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  • Small Camping Setup

    Ok, as a family of five, soon to be six, and our love for camping, we needed a solution for "streamlining" our camping trips. With so much stuff, it is a PITA to load everything up and hit the road for a weekend. Especially since the vehicle would be very cramped with all of us, our dogs, and our camping gear. With having four females, there are certain "comforts" that is required for our camping trips. Such as a shower, toilet, etc. etc. With the need of running water, I knew I was going to have to either have electricity, or a gravity fed system. My experience with the solar water bags automatically took that option off the table. So an electric pump it was. I also like the option of being able to run a small inverter for an air mattress pump. With having no experience with solar, I started to do some research on the trusty ole Google. Needless to say, I became very confused in a short amount of time. Now, by no means am I a solar expert or an electrical engineer. Just an ole Paramedic with a broad sense of knowledge and the ability to just figure stuff out. After hours of reading some very useful posts and resources and probably four times as much as useless posts, I decided to get started.

    So, I purchased a 4x6 enclosed cargo trailer. That way all I would have to do is hook it up and go; keeping everything loaded in it would cut the process down exponentially. It also gave me a great place to mount a couple solar panels. The "remote" places we go camping, I needed something small, maneuverable, and light especially since we don't use camp grounds. This thing only weighs 600lbs empty.

    IMG_20150801_1225192092.jpg

    Next came the solar panels. I originally wanted just one large 280w panel to cut down on connections and have the max amount of wattage possible, but the problem I ran into was it was going to have to be freighted from the ones that I found, and the sheer size of them on a small trailer immediately excluded them. Even though I had 4x6 of trailer space, (a little wider on the outside, 4x6 is internal) I knew I wouldn't have that much space mounting them, considering the v-nose trailer, you lose about 2 foot of parallel sidewalls. So, I decided to use 2x 100w panels. The typical "Z" bracket mount option for 100w panels I wasn't a fan of. So I decided to use a ladder rack type mount. That way, I could limit the amount holes in the roof of the trailer. These rack systems (aluminum) are meant to be used with 2x4's but that just wasn't going to cut it. I initially was going to use aluminum tubing, but the cost alone was going to be crazy expensive (I know, kinda amusing I mention cost, considering I bought a new trailer just for this. I couldn't justify the cost when there had to be another option.) So, I decided to use SuperStrut. I think I actually remember seeing someone use this on another solar project, maybe that's where I got the idea.... Who knows? Anyway, 30 foot of 1-5/8x13/16 was purchased.

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    Last edited by Medic357; 08-29-2017, 04:39 PM.

  • #2
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    As you can possibly tell, one of the panel frames came bent, but it didn't prevent it from still being mounted with existing holes. Four channels on two panels are probably overkilling it but I didn't want to risk flexing them driving down the road at 60mph.


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    I decided to turn the four brackets in the middle (front and back) offset that way I would be able to mount LED studded flood lights when or if I decide I want to add them. We all know I'm going to ...
    Last edited by Medic357; 08-29-2017, 07:44 PM.

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    • #3
      Now, for the inside. I needed a way to mount everything and keep it protected from. That way all of my crap wouldn't slide against anything to pull anything loose or block air flow around it. I wanted something that was solid and had the capabilities of being expandable in the future when/if I decide to add more batteries (again, we all know I will.) So after some contemplating, I chose to go with the e-track mount system. It was convenient since they make 2x4 brackets for them as well. I bought 4 of the 24" tracks for the sidewalls as 12 of the single mounts for support braces and tie-down point for other projects. Those were pretty cheap but came unfinished, so I had to paint them. Anywho.. The reason I used the 24" tracks for the sidewalls is I assumed that there was a possibility of the metal studs on the trailer weren't parallel with each other and I wanted some adjustability to square everything up. So measuring and marking 38 times, I attached them to the walls with self-tapping screws, pre-drilling each one. I know I know everyone says you don't have to but it helps cut the threads cleanly when the cutters on the screws are nice and sharp. Instead of 2x4's I used 2x6's and notched the ones on the bottom so it would sit closer to the floor. Everything is bolted together with 1/4" bolts. I am a horrible picture taker when I get in the middle of a project. If I had to do it all over again, I would have just done a timelapse with the ole GoPro.
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      Last edited by Medic357; 08-29-2017, 05:05 PM.

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      • #4
        20170829_132740.jpg20170826_195657.jpg ​​​​​​​
        So there it is in all its glory. The inside is eventually going to get carpeted... eventually... NOW, on to the technical stuff.

