Bought an off grid cabin - system is next

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  • Moonie
    Junior Member
    • Jan 2017
    • 14

    Bought an off grid cabin - system is next

    I just bought an off-grid cabin that needs an expanded off-grid energy system. Currently the cabin has a buried 500 gal propane tank(at purchase 60% full), 8kw generac guardian(propane), back up 5.5kw gas generator, propane fridge, propane stove, propane fire place, 500ft well(240v submerged), propane on demand hot water(2xD batteries) and central heat and air. Closest grid power is 3 miles down the forest service road. I'm 7 miles off pavement up the service road, truly in the middle of nowhere and I love it. Location is in North Georgia in the Chattahoochee NF.

    Reduce:
    My first order of business is to reduce my consumption needs. All of the lights/bulbs are getting changed to LED. The countertop microwave is going away.

    Worse Case Daily 110v Energy Draw:
    10 7-watt LED bulbs @ 12 hours a day: 840 watt hours
    3 120-watt ceiling fans 12 hours a day: 360 watt hours
    1 100-watt TV 4 hours a day: 400 watt hours
    1 50 watt radio 4 hours a day: 200 watt hours
    1 87-watt philips respironics 8 hours a day: 696 watt hours
    = ~2500 watt hours x 1.5 fudge 3750 watt hours

    I'm not sure how to calculate well pump daily usage, it has a 30 gallon pressure tank. Plus other small misc things like charging phones and laptop etc.

    I'm installing a security system that is based on 3 bushnell cellular game cameras with Lion batteries and each have solar panels so they don't need to be hooked to the system. This will allow me to have a remote security system that is self powered and will text my phone on movement. Also during hunting season I can easily move the cameras without having to move wires or power around. Shocking that there is good AT&T service on top the mountain but there is. I'll be hanging up solar powered motion lights too.

    Planned System:
    Magnum 4448 pae
    Magnum MMP panel
    8x6v AGM batteries 390AH Crown L16(or similar) - 18720 watt hours
    (Panels and Charge controller later)

    My Plan:
    I believe the 4448 inverter is plenty big to run all 110v and well pump in bursts, but obviously not house A/C. I plan to wire it directly to the house panel to supply both 110 and 220v. You may be laughing at this point because I mentioned central A/C above, but just bare with me. Since the magnum has a 60amp, or 2x30amp feed in from the generator to pass through and charge the batteries and supply the house panel with power, my first question is by running the central A/C off generator only will the pass through on the magnum be sufficient? I know the 48v battery bank won't be CLOSE to even starting the central unit so I'll just run it off genset.

    If the genset pass through will run the central A/C what problems can I expect? If the genset shuts down while A/C is running and the magnum tries to switch to batteries will the amp draw kill the batteries until the magnum can shut down or just pop a breaker? Is there any protection from this besides installing another house panel and isolating A/C and well pump on genset only?

    I mentioned above that I will be adding panels and charge controller later(if possible). Since the magnum has a built in 30amp charger I figure until I install PV and midnight 150 I can just keep the batteries charged with genset. The generac can be started from the house already, and I'll wire in an autostart from the magnum. Does the magnum do a sufficient job knowing when to start the generator and charge, or should I go ahead and install the midnight with whizbang to kick on the genset? Genset is currently set to run once a month for 10 minutes but can be programmed to run weekly to keep batteries topped off while I'm not there. Draw on batteries while I'm not there should only be the magnum itself.

    PV Panels
    Since I'll be getting about 4 good hours a day I figure 16x300 watt panels will be good? That's 4800 watts x 4 hours = 19200 watt hours to match my battery bank.

    I'm pretty much a newb at all this so hopefully my initial thoughts aren't too far off the mark. Later on down the road(5 years or when first battery set needs replaced) I'll look at 24x2v 1150ah batteries and a 48v mini split to replace the central A/C. Or just add another string of 8x6v and another midnight for that run.

    Thoughts, concerns?

    Moonie
  • Moonie
    Junior Member
    • Jan 2017
    • 14

    #2
    IMG_0626.jpg

    Pic of my cabin

    Comment

    • Mike90250
      Moderator
      • May 2009
      • 16020

      #3
      First question, when is the hydrostatic test for the propane tank due, when will the dealer stop filling it because it's past it cert date ?

      and yes, you can burn a lot of fuel once a week to top off the batteries, If It was my place, I'd install 4, 200W panels to help keep the batteries on float while away, save generator time. Since those are AGM batteries, there is some good, and some bad,
      Good is they have low self-discharge, small array can maintain them,
      Bad is that you have to blackout for 4-5 hours to let batteries stabilize before you can voltage check for charge level, Sealed batteries = no SG test possible
      Bad is you absolutely need perfect charge regulation to not over or under charge the expensive batteries,

      Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
      || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
      || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

      solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
      gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

      Comment

      • Moonie
        Junior Member
        • Jan 2017
        • 14

        #4
        Previous owner said the last time the tank was filled they didn't say anything about it. I'll probably get it filled this summer. So even with a good controller like a midnight you have to black out? How often do you have to do this? I've never heard that before. I don't want to do lead acid because there might be times of the year I'm not there for a month or two.

