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Help re: overload? Or faulty controller?

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  • Help re: overload? Or faulty controller?

    Hi all, I am new to this. The setup I am building is for running a satellite node which transmits photos from remote locations over the iridium network (Instant Wild, if you've heard of it). I can't speak to how much power this unit uses but suffice to say it is well below what this system is spec'd for. We have designed the battery set up to have enough amp hours to last several months during periods when the sun does not come up (arctic winter).

    Panel: 100w

    Batts: Two 12v 120aH VRLA

    Controller: SunSaver 10L-12v


    Today I connected the batts in parallel and connected the panel into the pre-wired controller. I have not yet connected the satellite node as I wanted to ensure the batteries were fully charged before running the whole system (the sat node connects directly to the batteries anyway). I placed the panel in direct sun and let er rip. After about five minutes I noticed the positive terminal on the battery terminal of the controller was smoking and I disconnected the panel. Both batts read 12.6V. Blackened wire + melted plastic:


    What caused the controller to overload/melt?

    My operating theory is that the controller failed. I saw no lights come on at connection and no indication of life, even though the batteries had good charge and the panel was well lit.

    Thanks

    Kris (noob!)

  • #2
    What size fuse do you have between the battery and charge controller? Is the system grounded anywhere?

    Just FYI... putting the batteries in parallel the way they are pictured will unbalance them over time. Google "diagonal wiring".
    Last edited by sensij; 04-21-2016, 05:36 PM.
    CS6P-260P/SE3000 - http://tiny.cc/ed5ozx

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    • #3
      That is a lot more battery than is usually hooked up to that size controller, If the batteries were not fully charged and attempted to draw a moderate amount of current the controller might exceed its maximum output ratings for awhile since it is a premium brand with good components, and looks like maybe 16awg wire? Do you only have the one 100W panel or more than 1 panel?

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      • #4
        No fuse. No ground. The panel is just supposed to be trickle charging the batts and all components run directly off the batts. I think it is 12awg. Very short distances so I can't see that being a problem? Only the one panel.

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        • #5
          We are using that much battery because the system will likely be drawn down over a period of three months when it will receive little to no power from the panel.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by pgk View Post
            We are using that much battery because the system will likely be drawn down over a period of three months when it will receive little to no power from the panel.
            I was just looking for possibilites of where that much current came from to melt that plastic, hopefully it was just from a defect that will be resolved when you get a new controller.

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            • #7
              Burn can be seen in the pic. At the pos terminal of the batt connection on the controller. I believe the problem was the controller.

              Where could i have mixed up the polarity? My batt parallels are good. The solar panel is plug and play.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by LETitROLL View Post
                I was just looking for possibilites of where that much current came from to melt that plastic, hopefully it was just from a defect that will be resolved when you get a new controller.
                Easy Peasy to figure out.. It can only be 1 of 2 things.

                1. The Controller has an internal Fault
                2. Poor workmanship.

                Assuming poor workmanship because I see poor workmanship. You used Ring Terminals on the battery term post which is what you should use. But you did not use Ring Terminals on the Controller Terminals or fuses on the battery term post.

                That controller has it chassis bonded to Negative Polarity. Check your wire skinner on the Red wire from the battery and see if it is making contact with the chassis, or a loose strand making contact.

                If that checks OK, disconnect the panels and battery from controller. Take a DMM and measure resistance between the Neg and Pos terminals on the controller battery connection points. If the controller has a fault you will read very low resistance of 1 ohm or less. It should read very high resistance or Open Load OL

                If you had put fuses on the battery term post, you would not have burned the wire and immediately alerted you to a problem. If you are lucky, it is poor workmanship with a loose strand of wire or the skinner making contact with the chassis. Ring Terminals would have prevented that.

                Bottom line here is the panel is not capable of burning any of your wire as it cannot supply that much current. Only the batteries can do that. When you see burn marks on wire, they start at connection points. That point in your case is right at the Controller Terminal. That tells you where the problem is.
                Last edited by Sunking; 04-21-2016, 11:29 PM.
                MSEE, PE

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                • #9
                  Thanks. I've ordered a new controller. I'll update once I get it. I'm not exactly an electrical guru so it's definitely possible I screwed something up but as of right now I don't see how...

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by pgk View Post
                    Thanks. I've ordered a new controller. I'll update once I get it. I'm not exactly an electrical guru so it's definitely possible I screwed something up but as of right now I don't see how...
                    Check your work, and test the controller. If it was a wire skinner touching the chassis, the controller should be OK.

                    Try this. Disconnect the panel. Wire the Negative terminal to the battery like normal, but do not connect the positive. Instead take the Red Wire from the battery in your hand, and touch the wire to the Pos term on the controller. If it gets hot real fast, pull the wire off because the controller is shorted and needs replaced If the Controller comes alive, it is fine.

                    If it comes alive, terminate the Red battery wire to the controller, re-connect the panel, and you are back in biz again.
                    Last edited by Sunking; 04-21-2016, 11:42 PM.
                    MSEE, PE

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                    • #11
                      What is a wire skinner?

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by pgk View Post
                        What is a wire skinner?
                        Where you skinned the insulation off the wire to cram into the controller terminal. Good chance you have a loose strand making contact to the chassis, or enough exposed bare wire makingg contact to chassis.

                        That is why I said you should have used either Ring or Spade Terminals on the controller wiring instead of bared twisted wire that works loose or a wild strand you did not get in the controller terminal. Properly terminated Ring or Spade terminals do not have any exposed wire and cannot come off.
                        Last edited by Sunking; 04-21-2016, 11:50 PM.
                        MSEE, PE

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                        • #13
                          I guess thats possible. The controller came pre wired from the guys who built the rig. When i get the new controller i will use ring or fork terminals, need to see what i have in the shop. I just noticed your edited post above. Thanks. I feel like even if there was a loose wire touching the chassis i would have seen some life from the controller lights which i did not.

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                          • #14
                            remember, the controller gets connected to the charged batteries first, so it can boot up, then you connect the solar panels.
                            Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
                            || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
                            || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

                            solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
                            gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

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