 200, NEW Trace SW4024

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      • jflorey2
        Solar Fanatic
        • Aug 2015
        • 2331

        #18
        Originally posted by Pentos
        The problem seems to be when running it through the controllers (tried two of em now )
        Well, then, don't do that.
        The amp rating of the two charge controller I've tried are 10A and 30A, respectively.
        If you want a _load_controller_ (not a charge controller) to disconnect your battery when it gets low, google Xantrex C35 or Xantrex C40. They are designed to support this. Keep the charge controller separate.

        If you don't want a load controller that's fine. Wire directly to the battery, with a fuse at the battery rated for the wiring. Be aware that drawing the battery down to close to 0% charge will destroy it, and you will have no protection against this.
        Is there any possibility that the voltage difference could be causing a problem? i.e. the rig outputs 12v but the laptop requires 18v
        If you have an adapter it should work. NOTE - I have used a few adapters that really need to see _above_ 12V to power the laptop i.e. they are looking for 13.8 volt and don't work much below that. Good adapters work from about 11 to 16 volts.




        Originally posted by littleharbor
        The C series controllers, when used in load control mode, are strictly load controllers, not charge controllers. You are really creating a problem that doesn't need to happen. . Direct to battery with an inline fuse, done. If you are drawing your battery down to dangerously low levels then either your battery is shot or your system is undersized for your needs.
        Agreed. Which is why an LVD might be useful for him; he will prevent destruction of his battery while he is learning. (And from what he has said, he's definitely still learning.)


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        • Sunking
          Solar Fanatic
          • Feb 2010
          • 23301

          #19
          Originally posted by Pentos

          Ahhhhhh. OK - so can you recommend one that would be right for my uses? (I tried searching for the C40 as suggested, but don't seem to be able to find one here in the UK)
          Last time you will NOT USE ANY LOAD TERMINAL ON ANY CONTROLLER. Directly from the battery via a fuse.
          MSEE, PE

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