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  • #16
    How do you get info from the cameras to the phone ? Don't you need an 8 port wireless router? Have to figure that power draw too. Do you want any IR illumination for night time (at 6w/cam doesn't sound like it's included. Or put the cams on a day/night timer if you can't use them at night,
    Being able to keep it at 12V sounds good IF the cameras POE will work up to 15VDC AND you can power a 8 port router. What about the POE voltage injection, does that gadget come with the cam, or do they expect the router to supply it (only some routers support POE)

    Those are 30V panels, so you need a MPPT controller to run at 12V.
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

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    • #17
      Thanks for that ,i am not sure on the camera usage ,i should try and figure it out at home with a meter and stream it to phone .
      the internet is coming from the farm house that is 400 yards away but apperently i can get this to work or so i have been told.
      as it stands i may not have the luxury of 8 cameras and may need to just go with the necessity probably 3-4 .
      i really appreciate the info from all the members with the info i have .the choice is i go smaller on the cameras or i bite the bullet for more money and run mains power down.
      being iggnorant to the cost of the equipment that is needed to do this the mains option is not a huge amount more ,just a bit more labour for me and a digger.

      Thanks Again and i will post back if i do need more help on the set up.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by Alec m View Post
        Thanks for that ,i am not sure on the camera usage ,i should try and figure it out at home with a meter and stream it to phone .
        the internet is coming from the farm house that is 400 yards away but apperently i can get this to work or so i have been told.
        as it stands i may not have the luxury of 8 cameras and may need to just go with the necessity probably 3-4 .
        i really appreciate the info from all the members with the info i have .the choice is i go smaller on the cameras or i bite the bullet for more money and run mains power down.
        being iggnorant to the cost of the equipment that is needed to do this the mains option is not a huge amount more ,just a bit more labour for me and a digger.

        Thanks Again and i will post back if i do need more help on the set up.
        The decision should also include how important is it to keep all of your cameras working 24/7. Sometimes spending a little more for security helps people sleep at night.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by SunEagle View Post

          That is one option. Yet even at 48volt the wire would have to be pretty big to run it 80 yards.
          Maybe not. For openers you could maintain efficiency with only 1/16th the copper at 4 times the voltage (48V).
          But in addition the voltage down converter at the camera load end would be regulated, and give 12V even with
          a considerable tranmission loss. So some transmission efficiency could be traded for copper savings.

          I would run some numbers and also see what 24V looks like. Running a 24V plant with 12V down converters
          at loads is easy to do with available equipment. Stuff gets a lot more expensive at 48V.

          However, camera cables could get into trouble with noise on ground loops. Use of radio links or isolated
          converters might be be necessary. Bruce Roe

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          • #20
            Originally posted by bcroe View Post

            Maybe not. For openers you could maintain efficiency with only 1/16th the copper at 4 times the voltage (48V).
            But in addition the voltage down converter at the camera load end would be regulated, and give 12V even with
            a considerable tranmission loss. So some transmission efficiency could be traded for copper savings.

            I would run some numbers and also see what 24V looks like. Running a 24V plant with 12V down converters
            at loads is easy to do with available equipment. Stuff gets a lot more expensive at 48V.

            However, camera cables could get into trouble with noise on ground loops. Use of radio links or isolated
            converters might be be necessary. Bruce Roe
            The size wire required still comes down to calculating the voltage drop to be ~ 2%.

            For a 12 Volt system using say 5 amps you could use a #14 AWG if the distance was less than 9 feet but even a #2 AWG will only go about 145 ft or 50 yrds. So you would need a much bigger wire.

            Now if you convert that 12 v DC to 120v AC and you can run those 5 amps on a #10 wire for about 225 ft or 75 yrds.

            While inverting from DC battery voltage to 120v AC and then converting back to DC for the camera can get expensive I believe most security cameras come with an AC to DC converter which means just one DC to AC inverter to power those cameras.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by SunEagle View Post

              The size wire required still comes down to calculating the voltage drop to be ~ 2%.

              For a 12 Volt system using say 5 amps you could use a #14 AWG if the distance was less
              than 9 feet but even a #2 AWG will only go about 145 ft or 50 yrds. So you would need a
              much bigger wire.

              Now if you convert that 12 v DC to 120v AC and you can run those 5 amps on a #10 wire
              for about 225 ft or 75 yrds.

              While inverting from DC battery voltage to 120v AC and then converting back to DC for
              the camera can get expensive I believe most security cameras come with an AC to DC
              converter which means just one DC to AC inverter to power those cameras.
              Sorry, I don't agree there is a need to maintain the higher voltage at 2%. If a convenient gauge gives 5% drop
              at 24V (for example), the 12V converter will regulate it right back to 1%. Trade a watt for copper.

              A lot of AC to DC converters in the past have measured out as extremely inefficient on my bench, when
              lightly loaded. Some of the latest energy stars do much better, check it out. Found this on my phantom
              load elimination campaign. Bruce

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              • #22
                Originally posted by bcroe View Post

                Sorry, I don't agree there is a need to maintain the higher voltage at 2%. If a convenient gauge gives 5% drop
                at 24V (for example), the 12V converter will regulate it right back to 1%. Trade a watt for copper.

                A lot of AC to DC converters in the past have measured out as extremely inefficient on my bench, when
                lightly loaded. Some of the latest energy stars do much better, check it out. Found this on my phantom
                load elimination campaign. Bruce
                I guess it comes down to exactly what the minimum DC voltage those cameras can run on. It could be +/- 5% or less depending what the OP purchases.

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by SunEagle View Post

                  I guess it comes down to exactly what the minimum DC voltage those cameras can run on. It could be +/- 5% or less depending what the OP purchases.
                  The camera won't see a voltage drop, it still gets exactly 12V from the output of its local converter. Bruce

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Originally posted by bcroe View Post

                    The camera won't see a voltage drop, it still gets exactly 12V from the output of its local converter. Bruce
                    Yes if you use a local converter.

                    I was talking about an 80 yard wire run from the 12volt battery. That distance can drop the 12v considerably unless the camera works on a low voltage.

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