        Two-100w panels wired in series, 8awg wire coming from the panels through the dreaded holes in the roof, coming into a 30A circuit breaker then to my 30A MPPT charge controller. 12awg wire with a 30A inline fuse running to my batteries. Speaking of batteries, I haven't mentioned those yet. I have 2-6v 230ah golf cart batteries in series. From there, 1/0 wire runs into a battery shut-off switch then into a 3/8" junction post block. Out of the + side, I've ran 2awg to a small 500w inverter. Overkill on the wire for this inverter but I am going to upgrade to a larger pure sine inverter soon, I had this one laying around. From the outlet of the inverter, I have a small piece of 12/2 wire running to an electrical outlet box wired into a single outlet. From the post block, I also have 6awg running to a 12-circuit fuse block for my 12v accessories. I have 2-10A cigarette lighter plugs as well. My portable shower setup will run off of the cigarette lighter plug. I may do a write up on that if someone would be interested in it?!?!

        On the negative side, I have a 100A/75mv shunt. From the shunt, I ran 1/0 to another junction post block. Again, running to my inverter and my fuse block.

        I also have a temperature probe connected to my charge controller that came with it.

        Before anyone mentions anything about my flooded batteries being enclosed. I have ventilation holes on the front and back on opposite side at the top venting to the outside. On the load side of the charge controller, have a 12v timer that controls a marine bilge fan that sucks air from a hole I cut in the floor to circulate air throughout the trailer. I have vent ports that I am going to install in the plywood enclosure possibly but there is a 2" gap about 3' long along the curved part of the top. I probably won't put the vents in until I carpet the trailer since that gap will close up a little and make it look super cool!

        The charge controller meter is ran with cat5e that I had laying around to a small project box that I had. As well as the meter that connects to the shunt. I have the shunt wired to monitor discharge rate. Even though I can do this with the MT50, I don't like having to navigate through it. So I can quickly see charge rate and discharge at a glance. I also have a small string of LED lights that are crazy bright. I will list a link to everything below. Hope this may have been informative for someone to simplify a small setup that seems to be hard to find. And of course, (kind of expected) criticism is welcome as long as it is constructive.
        20170829_162109.jpg20170829_162116.jpg20170829_161300.jpg20170829_161248.jpg

        There is a plastic cable entrance under all of that Sikaflex... I told you I don't like holes through a roof!!! I tend to get carried away with sealants.

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        Parts List-
        Batteries- https://www.batteriesplus.com/batter...cle/6/sligc115
        Solar Panels-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
        Charge Controller-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
        Battery Switch-https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/bwd-battery-disconnect-switch-s5404/20971921-P?searchTerm=battery+disconnect
        Circuit Breaker x2-https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-CB18.../dp/B00DIGK346
        8awg MC4 Connectors-http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solar-Panel-Original-MC4-Multi-Contact-Solar-Connectors-UL-for-8-AWG-Wire-/401361010579?
        hash=item5d72faff93:g:L7UAAOSwIjJZXqwP

        Bilge Fan-http://www.ebay.com/itm/AM-Marine-Bo...72.m2749.l2649
        12v Cigarette Outlet-http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-Dual-...72.m2749.l2649
        E-track 2x4 brackets-http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-E-Track-W...72.m2749.l2649
        Single E-track-http://www.ebay.com/itm/One-Dozen-Sn...72.m2749.l2649
        8awg wire- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
        Sikaflex 221-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
        MC4 Crimper-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
        Cable Entry-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
        MC4 Tool-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
        24-inch E-track rail-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
        1/0 Cable-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
        Junction Post Block-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
        Ammeter with shunt-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
        LED lights for interior-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
        Switch for lights-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
        2awg Inverter Cable-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
        Lug Crimper-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
        Trailer vents-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
        Bilge fan duct-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
        Duct mounting plate-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
        Fuse Block-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
        6awg Wire-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
        Last edited by Medic357; 08-30-2017, 05:29 PM.

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        • #5
          Thanks for posting all this, impressive!

          For constructive feedback... 200 W, flat mounted on your roof, is going to have a hard time keeping up with your plans. The minimum recommended charge rate for a 230 Ah battery is C/12 = 19 A, and those panels probably wouldn't produce more than 15 A with an mppt controller even if they were mounted with better tilt. It would be a good idea to get familiar with checking specific gravity on the batteries, so if it turns out that you don't have enough PV for your usage and solar exposure, you can discover that before too much long term battery damage is done.

