2000k system only puts out 500 watt why?

[charles2,david000k]

It is odd when the class is silent. It usually means I said something stupid or stumps the class so I will ask a different question off topic. Is there any difference in performance between gold and nickel fuses?

[jflorey2]

It is odd when the class is silent. It usually means I said something stupid or stumps the class so I will ask a different question off topic. Is there any difference in performance between gold and nickel fuses?

Answering your questions has become something of an exercise in futility. Answering your question about nickel vs gold fuses is like seeing a post "so my house is on fire and it's spreading fast. Should I invest in double pane windows or leave the original single pane windows in place? Cause it doesn't seem so cold right now."

You have serious problems with your system. If you want to solve your problems, get someone competent in to look at it. At this point I feel like I'm enabling someone with a poorly designed system to feel good about not fixing it, and instead make meaningless tweaks and twiddles.

[charles2,david000k]

Answering your questions has become something of an exercise in futility. Answering your question about nickel vs gold fuses is like seeing a post "so my house is on fire and it's spreading fast. Should I invest in double pane windows or leave the original single pane windows in place? Cause it doesn't seem so cold right now."

You have serious problems with your system. If you want to solve your problems, get someone competent in to look at it. At this point I feel like I'm enabling someone with a poorly designed system to feel good about not fixing it, and instead make meaningless tweaks and twiddles.

I actually did contact a few NABCEP certified technicians the first came out and said the system was correctly set up for what it is. Then I open my mouth about what a hard time I was having with the distributor and what had happen to panel number 8 and then the word lawsuit came in and they left refused to write up a report they are ranked 2015 top 500 solar contractors. The second came out spent two days going over the whole system and found the same thing except the first crew did bad panels with the exception of the cc was burnt out. I returned all 8 panels by freight and panel 8 the one the distributor claimed it was destroyed by me. But I already had the proof from the tech confirming the panel was not damaged when shipped. So I went and got the panels myself so I could see them test the panels myself. they gave me a new cc and tested the panel themselves in front of me but could not get any readings better than 35V and 5 Amps and refused to test panel 8 told me they were all fine and loaded them in my truck and sent me on my way. I personally felt this was wrong of them to do because I did not realize panel don't read what they are marked for. I thought you took the nominal peak power Pmax of 250W and subtracted 10% for the first 15 years makes 225W which means to me the panels wattage should not fall under 225W if set up correctly which I also thought they where according to the four tech's that have already been to my home and checked the system. I am honestly doing what is in my budget I am mostly broke so funding is almost non existent. The fuse between the bank and inverter has got to be upgraded it got hot the other day and started to melt the fuse block and the wire jacket between the inverter.

[charles2,david000k]

Panel 5
10AM 4PM
65F
Vm 27.62
Ah 14.364
Ap 7.61
Wp 210.2
Wh 425.5



Panel 6
10am 4pm
Vm 33.35
Ah 3.285
Ap 6.67
Wp 222.5
Wh 100.6

[inetdog]

... I am honestly doing what is in my budget I am mostly broke so funding is almost non existent. The fuse between the bank and inverter has got to be upgraded it got hot the other day and started to melt the fuse block and the wire jacket between the inverter.

OK. There are several potential reasons for the fuse block to melt:
1. Most likely the fuse holder is just not intended to be used with that high a current.
2. There may be a bad connection between the wires and the fuse holder. Make sure you are using the right size wires, with crimped connectors if necessary and with the screws properly tightened.
3. It is also possible that you have a poor connection between the fuse and the holder. This would also come under the heading of bad design, so see item 1.

It is almost NEVER the result of the fuse itself getting too hot, because at that temperature the fuse would be expected to blow very quickly.

[bcroe]

OK. There are several potential reasons for the fuse block to melt:
1. Most likely the fuse holder is just not intended to be used with that high a current.
2. There may be a bad connection between the wires and the fuse holder. Make sure you are using the right size wires, with crimped connectors if necessary and with the screws properly tightened.
3. It is also possible that you have a poor connection between the fuse and the holder. This would also come under the heading of bad design, so see item 1.

It is almost NEVER the result of the fuse itself getting too hot, because at that temperature the fuse would be expected to blow very quickly.

My own experience with fuses, is the contacts can get dirty/corroded, the resistance increases, they get warmer,
corrode faster, etc. Not the fuse, but the contact to the fuse holder. Bruce Roe

[charles2,david000k]

OK. There are several potential reasons for the fuse block to melt:
1. Most likely the fuse holder is just not intended to be used with that high a current.
2. There may be a bad connection between the wires and the fuse holder. Make sure you are using the right size wires, with crimped connectors if necessary and with the screws properly tightened.
3. It is also possible that you have a poor connection between the fuse and the holder. This would also come under the heading of bad design, so see item 1.

It is almost NEVER the result of the fuse itself getting too hot, because at that temperature the fuse would be expected to blow very quickly.

I am running off of a 250 Amp ANL fuse right now. I already ordered the 300 Amp replacement a few days ago it should already be here. I would like to move to a breaker like this

http://www.ebay.com/itm/300-AMP-12V-24V-DC-CIRCUIT-BREAKER-REPLACE-FUSE-300A-12-24VDC-FAST-FREE-USA-SHIP-/221518233704

but am really unsure of it due to a review I seen and the guy said the connection lugs seem to be 1 or 2 mm too small for 24V system online distributors is like playing russian roulette you just don't know till you try when you really just don't know anything about the product.



I hate my inlaws sometimes 2 hours sleep in 72 hours makes me grumpy day and night have become one big blur. I am sorry if I missed something but I am going to bed. sorry

[sensij]

My last post in this thread.... the resources being sunk into this system, by someone who claims to have little to spare, is saddening. As far as I can tell, the only purpose this off-grid system serves is to provide backup power for when the grid goes down. The money being thrown away on this would be better spent on a generator, and some fuel for it. The time spent watching You-tube and interacting on this forum could surely be spent in more productive ways.

Maybe the existing system can be sold on Ebay to recover some of the expense... people will buy anything there.

[charles2,david000k]

My own experience with fuses, is the contacts can get dirty/corroded, the resistance increases, they get warmer,
corrode faster, etc. Not the fuse, but the contact to the fuse holder. Bruce Roe

Hey just wanted to let you know you nailed it with the fuse bad contact I fixed it and upgraded to a 300A from the old 250A. Aims said it should have been a 300A in the first place.