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  • New RV install confusion?

    Hey all,
    In a hurry to go travelling 3 months ago, I installed temporary 12v solar panel, controller etc to run fridge etc and just virtually "twitched"it together. I ran well for the trip.
    Upon return I decided to redo all with proper connections, fuses, etc. Now the damned thing don't work, and it has this o'l fart confused.
    I have attached a "mud map" for perusal.

    I have 12-18v coming from 80w solar panel, into a Powertech MP3720. The switch at [A] is just an isolator incase of controller reboot. BUT! volt test at [A] when off = 12-18v and on = .7v ???Van3.jpg
    When initially connecting controller, instruction = "Load must be ON before solar panel is connected" well now the "security light" doesn't come on at all.
    Thinking dodgy controller, I bought another, and still the same??
    Is there a problem with wiring?? The battery currently is at 6v, does that have to be over 10v??
    Any help greatly appreciated.
    NT

  • #2
    You might have had a fridge running unattened off of a 80w panel, in the sunny summer, but I would not expect it to work at all in winter or with any clouds

    If your 12V battery is reading 6V, it is pretty much destroyed. You may be able to charge it with a AC powered charger, but it's suffered some damage. Most charge controllers need at least 8V to power up and start working.

    And I think the Chinee-lish translation in the manual should state: connect the Controller to the Battery first, then the PV. Most of the time, the Load terminals are not used, as the controller is unable to provide much power to them,
    Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
    || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
    || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

    solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
    gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

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    • #3
      I see a huge error and open circuit in your drawing. If your drawing is correct, no wonder it will not work. You are showing your loads (fan, fridge, lights) powered from a fuse box connected to the battery Isolator. No dang wonder it will not work. Try something like this

      MSEE, PE

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      • #4
        Hi all,
        Thankyou for the replys,

        Hi Sunking, I don't wish to offend, #1 I am even more confused, and the diag means "zip" !
        I don't see how adding an isolator kills this?
        Yes I'm an IT Tech, but my limit on 12v is trailer light wiring and a 4brm home on 12v solar (home made - no inverters - everything 12v).
        This basic diag of mine was working?? minus isolator, and common earth.
        Or is the common earth the problem?
        I thought I just had to add a fuse from battery on the fuse box supply.

        Hi Mike, My last solar system controller had only 4 terminals and no load.
        Initially I tried to run fuse box of this, but no, its only active when system ceases charging at night,
        The manual states the load must be connected to boot? so I just run a wee LED 2w at night for roadside security.
        The van is only used in our dry season for camping, and a daily during the wet.
        I should also mention the panel is these new flexible ones, silicone to roof.
        The more I think on this, the common earth might be the trouble. As the original "twitch"setup was just controller to battery, then alligator clip to battery for fuse box.

        Thanks guys.
        NT

        Comment


        • #5
          at [A] when off = 12-18v and on = .7v ???........................

          Looks like the panel is attached backwards. That .7V looks like the forward voltage of a diode. A diode could be in the controller to protect for a panel being reversed without introducing a voltage drop in normal operation. OR you did something that has shorted out the controller. It is easily to get momentarily confused and hook up things wrong. And even easier to convince yourself you did everything right. Step back from it a while and then approach it with a clear mind.

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