          Will a generator be in the camping kit, or perhaps a battery isolator so you can charge from the alternator of your car? An AC charger to maintain the batteries at home between trips.might also be useful.
          CS6P-260P/SE3000 - http://tiny.cc/ed5ozx

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          • #6
            How do you like that battery monitor meter? I have two arriving from Amazon tomorrow. Your two pics at the top of post #4 are broken for me. Echo sensij on the undercharging.

            Very nice job on the trailer. Put a couple of ground deployed panels out and get some use out of the controller and batteries.
            Last edited by AzRoute66; 08-29-2017, 06:57 PM.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by sensij View Post
              Thanks for posting all this, impressive!

              For constructive feedback... 200 W, flat mounted on your roof, is going to have a hard time keeping up with your plans. The minimum recommended charge rate for a 230 Ah battery is C/12 = 19 A, and those panels probably wouldn't produce more than 15 A with an mppt controller even if they were mounted with better tilt. It would be a good idea to get familiar with checking specific gravity on the batteries, so if it turns out that you don't have enough PV for your usage and solar exposure, you can discover that before too much long term battery damage is done.

              Will a generator be in the camping kit, or perhaps a battery isolator so you can charge from the alternator of your car? An AC charger to maintain the batteries at home between trips.might also be useful.
              An AC charger is in the works as we speak. I have thought about adding 1-2 more panels mounted to the sides that would pivot. If I add 1-2 more, would I run them series/parallel? Also, any recommendations on an AC charger? Two bank 6v or just a 12v?
              Last edited by Medic357; 08-29-2017, 08:54 PM.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by AzRoute66 View Post
                How do you like that battery monitor meter? I have two arriving from Amazon tomorrow. Your two pics at the top of post #4 are broken for me. Echo sensij on the undercharging.

                Very nice job on the trailer. Put a couple of ground deployed panels out and get some use out of the controller and batteries.
                I really like the meter. Well worth it!! Not sure what the issue is with the pictures. They appear fine on my end.

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                • #9
                  24

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                  • #10
                    Can I see what you did with the shunt? I have a couple of options I'm mulling over for this guy's battery compartment, but seeing yours might give me a third.

                    This might be one of the pictures that is 'broke' for me, if so could you re-post that one or I'll be glad to give you my email address...

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                    • #11
                      [QUOTE=Medic357;n359868]

                      1-2 more panels mounted to the sides that would pivot.?[/QUOTE

                      I was going to mention that until I saw you had already mounted the panels on the roof. If you do side mount a couple more panels you would be able to swing them up to any angle you need. both sides would be able to tilt to the same angle, one side would swing high, the other only tilt a little, for example when the sun is riding low in the sky on those shorter days.

                      2.2kw Suntech mono, Classic 200, NEW Trace SW4024

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by AzRoute66 View Post
                        Can I see what you did with the shunt? I have a couple of options I'm mulling over for this guy's battery compartment, but seeing yours might give me a third.

                        This might be one of the pictures that is 'broke' for me, if so could you re-post that one or I'll be glad to give you my email address...
                        The shunt is mounted directly to the threaded post on the battery. Then the negative wire comes off the other end. I will get a picture of it tomorrow and post it on here.
                        I'm not sure what is wrong with the pictures. Everything appears fine if I am logged in, but it won't show them if I am logged out.... It showes the hyperlink but does nothing.

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                        • #13
                          [QUOTE=littleharbor;n359875]
                          Originally posted by Medic357 View Post

                          1-2 more panels mounted to the sides that would pivot.?[/QUOTE

                          I was going to mention that until I saw you had already mounted the panels on the roof. If you do side mount a couple more panels you would be able to swing them up to any angle you need. both sides would be able to tilt to the same angle, one side would swing high, the other only tilt a little, for example when the sun is riding low in the sky on those shorter days.
                          Yea that's what I had in mind. I haven't quite figured out how to "lock it in place" if I swing it up high enough to view the opposite side.

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                          • #14
                            Maybe a couple sets of long and short arms with multiple holes drilled in them. for those Summer days they would both be relatively flat. I made some tilt brackets before with solid aluminum stock and stainless hardware, wing nuts, aircraft nuts etc. .. They worked well although I didn't need to do the long arm thing. Gotta be able to stand up to gusty wind.
                            Last edited by littleharbor; 08-29-2017, 09:30 PM.
                            2.2kw Suntech mono, Classic 200, NEW Trace SW4024

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                            • #15
                              Galvanic Isolation

                              Is Super Strut Stainless Steel or aluminum ? Did you use all stainless steel bolting hardware ? If galvi or plain steel contacts aluminum, you are setting up a nice little battery, The disimilar metals will corrode the aluminum into white powder
                              Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
                              || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
                              || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

                              solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
                              gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

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