use a fused automotive lighter socket connected to the battery, not to the Controller.
Laptop keeps crashing my solar rig
Collapse
X
-
Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister -
The C series controllers, when used in load control mode, are strictly load controllers, not charge controllers. You are really creating a problem that doesn't need to happen. . Direct to battery with an inline fuse, done.
If you are drawing your battery down to dangerously low levels then either your battery is shot or your system is undersized for your needs.2.2kw Suntech mono, Classic 200, NEW Trace SW4024Comment
-
The amp rating of the two charge controller I've tried are 10A and 30A, respectively.
If you don't want a load controller that's fine. Wire directly to the battery, with a fuse at the battery rated for the wiring. Be aware that drawing the battery down to close to 0% charge will destroy it, and you will have no protection against this.
Is there any possibility that the voltage difference could be causing a problem? i.e. the rig outputs 12v but the laptop requires 18v
The C series controllers, when used in load control mode, are strictly load controllers, not charge controllers. You are really creating a problem that doesn't need to happen. . Direct to battery with an inline fuse, done. If you are drawing your battery down to dangerously low levels then either your battery is shot or your system is undersized for your needs.
Comment
-
MSEE, PEComment
Comment