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  • Off grid cabin solar/battery system

    We have a small cabin that we use periodically on weekends. My Honda EU2000 does pretty much whatever I ask. It does struggle a bit with the microwave if it is on full power but I seldom use it and it's an inverter type so I can run at mid power. I have decided that I would like to have a live system and as always I tend to overkill things. I'm debating between hiring it done and DIY. I'm really kind of a DIY type of guy, but I don't want to have regrets and I'm not quite sure that I understand things correctly.

    My thought is to use an Outback FP1-VFX3524 3500 packaged unit. This is way more than we need. If I go this route does that get me into 3 system component groupings?

    IE 1) Inverter and all controls 2) battery bank/box 3) panels and racking

    Am I missing anything?

    When feeding my breaker panel with a 110v inverter do I just tie the 2 hot bars together?

    Genset charging?

    Presently I have a simple motor base plug (male outlet) on a box that my genset feeds and both bars are fed the same 110v. If I understand correctly my 110v feed from the genset should now be fed to my FP1 unit?

    Battery plan is 4) 8L16 units. Insulated battery box outside Yeah or nay? Would really help to save space in the small cabin. We seldom go long with utilization and load is quite light. Typically the little Honda just idles as everything is energy efficient. Maybe 2 hrs of TV in the evening if that and a bit during the day if the weather is crap.

    Roof is a 6/12 pitch. I believe I will want to tip the panels up to 40°? This is in Central WI. Thinking 3 panels in the 800-1000 watt total range.

  • #2
    If you used it more often than occasional weekends, I would strongly recommend that you look into a more costly hybrid inverter with "generator support". Among other things it would allow the generator and inverter to work together to run your microwave.
    You would leave generator and inverter wired to your house supply panel at all times because the inverter, in effect, includes a transfer switch.

    With lower usage and time to recharge your batteries from PV during the week the financial aspects probably would not work out for you.
    SunnyBoy 3000 US, 18 BP Solar 175B panels.

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    • #3
      You should NOT wire the breaker bus bars in the panel together. That can overload the neutral return wire and start a fire,
      It also prevents you from having any 240V loads
      Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
      || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
      || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

      solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
      gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

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      • #4
        Originally posted by Mike90250 View Post
        You should NOT wire the breaker bus bars in the panel together. That can overload the neutral return wire and start a fire,
        It also prevents you from having any 240V loads
        That is good advice, but only applies if any of the branch or feeder circuits from the panel are what is called Edison or MultiWire Branch Circuits (MWBCs). That is a circuit that uses two wires from opposite line buses and a single shared neutral. If you tie the two buses to one source you can get double the design current through the shared neutral.
        But if each 120V branch circuit has its own neutral it should be just fine.
        The inverter leads should be wired to the panel with wires that can carry the full rated inverter output, of course.
        SunnyBoy 3000 US, 18 BP Solar 175B panels.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by inetdog View Post
          If you used it more often than occasional weekends, I would strongly recommend that you look into a more costly hybrid inverter with "generator support". Among other things it would allow the generator and inverter to work together to run your microwave.
          You would leave generator and inverter wired to your house supply panel at all times because the inverter, in effect, includes a transfer switch.

          With lower usage and time to recharge your batteries from PV during the week the financial aspects probably would not work out for you.
          OutBack’s pre-assembled and pre-wired FLEXpower systems are now equipped with the updated FXR Series Grid/Hybrid inverter/chargers. Programmable for seven different modes including GridZero ,which blends utility power and stored renewable energy, minimizing grid dependence; also Support Mode for seamless generator integration.

          I think the above kind of gets me there? Still trying to muddle through the details.
          Last edited by Diesel Pro; 09-13-2016, 09:53 AM.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Mike90250 View Post
            You should NOT wire the breaker bus bars in the panel together. That can overload the neutral return wire and start a fire,
            It also prevents you from having any 240V loads
            I went back and checked my pics. The panel is not tied together what I did was make an extension cord to go from a typical 110v slip in to the twist lock and then I set it up to feed both line terminals into the building. I guess you could say SSDD but...

            Looking at adding one of these simple gizmos:

            http://www.geninterlock.com/wp-conte...lg-600x600.jpg

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