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  • Shed and yard flood lighting

    Well, it seems I have found the proper forum for the project I mentioned in my introduction.

    I am building a shed that I wish to have lit as well as some flood lights for my back yard. Connecting to the grid is actually the high cost choice due to city regulations--certified electrician, work permit, etc.

    I have crunched the numbers based on estimated usage found a nice calculator here: load calculator, I need the following: 100w panel, 10 amp charger, 35AH battery. thanks to this: off-grid calculator

    I plan on using this kit from Missouri Wind and Solar with
    one of these batteries: this from walmart (slightly cheaper with free shipping) or this which has a $95 shipped price tag.

    For circuit protection, I am thinking of getting an automotive fuse block to cover power from the panel, and then power from the battery to the lights. I just need to get blade terminals for the wires.

    right now, I am just unsure what gage wires I will need for CC to battery. Thoughts so far?

  • #2
    Just FYI, posts with multiple links in them often are flagged by the Forum software for Moderator approval before they are released to be seen by both the poster and other members.
    That happened to this post, so it took awhile before it was approved. I have deleted the other post you made while waiting.
    SunnyBoy 3000 US, 18 BP Solar 175B panels.

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    • #3
      That 35Ah battery will get you safely about 100watt hours a day. That is not much to power any wattage flood lights every night for very long.

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      • #4
        inetdog Thanks. I didn't realize there was such a control set up. When I made my second post, it was up within seconds.

        SunEagle I only plan to have the Floodlights (2x 10watt) running for at most 2 hours in the late evening hours (say from 8 to 10 pm) when it is getting dark, but still ok for my kids to play in the back yard. The floodlights are also a supplement to the 2x 13w 120v Floods from my deck (installed last week), I currently can light up about 60% of my yard with those, but seeing the shed I currently have is difficult. Do you have any comment on the walmart vs the altestore battery?

        Sunking I tagged you in the re-post on this topic because I'm trying to find that lovely chart you posted for selecting the correct AWG based on distance for 3% loss. I have found others online, but none as clearly defined as yours--nor can I find yours again.


        [edit] SK...I found it. Now I feel kinda dumb for searching the forum for literally an hour looking for that stickied post I had seen before.
        Last edited by Laspher; 03-27-2017, 08:52 PM.

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        • #5
          Ok. With those 2 x 10watt lights running 2 hours a night you will use 40watt hours which a 35Ah battery should easily handle daily.

          As for which of those batteries would I choose. I have no experience with the MightyMax so I can't tell you how they will last. I actually have a couple of those UB12350 installed in my Mother in laws 24v scooter. They worked great and have lasted about 3 years with mild usage. Hard to tell what type of DOD they got since I never really paid attention to how much they were drained each day but they were put on a charger every other day or so.

          IMO if you are testing out the system I would not spend a lot of money on the first battery which every one you get and unless you need it an AGM type is more expensive then an FLA type.

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          • #6
            1st, I just found the HB12350 at Walmart.com for $65 with free shipping vs the altestore's $74 +S&H.
            2nd just using walmart, when I search 35AH Deep Cycle the AGM or SLA are all within a few dollars of each other. If you happen to know of a better place to shop for such a small capacity battery please let me know.

            Since you have experience with the UB12350 and can testify that it has a decent life span (in a mobility scooter) it is what I will probably be going with. I know it will have light usage, wouldn't be surprised if my system doesn't sit on float for more than it is active, especially during the school year.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by Laspher View Post
              1st, I just found the HB12350 at Walmart.com for $65 with free shipping vs the altestore's $74 +S&H.
              2nd just using walmart, when I search 35AH Deep Cycle the AGM or SLA are all within a few dollars of each other. If you happen to know of a better place to shop for such a small capacity battery please let me know.

              Since you have experience with the UB12350 and can testify that it has a decent life span (in a mobility scooter) it is what I will probably be going with. I know it will have light usage, wouldn't be surprised if my system doesn't sit on float for more than it is active, especially during the school year.
              The UB AGM battery is pretty good for the scooter. I also have a set of 4 x 50Ah units for my "portable" solar / battery system (although they have gotten very little usage) so it is hard to say how long they will last in your system.

              As I said the AGM is expensive but if you can't find an FLA for less then go for it. Just don't break the bank testing out your first set of batteries. I wish I had purchased a couple of 6v 232Ah batteries for $250 instead of 4 of those 12volt 50Ah for $400 to build my 200Ah system. It was a mistake because I did not listen to what people told me on this forum. I know better now.
              Last edited by SunEagle; 03-29-2017, 06:55 PM.

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              • #8
                This is exactly why I have read the forum, and posted questions and comments about what I am planning on doing. I am looking forward to doing this, and I am wanting to be sure I didn't leave anything out, like the AWG from CC to battery, and AWG from battery to Bus. I know from bus to fuse to lights based on their power need. I haven't looked at SunKing's handy chart yet, though I did bookmark it so I don't lose it again. Oh yeah...I need to get a pair of buses to make connections easier...Item added to list: Figure maximum amperage from all circuits existing, potential additional loads should I decide to add more and still be within capacity, then gauge wires and buses accordingly.

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                • #9
                  So, today I received all of the lights for my project. I was a little surprised. I was expecting the floodlights to be of average size (about 6x8"). They were, instead, about 3x5. The RV dome lights I picked out were also different. They were listed as 5.4 watt, they are 3.6 watt. I again failed to actually read the part dimensions...these lights which I was expecting to be about 5" diameter are actually 12 inch diameter.

                  REMEMBER always double check all dimensions!

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Laspher View Post
                    So, today I received all of the lights for my project. I was a little surprised. I was expecting the floodlights to be of average size (about 6x8"). They were, instead, about 3x5. The RV dome lights I picked out were also different. They were listed as 5.4 watt, they are 3.6 watt. I again failed to actually read the part dimensions...these lights which I was expecting to be about 5" diameter are actually 12 inch diameter.

                    REMEMBER always double check all dimensions!
                    Sometimes the dimensions are in metric which just adds to the confusion.

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                    • #11
                      I can handle metric, well as guesswork. I am still pleased with my purchase, and look forward to ordering the final key parts.

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                      • #12
                        Ok, Question time guys:

                        Since I know my system will not see much action until late may in terms of usage, would I be ok hooking up the battery and just letting the PWM charger do its thing? Or do I need to hook the new battery up to a charger first?

                        Remember, this is an extremely low usage system. It will probably only be used on the weekends when there is no work to make us go to bed by 9 pm.....

                        Thanks,

                        Las

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                        • #13
                          I'd hook the battery to the charge controller and let it charge for a week to insure the battery is being stored fully charged. More than a week and you are just gassing water away. Once a month, hook it up to charge for 2 or 3 sunny days to keep it topped off and prevent the self discharge from running it down.
                          Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
                          || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
                          || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

                          solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
                          gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

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                          • #14
                            Sounds like a good plan for the winter months. Thanks

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                            • #15
                              Got another part of my system in the mail today, my 6 circuit fuse block. It was listed as coming with 6x fuses: 3A / 5A / 10A / 15A / 20A / 30A. Sadly it didn't come with any fuses. On the plus side, I can get the fuses I need for the loads I plan on applying, on the down side, I now have to get more fuses than I had planned on, good thing automotive fuses are cheap.

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