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What type of relay is this and should I replace it now?

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  • What type of relay is this and should I replace it now?

    This is the relay in my van. Is this your standard starter relay for a leisure battery setup? Will I need to replace it for something better when I put leisure batteries in with solar? What is recommended?

    Edit: It is a 1991 Ford E150 with the 5.8L 351. I don't think it's ever been replaced, but there are no leisure batteries in the van either, so may not have seen a whole lot of serious use.
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  • #2
    Wrong forum maybe?
    2.2kw Suntech mono, Classic 200, NEW Trace SW4024

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    • #3
      When I think starter relay, I think of a gizmo in the big fat cable between the battery and the starter motor under the engine, Write down the part number and call it into a auto parts shop and see if they can tell you what it is.
      Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
      || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
      || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

      solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
      gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

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      • #4
        Looks like the starter solenoid to me. Same one Mike is talking about.

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        • #5
          To me, the fact that a label on the side of the thing says "diode" makes me think that it is in fact a battery isolator. If that is indeed what it is, the purpose is to keep any battery drain (load) which tends to fully discharge the house battery (leisure battery in your terms) from also discharging the starting battery. That way you can always start the engine and let the alternator charge both batteries.

          When you add solar to the charging mix, you can either connect it directly through a charge controller to the house battery, and it will not necessarily charge the starting battery effectively, or you can go to a more sophisticated battery isolator.

          Most starter solenoids are located close to the starter motor itself. Some are integral to the motor assembly.

          On second thought, the nameplate looks like "diode suppressed", which would refer to a diode in parallel with the relay contacts to prevent arcing when the relay opens against the inductive load of the starter motor.
          Last edited by inetdog; 01-30-2017, 07:27 PM.
          SunnyBoy 3000 US, 18 BP Solar 175B panels.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by inetdog View Post
            To me, the fact that a label on the side of the thing says "diode" makes me think that it is in fact a battery isolator.
            ACKKK! That's the name I was looking for... Isolator, sorry.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by inetdog View Post
              To me, the fact that a label on the side of the thing says "diode" makes me think that it is in fact a battery isolator. If that is indeed what it is, the purpose is to keep any battery drain (load) which tends to fully discharge the house battery (leisure battery in your terms) from also discharging the starting battery. That way you can always start the engine and let the alternator charge both batteries.

              When you add solar to the charging mix, you can either connect it directly through a charge controller to the house battery, and it will not necessarily charge the starting battery effectively, or you can go to a more sophisticated battery isolator.

              Most starter solenoids are located close to the starter motor itself. Some are integral to the motor assembly.

              On second thought, the nameplate looks like "diode suppressed", which would refer to a diode in parallel with the relay contacts to prevent arcing when the relay opens against the inductive load of the starter motor.
              You are correct. With the second thought.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by SWFLA View Post

                You are correct. With the second thought.
                So that gray thing on the left is also part of the isolator? Why is it so big if it's just a diode???

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by joerossjr View Post

                  So that gray thing on the left is also part of the isolator? Why is it so big if it's just a diode???
                  That should be the external regulator for your alternator. After closer inspection of your picture I don't see two heavy wires going to that solenoid. Follow the fat wire from your starter and see where it goes. The relay for auxiliary battery is supposed to be a plug-in Style.
                  Last edited by SWFLA; 01-30-2017, 10:21 PM.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by SWFLA View Post

                    That should be the external regulator for your alternator. After closer inspection of your picture I don't see two heavy wires going to that solenoid. Follow the fat wire from your starter and see where it goes. The relay for auxiliary battery is supposed to be a plug-in Style.
                    Ok, sorry for the delay!

                    The top green wire is for my eventual house battery (supplying 12V for just lighting right now) with a 30A fuse on it. You can see the fuse in the very right, where it switches to a red wire after the fuse (pretty confusing to begin with). Large red wire to the right circles back to the POS terminal on the battery. The bottom white wire on the same terminal goes to the alternator. That smaller green wire goes into a harness, then who knows where. I THINK AC or something.

