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  • #16
    Originally posted by SunEagle View Post
    If you only wire the 2 sets of panels in parallel you do not need any fusing between the panels and charge controller per the National Electric Code. Although while you aren't "required" to install fuses, some people still do. -------------------You size your inverter based on your loads and the size of the battery system. Your battery system can safely generate (at 20% DOD) about 1200 watt hours a day. Using an inverter that is too big will drain that battery system too quickly. The larger ones are also less efficient and actually can draw up to 10% of their nameplate wattage just being turned on. IMO I would even go with a smaller inverter around 600 to 800 watts.
    Ah... that makes sense. Thanks a lot again.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by jimindenver View Post
      One thing that needs to be considered are the 12v systems of the RV. You will need either a second bank or a means of converting the 24v to 12v. Any method of doing this means losses not incurred while using a 12v battery to power the rig.

      You must plan on running some stuff with that kind of wattage. we run 750w and 675 Ah of battery at 12v and average up too 200 Ah a day. The heavy days are when we use the little air conditioner for four or five hours pulling amps in the mid 30's. Luckily the A/C will run off of the panels mid day but it's only 5000 BTU. With 1300w you should be able to run one a few sizes larger. A mini split would be even better but we don't need it often enough to justify the expense. Outside of that the majority of the cooking is done on a hot plate, two or three pots of coffee come from the auto drip and the TV/Sat may run 12 hours a day keeping the dogs quiet. Eventually we will add a smaller residential fridge for longer trips and a heating element to the water heater.

      On the inverter, last year we ran two inverters. A 3000w Ebay PSW that lasted a year until it showed its dislike of the start up surge of the air conditioner by becoming a useless brick. Since it took so much power at idle we ran a Powerbright 150w MSW inverter for the TV/Sat and phone charging. With that inverter everything they say about MSW was true. The chargers and satellite box ran HOT and the TV had vertical lines in it. So when the big inverter died I was on the hunt for two PSW units. I knew the smaller would be a Morningstar 300w fanless but dreaded picking out the big one. Someone told me to try out a Tripp-lite 1250fc that he had run for 5 years 24/7 for a residential fridge. he said that yes it's MSW but not all of those are created equal. The Tripp-lite is a industrial inverter made for heavy loads and will start your A/C without braking a sweat. He said it has a huge transformer for doing this and has a cleaner sine wave too. Well for $200 I gave it a shot. He was right, the compressor on the A/C starts so easy that you wouldn't know it was running until the cold air comes out if you are not looking at a kill a watt. The phone chargers and satellite dish run no warmer than at home and the TV picture is brilliant. They do make a 2400w 24v unit too.

      I look forward to seeing what you want out of your system and how it works out.
      Regarding the Tripp-Lite-PV1250FC, I could not find online how much power this draws with no load (self-use) or the efficiency. I am evaluating this to power a refrigerator from batteries. However, if this non-sine inverter could power/charge an APC UPS I might be able to make it my only inverter.


      It is an excellent price on Amazon.

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      • #18
        Originally posted by lkruper View Post
        Regarding the Tripp-Lite-PV1250FC, I could not find online how much power this draws with no load (self-use) or the efficiency. I am evaluating this to power a refrigerator from batteries. However, if this non-sine inverter could power/charge an APC UPS I might be able to make it my only inverter.


        It is an excellent price on Amazon.
        I also could not find any reference to a "No Load" Amp draw. Most quality inverters show something in the 0.X amps DC for no load. Others just provide an amp rating but don't tell you if it is DC or AC. Still others don't tell you anything.

        I am not saying the Tripp-Lite is poor quality. I saying I just can't find any specification about that unit with reference to a "No Load" amp draw.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by SunEagle View Post
          I also could not find any reference to a "No Load" Amp draw. Most quality inverters show something in the 0.X amps DC for no load. Others just provide an amp rating but don't tell you if it is DC or AC. Still others don't tell you anything.

          I am not saying the Tripp-Lite is poor quality. I saying I just can't find any specification about that unit with reference to a "No Load" amp draw.
          Their description of being robust enough to handle surges better than other inverters and the low cost piques my interest. However, the 24v version is expensive.

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          • #20
            Originally posted by lkruper View Post
            Regarding the Tripp-Lite-PV1250FC, I could not find online how much power this draws with no load (self-use) or the efficiency.
            Took me 6 seconds

            No load - 2.2A at 12V DC
            http://www.tripplite.com/industrial-...lets~PV1250FC/
            MSEE, PE

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            • #21
              12 Volts DUH

              Guys the problem you are going to run into is just about all 12 volt Inverters, especially those found in box stores and brands like Stanley, Black n Decker, Energizer.... are pretty cheaply made MSW Inverters intended to be used in a vehicle with the motor running and alternator carrying the load. Put it to you another way. If your Inverter has standard 120 Volt Receptacles for you to plug into, you have a mobile, and if it cost less than $1/watt, it is just bare minimum electronics to make a MSW Inverter. Its a Toy. You can find some decent Inverters made for Marine and RV. But expect to pay $1/watt for good TSW units with good efficiency. Most of the stuff out there is junk and very inefficient.
              MSEE, PE

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              • #22
                Thanks Sunking. I was digging up the manual and that's not listed in there. I don't know of the other models but the 1250fc has a load sense that will turn off the inverter when it's not needed.

