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How do you solder 6X6, three tabbed cells @ the end ?

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  • #31
    Step 1 lay both cells face up next to each other leaving a bit of space between (about 1/4").
    step 2 Connect the three bus on the back of one to the three bus on the front of the other.
    Step 3 On the cell that you connected the back of, to the other cell to the front, solder the three bus together at the end opposite where you soldered the other tabs. This will be one end of the circuit.
    step 4 turn the whole assembly over.
    step 5 on the cell that is connected to the other side connect the three bus together at the other end from where the cells are connected together. This will be the other end of the circuit.
    NABCEP certified Technical Sales Professional

    [URL="http://www.solarpaneltalk.com/showthread.php?5334-Solar-Off-Grid-Battery-Design"]http://www.solarpaneltalk.com/showth...Battery-Design[/URL]

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    • #32
      Originally posted by _madtrapper View Post
      I'm trying to figure out WHY I cannot get more than .5v out of 2 cells rated @ 4.1v. I'm trying to be as explicable as possible.
      Because someone gave you wrong information. each cell can ONLY create .5V , unless you super cool it in liquid nitrogen, then you might get .65V. 4.1V would need 8 cells, wired in series. The sketch you posted gave me a headache, it makes no sense. The metal from the top side of 1 cell, gets soldered to the backside of the next cell. And then repeat. Each functional cell, properly soldered in, will add .5V

      And there is the 2nd part, functional. Who certified the cells you paid for, are actually working? 99% of fleabay cells are factory floor sweepings. The good, working ones get sold for market prices, to panel manufacturers, not fleabay. The rejects end up on fleabay, then the buyers of them, end up here. We cant help much when you have bought snake oil from a fancy website.
      Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
      || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
      || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

      solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
      gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

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      • #33
        Buying cells

        The cells I bought, were directly from the solar panel manufacturer. They ARE NOT 2nds. I never saw any flaws upon examination of each cell. I made a mistake by NOT buying short tabbed. Tabbing SUCKS !!!

        Everyone keeps saying what I KNOW: top of cell one to the bottom of cell 2. What is stumping me is what do you hook up the bottom of cell one to and what do you hook up the top of cell 2 to !

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        • #34
          just like what i've said to my 1st reply to you, definitely it's 4w(not 4v) with 3Tabs cell.

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          • #35
            out put 4.1 v

            hi trap,i think the volts on your 6x6 cell should be .5 to.65 volts,amps from 3 to 5.

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            • #36
              Originally posted by artie10 View Post
              hi trap,i think the volts on your 6x6 cell should be .5 to.65 volts,amps from 3 to 5.
              Hi Artie - Welcome to Solar Panel Talk!

              Russ
              [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

              Comment


              • #37
                Missing info.

                Originally posted by _madtrapper View Post
                The cells I bought, were directly from the solar panel manufacturer. They ARE NOT 2nds. I never saw any flaws upon examination of each cell. I made a mistake by NOT buying short tabbed. Tabbing SUCKS !!!

                Everyone keeps saying what I KNOW: top of cell one to the bottom of cell 2. What is stumping me is what do you hook up the bottom of cell one to and what do you hook up the top of cell 2 to !
                ---
                It's simple. The back of cell one will be your (+) positive, and the front of cell two will be your (-) negative.
                These will hook to your motor, switch, light, whatever you want to power. Know this, I have these 3-tab solar cells that are 6x6 in size they provide .5 volts and when you connect them together you will get about 1v with 2 cells.

                Cell Specifications:
                Rated power : ~3.5 to 4 Wp
                Open circuit voltage: 0.610v -0.621v
                Short circuit current: 8.18 amp - 8.78 amp
                Operating voltage: 0.488 v - 0.50 v
                Operating current: 7.51 amp - 8.14 amp

                current = amps
                volts x amps = watts ---- read the "operating" numbers --- 0.50v x 8.00 amp = about 4 watts


                -- let's say you want to power a small motor -- a 1v motor... (ha)

                I'm not sure what you used to connect cell 1 to cell 2, but most everyone uses the tabbing wire. It is a flat wire with a little solder on it to help you connect it to strips on the top and bottom of solar cells. And EVERYONE uses liquid solder flux before they start.
                Use the solder flux all the way down the front tab lines (silver lines). Then use a 12" section of tab wire and solder it all the way across the silver strip and let 6" hang off one end. Do this to all 3 tab lines - 3 pieces of tabbing wire. This 6" hanging off goes to the back of next solar cell. You would then flux and solder the special tab wire to EACH of the silver areas (tabs) on the back of cell 2. So the tabbing wire goes straight across the front of one cell, then goes to the back of the next cell, and you solder it in a straight line. You have to turn the cells over to get the job done right, just need to be carefull when putting a lot of them together. Most people solder all the wires on the front of each cell, then turn them all over, lay them down as they should, and solder all the wires on the backs.

                To do this job right, you would need about 96" (inches) of small tabbing wire and about 12" of large tabbing wire to connect the ends of this link together. For this small project you could use telephone wire (24 guage) at the ends.... not as your tabbing wire. If you put a lot of cells together, 5 or more, you would need the tabbing wire. Too much current (amps) for little small wires to handle.