                    I can get better pics if you'd like.

                    Just so I understand, this is the thing that most vehicles DON'T have, it's just there to isolate a house battery and a starter battery when the vehicle is not running? I am not happy at all with the wiring here, it looks substandard to me, and I want to replace it all or my OCD will kill me. This would be the "big 3" upgrade I have read about? I don't recall seeing this in the Chilton's or Hayne's diagrams in the manuals, so it is confusing me. I believe this is what I want to eventually replace with a CTEK DUAL/SmartPass setup when I get the solar installed, correct?

                    Thank you for the responses and the help!

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                    • #11
                      Originally posted by joerossjr View Post

                      Ok, sorry for the delay!

                      The top green wire is for my eventual house battery (supplying 12V for just lighting right now) with a 30A fuse on it. You can see the fuse in the very right, where it switches to a red wire after the fuse (pretty confusing to begin with). Large red wire to the right circles back to the POS terminal on the battery. The bottom white wire on the same terminal goes to the alternator. That smaller green wire goes into a harness, then who knows where. I THINK AC or something.

                      I can get better pics if you'd like.

                      Just so I understand, this is the thing that most vehicles DON'T have, it's just there to isolate a house battery and a starter battery when the vehicle is not running? I am not happy at all with the wiring here, it looks substandard to me, and I want to replace it all or my OCD will kill me. This would be the "big 3" upgrade I have read about? I don't recall seeing this in the Chilton's or Hayne's diagrams in the manuals, so it is confusing me. I believe this is what I want to eventually replace with a CTEK DUAL/SmartPass setup when I get the solar installed, correct?

                      Thank you for the responses and the help!
                      I agree the wiring is a mess.

                      Green insulation or markings should not be used for any current carry wire. It is misleading and in certain aspects dangerous.

                      Whomever did that wiring took shortcuts that you are now trying to figure out.

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by SunEagle View Post

                        I agree the wiring is a mess.

                        Green insulation or markings should not be used for any current carry wire. It is misleading and in certain aspects dangerous.

                        Whomever did that wiring took shortcuts that you are now trying to figure out.
                        Also, that's the always hot side... it shouldn't be like that... right? I will move it to the other side for "hot in run" since that is what would hook to the other battery correct?

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by joerossjr View Post

                          Also, that's the always hot side... it shouldn't be like that... right? I will move it to the other side for "hot in run" since that is what would hook to the other battery correct?
                          Usually all 12v DC wiring is Red for positive (or hot side) and Black for Negative. Green should be used only for "ground". Although it can be used if it is in a multi-conductor wire bundle used for controls.

                          A green wire should never be on the Positive side of a DC system although when a negative wire is connected to the vehicle frame you might also find a green wire because that is "ground" for the chassis of equipment (like radios).

                          Using unconventional wire colors can result in misunderstanding the circuit and will increase trouble-shooting time to solar a problem.

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                          • #14
                            Originally posted by SunEagle View Post

                            Usually all 12v DC wiring is Red for positive (or hot side) and Black for Negative. Green should be used only for "ground". Although it can be used if it is in a multi-conductor wire bundle used for controls.

                            A green wire should never be on the Positive side of a DC system although when a negative wire is connected to the vehicle frame you might also find a green wire because that is "ground" for the chassis of equipment (like radios).

                            Using unconventional wire colors can result in misunderstanding the circuit and will increase trouble-shooting time to solar a problem.
                            I have noticed that Ford tends to do what they want with wiring, swapping colors halfway for no apparent reason, etc. Some of my wiring doesn't match the hayne's OR chilton's manuals.

                            Ok, I'm going to completely rewire this once I have figured out positively what each wire is.

                            I appreciate the help!

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                            • #15
                              This was my starter solenoid. It when out and I replaced it for 30 bucks, so I don't have a isolator at all.

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