        Moonie

        Comment

        • Sunking
          Solar Fanatic
          • Feb 2010
          • 23301

          #5
          If I had to guess you do not own the LP tank. Usually, not always, dealers loan you the tank and maintain it. The catch is you must use the dealer to refill the tanks. If you do own it all regulatory compliance is on you. If the certifications are out of date, suppliers will not refill the tank. At least they are not suppose to.
          MSEE, PE

          Comment

          • bcroe
            Solar Fanatic
            • Jan 2012
            • 5198

            #6
            Originally posted by Moonie
            The countertop microwave is going away. Moonie
            A microwave oven is a pretty efficient way to provide short bursts of high power heat; I'd keep it if you
            have the surge capability. Do check its standby power, which in my case used more KWH in a day
            than several minutes of cooking.

            You can get quite accurate measures of appliance use over time with a KILL-A-WATT meter, has been
            used on every circuit here. For 240V circuits I have a used regular revenue grade KWH meter, cheap
            surplus with all the "smart" meters going in. There are many battery powered appliances available
            that not only have low drain, but typically ZERO standby drain. Bruce Roe

            Comment

            • Sunking
              Solar Fanatic
              • Feb 2010
              • 23301

              #7
              Originally posted by bcroe
              A microwave oven is a pretty efficient way to provide short bursts of high power heat
              Ditto, MW and Induction are the most efficient means to cook with electricity. However in an off-grid system cooking, hot water, heating, and generator fuel should use LPG. small Microwave is OK in an RV, and has some niche applications in a off-grid home.

              Good luck to you.

              MSEE, PE

              Comment

              • Mike90250
                Moderator
                • May 2009
                • 16020

                #8
                Battery testing
                With a hydrometer to test the Specific Gravity (density) of the acid/electrolyte
                or measure the voltage.
                If the voltage is measured, the battery must sit idle (no charge or discharge) for several hours to stableize internally, Then the voltage reading can be somewhat trusted

                Both methods require the actual temperature of the battery be factored too. Cooler or hotter affects the reading (SG or Voltage) but not the actual charge level.

                The midnight classic simply measures the voltage ( I have one) and the WhizBangJr only measures amps to determine when the battery approaches full, That is all it can do, is determine when the battery is close to full and then stop charging, the WBJ does not "coulomb count" amps into or out of the battery.
                Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
                || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
                || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

                solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
                gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

                Comment

                • Moonie
                  Junior Member
                  • Jan 2017
                  • 14

                  #9
                  Any thoughts on running the central a/c on the inverter pass through? Using the 8kw generac.

                  Comment

                  • Sunking
                    Solar Fanatic
                    • Feb 2010
                    • 23301

                    #10
                    Originally posted by Moonie
                    Any thoughts on running the central a/c on the inverter pass through? Using the 8kw generac.
                    What size HVAC?
                    MSEE, PE

                    Comment

                    • KMac
                      Member
                      • Apr 2016
                      • 66

                      #11
                      Ceiling fan calculation is way off, isn't it? 3 fans for 12 hours at 120 watts each? Over 4,000, not 360. Am I misreading this?

                      Comment

                      • Moonie
                        Junior Member
                        • Jan 2017
                        • 14

                        #12
                        Kmac, ya that was my bad.

                        I realized last night when I couldn't sleep(anyone else have this problem) that I was approaching this ALL wrong. Since all of the appliances are propane there are only a few light loads in the house, along with the 3 240v loads. Instead of installing a very expensive system I'm just going to install a 12v breaker panel and convert the entire house sans A/C, washer/dryer and well pump to 12v lights and fixtures. There are 3 ceiling fans that I'll replace with 12v RV ceiling fans, all lights to 12v 6500K LED lights, all switches to 12v switches and all receptacles to marine grade 12v plugs. Since the heaviest load will be a my CPAP at 87w(verified by my KILLAWATT) the existing romex will be more then sufficient.

