It's true, if you go to a 24v system you will be much happier in the long run , I think. In my one room weekend cabin I'm very happy. I've seen the arguments made time and time again here why people think 12v is what they want, and with a few exceptions (where they are certain they never want more than their really light loads and already blew money on 12v) the 24v or even 48v argument wins out. It's much easier to expand in the future, uses thinner (cheaper) wiring that you can hook up without special termination tools, I'm told it is less of a fire hazard (which makes sense), etc. There is sort of a sweet spot at 24v for what size loads you describe when you try to puzzle all the pieces together economically and safely. At least that's what I found. Consider it carefully because you sort of commit to 12v, and then to switch later it's difficult. And can you explain any perceived advantages of 12v over 24v?
Also, your loads are 180 out of one 12v 230Ah battery? Get two of them and the panels to match or I am afraid that battery won't last. Actually, you can do the math better than my comment but it's a ballpark that says you need bigger battery if you want it to survive with those loads. Shoot for less than 50 percent discharge (many will say 20 percent but mine are used 2 days a week and will die of old age before dying of cycling). Also, I'd suggest not AGM if you are trying to save unnessary expense. Flooded are cheaper, and have advantages worth considering - for example being easier to test when you are trying to figure out what is going on. A hydrometer gives the best insight, and you can't get into an AGM to test them so you're left guessing. You just want something to store the energy then release it when you want, and flooded do that very well and much cheaper. Now, if you have to put them inside and can't vent, then that's too bad. But if you can go outside with them or vent them okay then get flooded in my opinion.
Good luck. With my cheap 1000 watts of 24v 250watt panels, I run a 315 Ah 24v battery setup, with a 1500 pure sine inverter. Not top quality but it all works together well at my cabin. Charge controller is my gem, a 60amp mppt Morningstar and to me that's the heart of it - wifi view into the controller webpage to see the logs. With it I run lights, CPAP, music, laptop, charge phones, run TV (rarely, but it's fine), microwave (Not top setting is all), and in summer a 5000 BTU window AC in the day and even overnight on low.. This weekend adding a transformer to run our 1/2 HP 230v Grundfos well pump (on a timer to run in the day) to fill a cistern. I'll put a float switch on it in the spring when I really get it going). It's far easier for me to do all that than a 12v RV style system would be. Also, panels are cheaper, wire is cheaper, and I've suggested cheaper batteries. So reconsider your options.
Also, your loads are 180 out of one 12v 230Ah battery? Get two of them and the panels to match or I am afraid that battery won't last. Actually, you can do the math better than my comment but it's a ballpark that says you need bigger battery if you want it to survive with those loads. Shoot for less than 50 percent discharge (many will say 20 percent but mine are used 2 days a week and will die of old age before dying of cycling). Also, I'd suggest not AGM if you are trying to save unnessary expense. Flooded are cheaper, and have advantages worth considering - for example being easier to test when you are trying to figure out what is going on. A hydrometer gives the best insight, and you can't get into an AGM to test them so you're left guessing. You just want something to store the energy then release it when you want, and flooded do that very well and much cheaper. Now, if you have to put them inside and can't vent, then that's too bad. But if you can go outside with them or vent them okay then get flooded in my opinion.
Good luck. With my cheap 1000 watts of 24v 250watt panels, I run a 315 Ah 24v battery setup, with a 1500 pure sine inverter. Not top quality but it all works together well at my cabin. Charge controller is my gem, a 60amp mppt Morningstar and to me that's the heart of it - wifi view into the controller webpage to see the logs. With it I run lights, CPAP, music, laptop, charge phones, run TV (rarely, but it's fine), microwave (Not top setting is all), and in summer a 5000 BTU window AC in the day and even overnight on low.. This weekend adding a transformer to run our 1/2 HP 230v Grundfos well pump (on a timer to run in the day) to fill a cistern. I'll put a float switch on it in the spring when I really get it going). It's far easier for me to do all that than a 12v RV style system would be. Also, panels are cheaper, wire is cheaper, and I've suggested cheaper batteries. So reconsider your options.
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