                I didn't go 24v because dual banks or a transform is more headaches. Plus while 24v is more efficient for bigger loads, our biggest load is the microwave pulling 1375w. Everything else is 900w or less.

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                • #23
                  Originally posted by Sunking View Post

                  !!! I was on that page... They overloaded that column... You must be good at where's waldo

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                  • #24
                    Originally posted by lkruper View Post
                    !!! I was on that page... They overloaded that column... You must be good at where's waldo
                    Nah, just experience with Tripp.Lite. They are popular with the Electronic Hobbyist and Students. Budget friendly slightly better than Box Store Stuff. Just about all Tripp.Lite Inverters in that power range will consume 2 to 3 amps collecting dust. Even if they do use low Stand-By power claimed efficiency is at Full Power. Many when operated at less than Full Power are 50% and less efficient. To get the really efficient stuff cost money and most of it is for 24 Volt and higher applications...................................... ................................... BOTTOM LINE IS THIS: If your Inverter requires more than 80 to 100 amps to operate at full Power....... You are operating at too dang low of a voltage and at high risk of FIRE. Very few people have the skills or knowledge to terminate anything larger, or even know if there was a problem until you see smoke and fire. Save yourself a serious chunk of coins and add safety my moving to higher voltages.
                    MSEE, PE

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                    • #25
                      Originally posted by Sunking View Post
                      Nah, just experience with Tripp.Lite. They are popular with the Electronic Hobbyist and Students. Budget friendly slightly better than Box Store Stuff. Just about all Tripp.Lite Inverters in that power range will consume 2 to 3 amps collecting dust. Even if they do use low Stand-By power claimed efficiency is at Full Power. Many when operated at less than Full Power are 50% and less efficient. To get the really efficient stuff cost money and most of it is for 24 Volt and higher applications...................................... ................................... BOTTOM LINE IS THIS: If your Inverter requires more than 80 to 100 amps to operate at full Power....... You are operating at too dang low of a voltage and at high risk of FIRE. Very few people have the skills or knowledge to terminate anything larger, or even know if there was a problem until you see smoke and fire. Save yourself a serious chunk of coins and add safety my moving to higher voltages.
                      Is the fire danger internal to the inverter and I'd so would a ul listing mitigate?

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                      • #26
                        Originally posted by Sunking View Post
                        Shoot. I saw that website but did not click on the "Full Specification" link. Thanks SK.

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by lkruper View Post
                          Is the fire danger internal to the inverter and I'd so would a ul listing mitigate?
                          No sir. Wiring and connections between Battery Term Post and Inverter input Terminals. Large Inverters can melt battery lead post, and a loose connection on a Battery Term Post will melt it under high current.
                          Last edited by SunEagle; 09-01-2015, 08:53 AM. Reason: spelling
                          MSEE, PE

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                          • #28
                            Originally posted by Sunking View Post
                            No sir. Wiring and connections between Battery Term Post and Inverter input Terminals. Large Inverters can melt battery lead post, and a loose connection on a Battery Term Post will melt it under high current.
                            Sunking, that is an excellent point beginners like me can easily ignore - risks of higher power inverters. I did not even think about that and this could probably be the main reason to limit the size of the inverter. Thanks for the insight again. Really helpful.

                            I looked around for inverters and I guess Magnum Energy inverters are the best in the long term. Used ones are not so easily available so I guess I will have to go for something cheaper for immediate needs and then keep looking for a Magnasine.

                            Has any one had any experience with:
                            http://www.solarodyssey.us/

                            Specs look good but I am not expecting a top quality at that price.

                            Hemant

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                            • #29
                              Originally posted by hemanthariyani View Post
                              Sunking, that is an excellent point beginners like me can easily ignore - risks of higher power inverters. I did not even think about that and this could probably be the main reason to limit the size of the inverter. Thanks for the insight again. Really helpful.
                              I will make it really simple, even a Hack can understand. 6 AWG Copper Stranded Wire is about as large of a conductor as a DIY can possible work with and have any kind of chance of terminating properly. In fact no real need as you can buy pre-terminated cables. #6AWG 90 degree insulation Power Wire in Free Air can handle up to about 105 Amps. Well guess what limits that sets in terms of Inverter Wattage. 1000 watts @ 12 volts, 2000 watts @ 24 volts, and 4000 watts @ 48 volts. Logic so simple a 5th Grader can instantly do a sanity check. You want a 2000 watt Inverter at 12 Volts?
                              MSEE, PE

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                              • #30
                                It was a pain having to buy a 16 ton crimping tool but it sure makes short work out of the 1/0 lugs. Actually I ordered the 12 ton and got the 16 ton instead. those 240 mm dies are the size of my thumb. lol

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