                        For the AC side I'll just put in a smaller breaker panel for the 3 items that require 240v and run those off the genset when I need to. The cabin is 1 bedroom, 1 bath with a loft so the amount of fixtures and plugs that I have to replace and convert is small. This is going to save me 1000's of $$ and greatly simplifies my system and needs. I should be able to get away with 1 12v agm 230ah, 2 270w PV's, and a good cheap charge controller like a morning star.

                        Worse case again 12v style:

                        10 - 0.06 amp LED bulbs @ 12 hours a day: 7.2 AH
                        3 - 1amp ceiling fans 12 hours a day: 36 AH
                        1 - 4amp TV/DVD 4 hours a day: 16 AH
                        1 - 800mAH radio 4 hours a day: 3.2 AH
                        1 - 7.2AH philips respironics 8 hours a day: 57.6 AH
                        = 120 AH x 1.5 fudge 180 AH @ 12v a day

                        180AH @ 12v a day is absolute worse case scenario and I highly doubt I ever approach that. The cabin has big windows and during the day you don't need interior lights. Only time I'll need the fans is when the propane fireplace is running to circulate the hot air. I can always double up on the battery bank for cheap if I need to in the future.

                        Thoughts, concerns?

                        Moonie

                        Comment

                        • Sunking
                          Solar Fanatic
                          • Feb 2010
                          • 23301

                          #13
                          Originally posted by Moonie
                          Kmac, ya that was my bad.

                          I realized last night when I couldn't sleep(anyone else have this problem) that I was approaching this ALL wrong. Since all of the appliances are propane there are only a few light loads in the house, along with the 3 240v loads. Instead of installing a very expensive system I'm just going to install a 12v breaker panel and convert the entire house sans A/C, washer/dryer and well pump to 12v lights and fixtures. There are 3 ceiling fans that I'll replace with 12v RV ceiling fans, all lights to 12v 6500K LED lights, all switches to 12v switches and all receptacles to marine grade 12v plugs. Since the heaviest load will be a my CPAP at 87w(verified by my KILLAWATT) the existing romex will be more then sufficient.

                          For the AC side I'll just put in a smaller breaker panel for the 3 items that require 240v and run those off the genset when I need to. The cabin is 1 bedroom, 1 bath with a loft so the amount of fixtures and plugs that I have to replace and convert is small. This is going to save me 1000's of $$ and greatly simplifies my system and needs. I should be able to get away with 1 12v agm 230ah, 2 270w PV's, and a good cheap charge controller like a morning star.

                          Worse case again 12v style:

                          10 - 0.06 amp LED bulbs @ 12 hours a day: 7.2 AH
                          3 - 1amp ceiling fans 12 hours a day: 36 AH
                          1 - 4amp TV/DVD 4 hours a day: 16 AH
                          1 - 800mAH radio 4 hours a day: 3.2 AH
                          1 - 7.2AH philips respironics 8 hours a day: 57.6 AH
                          = 120 AH x 1.5 fudge 180 AH @ 12v a day

                          180AH @ 12v a day is absolute worse case scenario and I highly doubt I ever approach that. The cabin has big windows and during the day you don't need interior lights. Only time I'll need the fans is when the propane fireplace is running to circulate the hot air. I can always double up on the battery bank for cheap if I need to in the future.

                          Thoughts, concerns?

                          Moonie
                          Yeah 12 volts is a huge mistake. Get out of that 12 volt toy box you are trapped in.

                          MSEE, PE

                          Comment

                          • Moonie
                            Junior Member
                            • Jan 2017
                            • 14

                            #14
                            Sunking how about you expand on why it's a "toy box". What I'm talking about seems to be good enough for RVs and Boats.

                            Comment

                            • Sunking
                              Solar Fanatic
                              • Feb 2010
                              • 23301

                              #15
                              Originally posted by Moonie
                              Sunking how about you expand on why it's a "toy box". What I'm talking about seems to be good enough for RVs and Boats.
                              Fair enough.

                              Yep good enough for RV's and Boats that use extremely short runs, and for very expensive low quality gizmos devices that use 12 volt power. As long as you have real deep pockets for a lot of oversized wire and do not mind taking much higher fire risk go for it. Secondly 12 volts is extremely limited. With an 80 amp controller you maximum limit is 1000 watts on the panels and Inverter. Lastly it is highly unlikely your 12 volt Inverter is made for a structure that uses premises wiring. Most are made for Mobile applications. If your Inverter has 120 volt receptacles, you have a mobile Inverter.

                              At 24 volt battery and a 80 amp controller you move up to 2000 watts for growth, and at 48 volts is 4000 watts. So you have yourself trapped in a 12 volt box. Bet you use 12 volt batteries right? Batteries are not 12 volts.

                              MSEE, PE

                              Comment

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