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Help with wrong installation of inverter.. :(

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  • #16
    Originally posted by Alkaline View Post
    It works!!!! I mean the light went on! And it seems stable! It's been on the last five minutes only but it shouldn't if was damaged, right?

    Oh em geeeee! I'm so happy!!!! But let me know if I shouldn't be this happy just yet! 🙆😀😀

    plug something into it like an incandesent light bulb and make sure it works...
    check temp of the inverter. it shouldn't get hot or even warm with less than a 100w load on it.

    if it works for the bulb try a bit larger load, etc.

    OutBack FP1 w/ CS6P-250P http://bit.ly/1Sg5VNH

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    • #17
      Originally posted by SunEagle View Post

      Keep an eye on it and check to see if it is getting hot. Remember you did mention it got very hot before and started to smell. Neither of those actions are good for electronics.
      Definitely I haven't moved away from it so far. Yes it did get hot and started to smell. But I was skeptical on the smell, as it wasn't that strong. It took like 3 hours to cool down I remember. Hence I thought it was burnt and gone. Maybe connecting the batteries load to the 'AC output wasn't that bad as the other way around? In any case, I'll follow your advice and be careful with it. Thanks.

      Originally posted by ButchDeal View Post


      plug something into it like an incandesent light bulb and make sure it works...
      check temp of the inverter. it shouldn't get hot or even warm with less than a 100w load on it.

      if it works for the bulb try a bit larger load, etc.
      I was just thinking on doing that; starting giving it 'work' little by little. Will see how it goes and come back here to report how it goes for the next day. Thank you! And everybody else who helped me!

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      • #18
        Even if it's working today, something extreme happened to it, and it should at least be opened and inspected. If you open it, you void your warranty,
        And you could write to the Mfg and ask them what could happen. But getting hot and smelling bad is not a indicator of no damage,
        Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
        || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
        || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

        solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
        gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

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        • #19
          It's been almost two days and it's still working well! I have been adding load little by little; started with a led bulb (6w), then added charging my phone, a home tool, my GoPro, DSLR camera and then even my computer. Today I plan to add the fridge! Is a low consumption model though (it says 70w). It gets a bit, just a bit warm with all the load mentioned before. Which I'm guessing is completely normal. Any thoughts?

          Now I have another 'problem': the controller doesn't go on. I thought it could be the cables been somewhat lose as when removing and putting them back in it worked, but then it wil stop working again when turning the circuit breaker off/on.. I think it could be the circuit breaker. can it? It looks a bit cheap too (Or are they all the same?). Well I want to try it with another CB. But the only spare one I have at hand is rated at 20A, whereas the one installed is rated at 32A. So my question is: Can I use the 20A CB? Brand is good, better than the one installed, if that matters.
          Last edited by Alkaline; 10-28-2016, 09:35 AM.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by Alkaline View Post
            Today I plan to add the fridge! Is a low consumption model though (it says 70w). It gets a bit, just a bit warm with all the load mentioned before. Which I'm guessing is completely normal. Any thoughts?
            Refrigerators are MUCH harder to run than any of the other devices you mentioned. 70W is probably an average, not a peak; even a small fridge can take 2000 watts to start up.

            Now I have another 'problem': the controller doesn't go on. I thought it could be the cables been somewhat lose as when removing and putting them back in it worked, but then it wil stop working again when turning the circuit breaker off/on.. I think it could be the circuit breaker. can it? It looks a bit cheap too (Or are they all the same?). Well I want to try it with another CB. But the only spare one I have at hand is rated at 20A, whereas the one installed is rated at 32A. So my question is: Can I use the 20A CB? Brand is good, better than the one installed, if that matters.
            You can use a 20A circuit breaker as long as you are passing less than 20A (16A is a good max.)

            Make sure you are turning on the battery side of your charge controller FIRST. Many charge controllers don't work correctly if you connect solar side first.

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            • #21
              Originally posted by jflorey2 View Post
              Refrigerators are MUCH harder to run than any of the other devices you mentioned. 70W is probably an average, not a peak; even a small fridge can take 2000 watts to start up.
              I've been using that fridge before with the same setup 24/7 no problems and without running out of electricity. Of course now with what happened.. I don't know. On the internet I find this info about the power consumption of this fridge: "19.8 kwh/month". But I don't know how to interpret it.

              You can use a 20A circuit breaker as long as you are passing less than 20A (16A is a good max.)

              Make sure you are turning on the battery side of your charge controller FIRST. Many charge controllers don't work correctly if you connect solar side first
              How do I know how much I'm passing? And yes, forget now I check everything twice before turning it/on anything and I have read the manual I dont know many times 😂. Thank you!

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Alkaline View Post
                I've been using that fridge before with the same setup 24/7 no problems and without running out of electricity. Of course now with what happened.. I don't know. On the internet I find this info about the power consumption of this fridge: "19.8 kwh/month". But I don't know how to interpret it.
                That's the amount of energy it needs to run for a month in average conditions (likely 72F, no sun exposure.) The power is different - that's the amount of power it needs to start its compressor.

                If it worked before on your inverter it will likely work again. Most inverters have a pretty high surge rating.
                How do I know how much I'm passing? And yes, forget now I check everything twice before turning it/on anything and I have read the manual I dont know many times 😂. Thank you!
                Best way is with a meter - either a conductive one (by removing one wire) or an inductive one (that clamps around the wire.) Or you can just calculate it - based on your numbers you'll be sending about 24 amps through that MPPT charge controller during full power operation. Or you can read the Imp from the data sheet on your panels, add them all and that's your number.

                You can also test the "bad" breaker with an ohmmeter to see if that's the problem. Should be zero ohms when closed, infinite when open.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by jflorey2 View Post
                  That's the amount of energy it needs to run for a month in average conditions (likely 72F, no sun exposure.) The power is different - that's the amount of power it needs to start its compressor.

                  If it worked before on your inverter it will likely work again. Most inverters have a pretty high surge rating.
                  Ok so it should be fine. I'm attaching a picture of the specs found on a label on the inside of the fridge in case it helps.

                  Best way is with a meter - either a conductive one (by removing one wire) or an inductive one (that clamps around the wire.) Or you can just calculate it - based on your numbers you'll be sending about 24 amps through that MPPT charge controller during full power operation. Or you can read the Imp from the data sheet on your panels, add them all and that's your number.

                  You can also test the "bad" breaker with an ohmmeter to see if that's the problem. Should be zero ohms when closed, infinite when open.
                  I have found this little 'digital voltage tester' which has the word inductance written on it. Do you think I could use it? How? As it only has a screwdriver tip. I have attached a picture of it and a pictures of the label on the back of one of the solar panels. The other one is similar, 285w instead of 305w so I guess it should have similar lmp?

                  I don't know if it matters but the circuit breaker will be used between controller/battery. I have just tried it with the 20A circuit breaker and the controller now goes on. So the problem really was the circuit breaker. But now I'm worried about the Amps that I'll be passing through it!

                  Thank you!
                  Attached Files
                  Last edited by Alkaline; 10-28-2016, 01:40 PM.

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