Originally posted by Solar_Marine
View Post
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Most Popular Topics
Collapse
Solar to mineral accretion underwater!
Collapse
X
-
CS6P-260P/SE3000 - http://tiny.cc/ed5ozx -
Okey Dokey, Vinaka (thanks in Fijian) guys,
So unfortunately the 50w being out of stock, I have an option of a 140w panel, specs are:
Isc 8.25
Vsc 22.1
Ipmax 7.9
Vpmax 17.6
The 50w panel we have talked so much about has:
Isc 2.95
Ipmax 2.73
Now am I correct in thinking if I wire these two panels in parallel I only get the highest amps of around 2.7, the same as my smaller panel? if so should I be looking for a similar panel in Isc and Ip ratings?
ThanksComment
-
Originally posted by Solar_Marine View PostOkey Dokey, Vinaka (thanks in Fijian) guys,
So unfortunately the 50w being out of stock, I have an option of a 140w panel, specs are:
Isc 8.25
Vsc 22.1
Ipmax 7.9
Vpmax 17.6
The 50w panel we have talked so much about has:
Isc 2.95
Ipmax 2.73
Now am I correct in thinking if I wire these two panels in parallel I only get the highest amps of around 2.7, the same as my smaller panel? if so should I be looking for a similar panel in Isc and Ip ratings?
Thanks
You get the lower of the two currents when you wire them in series.
To get the most amps for your buck, you need to go with the lowest possible nominal panel voltage.SunnyBoy 3000 US, 18 BP Solar 175B panels.Comment
-
Originally posted by Solar_Marine View PostSo unfortunately the 50w being out of stock, I have an option of a 140w panel, specs are:
Ipmax 7.9
Vpmax 17.6
The 50w panel we have talked so much about has:
Ipmax 2.73
Now am I correct in thinking if I wire these two panels in parallel I only get the highest amps of around 2.7, the same as my smaller panel? if so should I be looking for a similar panel in Isc and Ip ratings?
Thanks
You are only interested in current and could care less about voltage in your application because you are shorting the panels out. Current adds in PARALLEL so if you add the 140 panel you go from 2.72 amps to 2.73 + 7.9 amps = 10.63 amps.
Motto of this story when you go panel shopping the only number you are concerned with is Ipmax aka current at maximum power. You want the largest number you can afford.MSEE, PEComment
-
Righteo,
Connected up the other solar panel in parallel and it is working a dream! Bubbling away at the cathode,
I have some more questions though,
So now I have upped my amps going to the structure by adding another panel in parallel, now what is happening is that mineral accretion is happening quite rapidly around the anode, further away from the anode accretion is slower and slower,
Ideally adding another anode would be great as it would allow a better spread of electrons over the cathode, however is it possible to split the positive wire at the structure to another anode and not have too much performance loss? Or will that greatly affect the amps getting to both anodes?
Thanks,Comment
-
Originally posted by Solar_Marine View PostRighteo,
Connected up the other solar panel in parallel and it is working a dream! Bubbling away at the cathode,
I have some more questions though,
So now I have upped my amps going to the structure by adding another panel in parallel, now what is happening is that mineral accretion is happening quite rapidly around the anode, further away from the anode accretion is slower and slower,
Ideally adding another anode would be great as it would allow a better spread of electrons over the cathode, however is it possible to split the positive wire at the structure to another anode and not have too much performance loss? Or will that greatly affect the amps getting to both anodes?
Thanks,
You could add a small resistor in series with the electrode to help with the balancing, if you want, since you have room to add some resistance before the available current from the panels will start dropping off.CS6P-260P/SE3000 - http://tiny.cc/ed5ozxComment
-
Originally posted by Solar_Marine View Postwould it reduce the amps of the whole circuit or just at the anode?CS6P-260P/SE3000 - http://tiny.cc/ed5ozxComment
-
Marina power outlet to seawater electrolysis acreation
Hi there, I am trying to put together a project to transplant reef corals. I read and followed all your posts to Solar Marine who has a similar project to mine.
I am reaching to you because I have not been able to figure what would be the best and right way to get 1.23 volts at the electrodes.
The project will be located within a marina which is surrounded by a rock wall and close to regular city power supply. I would say the anode and the cathode cables will have to be around 65 to 70 feet long, there is 110 and 220 volts power supply available all around the marina.
I figure the cable coming out of the marina's pedestal power outlet goes to a transformer, then a cable goes to an AC to DC converter, then to a voltage regulator and from there the two electrode cables go in the water.
I am not an electrician or a scientist as you can tell but I love sea life and I want to see that marina full of corals.
I would greatly appreciate your advise.
ThanksComment
-
-
Originally posted by Gtrance View PostHow do I create a thread in this forum?
http://www.solarpaneltalk.com/forumd...for-homeowners
Near the top (but below the ads) is
+ Post New Thread Page 1 of 164 1 2 3 11 51 101 ... Next LastLast
Threads 1 to 20 of 3268
Forum: Solar panel systems for homeowners
If you are a homeowner who is about to put a solar panel system on your home or you are a newbie to the solar market, get started here! A non-technical forum to help you understand the in's and out's of solar.
The POST NEW THREAD is in a colored bubble box - click it and you get to start a new thread.Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-ListerComment
-
Originally posted by Sunking View Post
The only other way I can think of to make a standard 12 volt battery panel to work is to use a Buck DC to DC Converter which steps down the voltage and boost the current to make the panel behave like a Voltage Source. But none exist for this application and would be a custom build specifically for the purpose.
Step it up at the panel to reduce the current losses (30V). Then step it down to 2V at the load.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LM2596S-Powe...item1c41b61d49
Specification:
Input voltage:4V-35V
Output voltage:1.23V-30V(Adjustable)
Output current:Rated current is 2A,maximum 3A(Additional heatsink is required)
Dimension:43*20*14mm(L*W*H)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171301504949...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Model Specification:
1. XTW6009 boost module
2. Module Properties:Non-isolated boost (BOOST)
3. Rectification:Non-Synchronous Rectification
4. Input Range:3V~32V
5. Output Range:5V~35V
6. Input Current:4A (max), no-load 18mA (5V input, 8V output, no-load is less than 18mA. Higher the voltage, the greater the load current.)
7. Conversion efficiency:<94% (greater the pressure, the lower the efficiency)
8. Switching frequency:400KHz
9. Output Ripple:50mV (the higher the voltage, the greater the current, the greater the ripple)
10. Load Regulation:±0.5%
11. Voltage Regulation:±0.5%
12. Dimensions:43mm*21mm*14mm (L*W*H)Comment
Comment