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How much performance boost comes from 24V upgrade?

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  • How much performance boost comes from 24V upgrade?

    Hi

    Due to recently finding out that my MPPT controller isnt fully utilizing the 550W of solar panels, I have contemplated wiring my (4) 6V golf cart batteries as 24V to alleviate the problem. And this is under the assumption that my batteries will charge faster under the same sunny conditions. I will have to use a DC/DC convertor to step the 24V back down to 12V going into my RV. So that leads me to new questions.

    Will stepping a more efficient voltage of 24V back down to 12V going into the RV make any difference as far as performance in lighting or appliances? That is, compared with my original set up of 12V battery configuration? The main reason I want to know this is because when I plug my camper into 110V 30A grid power, the lights and everything get super bright. The fans even run better. But not near as well just running off the batteries. When I added the last 2 batteries, I saw no increase in performance. So I supposed it was because of using 12V vs 24V. Obviously I cannot change the fact that the camper uses 12V for everything. But will configuring the batteries as 24V, then stepping back down to 12V still give the lights at least a slight increase in performance?

  • #2
    Originally posted by joem789 View Post
    Hi

    Due to recently finding out that my MPPT controller isnt fully utilizing the 550W of solar panels, I have contemplated wiring my (4) 6V golf cart batteries as 24V to alleviate the problem. And this is under the assumption that my batteries will charge faster under the same sunny conditions. I will have to use a DC/DC convertor to step the 24V back down to 12V going into my RV. So that leads me to new questions.

    Will stepping a more efficient voltage of 24V back down to 12V going into the RV make any difference as far as performance in lighting or appliances? That is, compared with my original set up of 12V battery configuration? The main reason I want to know this is because when I plug my camper into 110V 30A grid power, the lights and everything get super bright. The fans even run better. But not near as well just running off the batteries. When I added the last 2 batteries, I saw no increase in performance. So I supposed it was because of using 12V vs 24V. Obviously I cannot change the fact that the camper uses 12V for everything. But will configuring the batteries as 24V, then stepping back down to 12V still give the lights at least a slight increase in performance?

    it sounds like your DC 12V wiring from the battery to the distribution point is not up to the task. The 30A AC connection likely hits a 12V charger very near to the 12V distribution if not directly part of it. This will have good voltage at that point. Your battery is likely some distance away from this point and you have voltage drop.
    Check your voltage (when not connected to AC) at the battery and again at the 12V fuse panel.
    Your CC could be suffering from this same undersized wire.
    OutBack FP1 w/ CS6P-250P http://bit.ly/1Sg5VNH

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    • #3
      Hi the volt meter I have is a cheap chinese one that checks 10V. lol. I originally bought it for checking ohms. So I will be picking up a good one in the next day or so to get a proper digital reading. In the meantime, I checked it using the 250V range just to get some idea. And the needle swings a little higher at the batteries than at the fuse panel. So there is definitely some type of voltage drop. Just not sure how much yet. It looks like the RV wiring is a gauge is smaller than what I used for the solar panels and batteries. And it runs a good 20ft before landing at the fuse panel. I am not sure what the minimum gauge should be. Thanks.

      I almost forgot to mention. Assuming the RV wiring is a little small, since I have to wire my batteries to 24V, would it make more sense to send the 24V through the present wiring and convert it back down to 12V at the fuse panel? Seems like that might save me the headache of trying to upgrade the wire.

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      • #4
        If your battery is reading 10 volts standing, battery is being damaged if not already destroyed. 10.6 volts is considered a dead battery. under 10 volts are generally not recoverable. You need to get the battery on a stable stiff charge source ASAP. If it takes a charge at all, will likely fail a standard load test. battery needs replaced.

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        • #5
          Yes, get that meter you need a better reading than 10 volts.

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          • #6
            Pardon me. But read my post again. My batteries did not give me a 10 volt reading. I was merely stating that my inadequate multimeter is made with a 10V setting instead of a 12V one. Thank China for such a worthless product. I switched it to the next setting, which is 250VDC. So I simply compared the needle swing I got at two different points, the batteries and the fuse panel inside the camper. There was definitely a lower swing at the fuse panel. So there is a voltage drop. But its impossible to tell how much until I stop by the store and pick up a proper volt meter. The batteries are likely fine and being charged well. The MPPT controller shows them to be fully charged by 12 Noon each day. And the batteries were bought this year.

            I appreciate the helpful comments. But would certainly like to know if it would make sense to just run 24V through the present wiring to avoid a rewire. And then put a 24VDC-to-12VDC converter close to the fuse panel and tie it in? Thanks!

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            • #7
              Very good then, I did misread, I prefer 24+ volt battery banks even when my primary usage is 12 volt appliances, 24 volts is good for longer runs and the step down converters are inexpensive and simple to install.

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