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Hi... Can Someone With Experience Look at My Schematics?

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  • Hi... Can Someone With Experience Look at My Schematics?


    ...1989 GMC Conversion Van Class B Motor Home
    ...Recently gutted and being prepped for install

    Can anyone tell me if and what I am missing in this system? I am new to solar and electricity but pretty smart and have researched it for many months now. This is what I have so far.

    The inverter is a 2000 watt PSW inverter with hard wire connections.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by austexdude469; 10-10-2016, 02:26 AM.

  • #2
    I'd re-draw the schematics to not have so many crossing lines.
    Make it easier for someone to read.

    And I've read on here that parallel batteries are not prefered - better to have a set of 4 3V batteries than the parallel/serial you have.

    Comment


    • #3
      With so much invested in your plan, are you willing to be able to change before it burns up ?
      Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
      || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
      || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

      solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
      gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by Mike90250 View Post
        With so much invested in your plan, are you willing to be able to change before it burns up ?
        If I have to... Changing is much better than burning, usually 100% of the time in my book.

        Comment


        • #5
          Originally posted by Mike90250 View Post
          With so much invested in your plan, are you willing to be able to change before it burns up ?
          It's not built yet so plans are designed to be changed

          Comment


          • #6
            So, here's the deal. You have an RV and it's got 12V real handy. But 12V systems are really just good up to about 1,000 watts of load, and then inherent system losses of wire and conversion to higher voltage, start to have a large effect, Showing an air conditioner, microwave, and electric range is WAY beyond what a 12V system should be asked to do. Even running 12Vdc wiring for lighting to the far end of the RV, will exhibit losses that need heavy wire to remedy.
            So when your loads go up, your base battery voltage needs to go up too. Up to 2Kw loads need 24V system Over 2Kw =48v system.

            The decision is over-build for 12V, or bite the bullet and go 48V ? 48V you need new gear, and loose the vehicle alternator, which is a very handy utility,
            You may be able to install an extra alternator at 24V, and run 24V for the house, and the stock 12V for the vehicle gear.

            But at 12V, you cannot run any high power appliances safely.
            Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
            || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
            || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

            solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
            gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Mike90250 View Post
              So, here's the deal. You have an RV and it's got 12V real handy. But 12V systems are really just good up to about 1,000 watts of load, and then inherent system losses of wire and conversion to higher voltage, start to have a large effect, Showing an air conditioner, microwave, and electric range is WAY beyond what a 12V system should be asked to do. Even running 12Vdc wiring for lighting to the far end of the RV, will exhibit losses that need heavy wire to remedy.
              So when your loads go up, your base battery voltage needs to go up too. Up to 2Kw loads need 24V system Over 2Kw =48v system.

              The decision is over-build for 12V, or bite the bullet and go 48V ? 48V you need new gear, and loose the vehicle alternator, which is a very handy utility,
              You may be able to install an extra alternator at 24V, and run 24V for the house, and the stock 12V for the vehicle gear.

              But at 12V, you cannot run any high power appliances safely.
              Oh yes I understand that. The ac and most 120V stuff will only be run when hooked to shore power. The only thing that will be run really is a small fridge that has a very low draw, the lcd, and some LED lights.. I got the 2000 watt inverter to cover the start up amp draw but I doubt I will ever even hit 1000 watts on it.

              This is my second rebuild on this van, sort of a 10 year anniversary that I have owned it and a redo since it's now a classic. I rebuilt the entire engine myself from a blown block in 2007 brand new down to every tiny washer and redid the interior and added a kicking stereo, the one you see in diagram 3. Now that it's a classic I can do away with stock manifolds and go headers and dual thush with a cat bypass.