                ---- here's the part you are missing -----
                For connecting to your motor, light or whatever device, go ahead and solder 3 more strips of tab wire to the front of cell 1 and let it hang off. Solder 3 more tab wires to the back of cell 2 and let it hang off. Those 3 wires hanging out of each end are connected together, most people solder more tab wire across them to connect these 3 together --- do the same to the other 3 wires at the other end of your linked cells.
                One end of your link of cells is your (+) and the other end of the link is your (-). You can figure it out with your voltmeter. Each end gives you a place to connect more wires to go to your motor or light.

                You asked the right question, I know there are many on here with more knowledge than me. I just think it all got lost in the simpleness of the whole idea of how it really works.

                I'm working on my first solar panel myself. Lot's of great videos on YouTube.

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                • #38
                  cells

                  Thanks guys
                  I think I have a grasp of it thanks to pflash. While most of you were stuck on the voltage issue pflash made it clear enuf fer my thick skull!!??!!(I HATE BRAIN FARTS!)
                  As far as my "McGivering" has gone I have most of the cells tabbed (I ONLY BROKE 4!!!!) Next time, I'm buying TABBED !!!!
                  It seems that I am only going to get .5 per. I haven't put together yet, HOW, I want them layed out except that I'm gonna parallel all the broken ones.
                  Thanks to those of you whom had input.
                  Trap

                  Originally posted by pflashy View Post
                  ---
                  It's simple. The back of cell one will be your (+) positive, and the front of cell two will be your (-) negative.
                  These will hook to your motor, switch, light, whatever you want to power. Know this, I have these 3-tab solar cells that are 6x6 in size they provide .5 volts and when you connect them together you will get about 1v with 2 cells.

                  Cell Specifications:
                  Rated power : ~3.5 to 4 Wp
                  Open circuit voltage: 0.610v -0.621v
                  Short circuit current: 8.18 amp - 8.78 amp
                  Operating voltage: 0.488 v - 0.50 v
                  Operating current: 7.51 amp - 8.14 amp

                  current = amps
                  volts x amps = watts ---- read the "operating" numbers --- 0.50v x 8.00 amp = about 4 watts


                  -- let's say you want to power a small motor -- a 1v motor... (ha)

                  I'm not sure what you used to connect cell 1 to cell 2, but most everyone uses the tabbing wire. It is a flat wire with a little solder on it to help you connect it to strips on the top and bottom of solar cells. And EVERYONE uses liquid solder flux before they start.
                  Use the solder flux all the way down the front tab lines (silver lines). Then use a 12" section of tab wire and solder it all the way across the silver strip and let 6" hang off one end. Do this to all 3 tab lines - 3 pieces of tabbing wire. This 6" hanging off goes to the back of next solar cell. You would then flux and solder the special tab wire to EACH of the silver areas (tabs) on the back of cell 2. So the tabbing wire goes straight across the front of one cell, then goes to the back of the next cell, and you solder it in a straight line. You have to turn the cells over to get the job done right, just need to be carefull when putting a lot of them together. Most people solder all the wires on the front of each cell, then turn them all over, lay them down as they should, and solder all the wires on the backs.

                  To do this job right, you would need about 96" (inches) of small tabbing wire and about 12" of large tabbing wire to connect the ends of this link together. For this small project you could use telephone wire (24 guage) at the ends.... not as your tabbing wire. If you put a lot of cells together, 5 or more, you would need the tabbing wire. Too much current (amps) for little small wires to handle.

                  ---- here's the part you are missing -----
                  For connecting to your motor, light or whatever device, go ahead and solder 3 more strips of tab wire to the front of cell 1 and let it hang off. Solder 3 more tab wires to the back of cell 2 and let it hang off. Those 3 wires hanging out of each end are connected together, most people solder more tab wire across them to connect these 3 together --- do the same to the other 3 wires at the other end of your linked cells.
                  One end of your link of cells is your (+) and the other end of the link is your (-). You can figure it out with your voltmeter. Each end gives you a place to connect more wires to go to your motor or light.

                  You asked the right question, I know there are many on here with more knowledge than me. I just think it all got lost in the simpleness of the whole idea of how it really works.

                  I'm working on my first solar panel myself. Lot's of great videos on YouTube.

                  Comment


                  • #39
                    Broken cells

                    Originally posted by _madtrapper View Post
                    Thanks guys
                    I think I have a grasp of it thanks to pflash. While most of you were stuck on the voltage issue pflash made it clear enuf fer my thick skull!!??!!(I HATE BRAIN FARTS!)
                    As far as my "McGivering" has gone I have most of the cells tabbed (I ONLY BROKE 4!!!!) Next time, I'm buying TABBED !!!!
                    It seems that I am only going to get .5 per. I haven't put together yet, HOW, I want them layed out except that I'm gonna parallel all the broken ones.
                    Thanks to those of you whom had input.
                    Trap
                    Thanks for the compliment.
                    Just to let you know, the broken parts of a cell can still be used, as long as there is a solder tab on the front and back of the piece. You have to be careful because the parts will give you different amps and volts depending on how you put them together. If you laid them out like it was not broken, meaning laid them out like you were going to put it back together, and solder them all together, you will get a lower yield on voltage and amperage than you might expect. You can always experiment with the broken pieces to see what happens.