              My plans are to build this and go on a year long trip around the country. My job allows me to be anywhere (I set appointments for a solar company by phone and I'm especially good) so I figured I would build this and tour the USA, every nook and cranny. I am also going to buy a 2000 watt honda gen for running the ac when I am away from campsites. The ac is a very small unit also with a low draw.
              Last edited by austexdude469; 10-11-2016, 12:31 AM.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by Mike90250 View Post
                So, here's the deal. You have an RV and it's got 12V real handy. But 12V systems are really just good up to about 1,000 watts of load, and then inherent system losses of wire and conversion to higher voltage, start to have a large effect, Showing an air conditioner, microwave, and electric range is WAY beyond what a 12V system should be asked to do. Even running 12Vdc wiring for lighting to the far end of the RV, will exhibit losses that need heavy wire to remedy.
                So when your loads go up, your base battery voltage needs to go up too. Up to 2Kw loads need 24V system Over 2Kw =48v system.

                The decision is over-build for 12V, or bite the bullet and go 48V ? 48V you need new gear, and loose the vehicle alternator, which is a very handy utility,
                You may be able to install an extra alternator at 24V, and run 24V for the house, and the stock 12V for the vehicle gear.

                But at 12V, you cannot run any high power appliances safely.
                But I do have this question. Currently my alt is just a 95 amp stock. I was thinking about upgrading to a HO alt of 200 amps. I know I have to upgrade the current isolator from 100 amp to 200 and change my positive to the back to 2/0 gauge.

                Is it worth the extra $250 for the alt and another $100 for the isolator and wire to do this or do you think the 400 watts of solar will be enough?

                Comment


                • #9
                  Upgrade, look at the alternators http://www.balmar.net/ Good solid gear, charge current won't fade out from heat after 10 minutes, nor will they burn out easily,

                  So, as long as you know the limits of 12V gear and play within the rules, you'll be OK. Some new mini-split air conditioners take very little power when they have the variable speed compressors.
                  Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
                  || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
                  || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

                  solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
                  gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Mike90250 View Post
                    Upgrade, look at the alternators http://www.balmar.net/ Good solid gear, charge current won't fade out from heat after 10 minutes, nor will they burn out easily,

                    So, as long as you know the limits of 12V gear and play within the rules, you'll be OK. Some new mini-split air conditioners take very little power when they have the variable speed compressors.
                    Thanks, I will.

                    What I was really wondering from my schematics is am I missing anything? My charge controller has it's own stand alone battery mon system so I don't need to do a shunt. I was wondering am I missing any fuses, switches, or have anything wired wrong that needs changing.

                    And... can I run the battery and fridge vent fans from the load on the charge controller so it turns on when the sun comes up? The vent fans only take 250MA each. Is that a practical thing to do?
                    Last edited by austexdude469; 10-11-2016, 02:34 AM.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      You can add a small solar panel simply hardwired to your fans. In my 5th wheel I simply tapped into one of the solar panels and hardwired the fans this way. Sun shining = working fans. As you said 250 milliamp draw is negligible .
                      2.2kw Suntech mono, Classic 200, NEW Trace SW4024

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Mike90250 View Post
                        Upgrade, look at the alternators http://www.balmar.net/ Good solid gear, charge current won't fade out from heat after 10 minutes, nor will they burn out easily,

                        So, as long as you know the limits of 12V gear and play within the rules, you'll be OK. Some new mini-split air conditioners take very little power when they have the variable speed compressors.
                        I was mainly concerned about the solar aspect of it. The rest of the system I kind of understand it's just I was wondering if...

                        1. Using the load ports from the controller to run two small 250MA vent fans, one to vent out heat from the fridge and one to create a positive air system in the battery box to keep it vented is a good idea?

                        2. The solar aspect of it... basically I need to fuse the controller on both sides, put a switch between the panels and the controller, and connect it to the system? Should I connect right to battery or to the positive bus of the fuse block? The same with the DC converter, where should that be connect to the system, to the battery direct or to the busbar?

                        3. When I'm running the DC converter do I need to shut off the solar or will both solar charge controller and the controller in the DC converter work with each other while both on?
                        Last edited by austexdude469; 10-12-2016, 12:53 AM.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          your 3 schematics were too clumsy for me to do such detail for free, while I am bracing for a big storm hitting Nor Calif on Thursday, 2.5+" in 12 hours.
                          Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
                          || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
                          || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

                          solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
                          gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

                          Comment

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