                    If you are going to build anything lasting, you need to seal your cells and their connections with a special sealer that will permanently enclose them and keep oxygen and the elements (water / dirt) from messing with your creation. A cell array (links of cells) exposed to the air for long times will decrease your output over time.

                    For the soldering, you need to go to Radio Shack and get a solder iron that isn't over 40 watts. I use a 35 watt myself. You will be best to get a small flat tip - they make them in copper that screw on. A pointed tip is really hard to use. A solder gun will not do.
                    This way you can lay the flat tip down and just slowly drag it down the tab as you solder or put on the tabbing wires.

                    Again, there are great videos on youtube for all of this.
                    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EMCvz...eature=related
                    I don't agree with everything she says, but she shows you some great tips on soldering.
                    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ED91...eature=related
                    This is a commercial soldering company - but it shows how the tabbing goes on in series.

                    This next guy builds them for sale, not endorsing him, but he builds very sturdy arrays, what he has to say makes a lot of sense. His 3rd part shows the application of the sealer or encapsulation of the array.
                    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_2UxO...eature=related

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                    • #40
                      ready to proceede

                      Now I have to figure out what config will give me the best results. As it stands, I have 12 cells to work with with one spare. What config will give me max Volts and amps. I would like to be able to run small motors and or circuts (radio) for now.
                      Any help & suggestions are appreciated.
                      Trap

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                      • #41
                        12 cells in series will give you 6 volts.

                        amps depend on the size of the cells
                        Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
                        || Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
                        || VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A

                        solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
                        gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Lister

                        Comment


                        • #42
                          Volts vs Amps

                          Originally posted by _madtrapper View Post
                          Now I have to figure out what config will give me the best results. As it stands, I have 12 cells to work with with one spare. What config will give me max Volts and amps. I would like to be able to run small motors and or circuts (radio) for now.
                          Any help & suggestions are appreciated.
                          Trap
                          Depends on how you connect the cells together. The way we have been talking here is to connect them together in a series, one connects to the other, Positive to Negative. This will increase the voltage, but not the amps. So you would have (0.5 volts * 12) = 6 volts. And your amps would still be 5 (same as 1 cell).
                          Series = all connected back-to-front gives you 6 volts @ 5 amps.

                          If you laid 12 of your cells all on a table (not soldered together yet) and connected all the positives together, and the connected all the negatives together, you would still have 0.5 volts, but your amps would be about 5 amps x 12 = 60 amps!
                          Parallel = all connected side-by-side (all positives of 12 cells and all negatives of those 12 cells connected together) would give you 0.5 volts with about 60 amps.

                          (your amperage really goes up with direct sunlight, and drops rapidly as the sun is off to the side)

                          So changing things arround, if you put 6 cells in a series, that would give you = 3 volts @ 5 amps.
                          Then made another exactly the same, you could lay them side-by-side and connect the positive ends to each other (end of the series #1 and #2) and connect their negatives together (other end of the series #1 and #2) you would have 3 volts but your amperage would go up to 10 amps.

                          This is why people make panels to get a high voltage to drive their devices (12-18 volts), but make more panels and connect them in parallel (side-by-side) to get more amps. Higher amperage allows you to drive larger devices, but you must meet the voltage requirements, too.

                          Some will connect solar cells together and to have a higher voltage than they need, but use a regulator, or Zener diode to keep the voltage at a steady level. Obviously, as the sun moves across the sky your solar array will get different levels of amps and volts. For your small motors and such, it may not be a factor, but if you plan on using larger devices, you may want to consider this.
                          http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_3/chpt_3/11.html

                          I know this can be a lot to catch, but like I said, playing with circuits and reading about them, will help you get a grasp on this.

                          James

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                          • #43
                            Thanks for the information.

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                            • #44
                              ??

                              ????

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                              • #45
                                Originally posted by _madtrapper View Post
                                Right now I cannot even manage to get one cell to pump out the proper Voltage (4.1v) !! I have soldered all the (+)'s together & all the (-) together (of the one cell). The cell rated @ 4.1v isn't even putting out 1/4 of a volt.
                                I'm flummoxed !!
                                Thanks
                                Trap
                                As far as I know, there are no 4 volt PV cells. More likely .6 volt or so. (There is more than one way of making them. Most are silicon based.)
                                So a 4.1 volt cell array or panel would consist of about 6 or 7 of those in series.

                                Something is wrong with the documentation that you are working from. What I would first do is measure volts from a tab on one side of one "cell" to the corresponding tab on the other side. Make sure the cell is in full sun, since a cheap voltmeter will draw a fair amount of current. Then check with an ohmmeter to see whether all three tabs on each side of the cell are connected together internally. (They should be if this really is just a single cell.)
                                SunnyBoy 3000 US, 18 BP Solar 175B panels.

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