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sharkbite fittings OK for solar loop?

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  • sharkbite fittings OK for solar loop?

    I am trying to get a closed-loop antifreeze system up and running. I had soldered all of the 3/4" copper fittings and have been finding leaks, one after the other. I'm tempted to use the slip-on shark bite fittings like those sold at home depot, and replace all of the poorly-sweated elbows. I'm concerned about the heat in those pipes, though, especially in the hot side of the loop. Sharkbite says it can handle up to 200F. Would it be crazy to install these on the hot side of the loop? How about on the cool side? What kind of fluid temperatures can I expect to have in my hot loop?

  • #2
    I used a Shark bite fitting to make a quick repair on my hydronic heat get system. I swore that I'd replace the fitting after the heating season, but never did. It's been holding for more than 5 years. My hydronic loops can get up to 90 degree C.

    But, rather than using a bunch of relatively expensive Sharkbite fittings, you might try to figure out why your solder joints are leaking. Make sure the joints are shiny clean, use a good Flux, make sure no water is present, and make sure there's a way for pressure inside the pipe (from when you sweat the joint) to escape.

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    • #3
      you might try to figure out why your solder joints are leaking. Make sure the joints are shiny clean, use a good Flux, make sure no water is present, and make sure there's a way for pressure inside the pipe (from when you sweat the joint) to escape.
      Ditto. Soldered joints have been around a LONG time and it's often the copper pipe that pin-holes before any joints go bad.
      Clean, sand or brush the pipe and fitting till it's shiny copper, use flux (thin film on both parts) and heat, let the joint wick solder into itself when it's hot enough - works like magic. Hmm, have you trained as a wizard's apprentice before trying soldered joints ?

      Should be many youtube videos out there on plumbing soldering. Pure tin solder needs higher heat than standard 50:50 does, so I'd use the tried & true 50:50, as long as it's not in potable water loop.
      Powerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
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      • #4
        The secret to good solder joints is clean pipe and fittings. If the pipe is old you can use a dilute mixture of muriatic acid to clean the pipe, then sand slightly & flux.
        Do not use 95/5 it is the most difficult solder to use as it does not easily fill voids between the pipe & fitting and requires more heat to melt.
        Be carefull not to overheat the joint, heat to the point where the solder melts and draws into the joint then remove heat, and continue to add the solder until joint is full.
        I use Harris Bridgit solder, it is a nickle silver aloy that is extremely strong and fills voids easily. I have used it on 6" copper that was very difficult to solder because of the fitting looseness and the heat transfer of the pipe. It is now the only solder that I use buying it by the case.

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        • #5
          thanks for the responses and tips on proper soldering. I'm baffled because i feel like I treated all the joints equally, but some leak while others don't. Also, still curious what others think of using the sharkbite fittings on a high-temp solar hot water loop.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by Jarvis View Post
            thanks for the responses and tips on proper soldering. I'm baffled because i feel like I treated all the joints equally, but some leak while others don't. Also, still curious what others think of using the sharkbite fittings on a high-temp solar hot water loop.
            From my experience of talking to folks, in general, plumbers and people who know what they are doing think soldered joints preferable, and they sleep better at night. There is some art that goes with the technology.

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            • #7
              I don't even know what a "shark bite" fitting is - a compression fitting I suppose.
              [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]

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              • #8
                Originally posted by russ View Post
                I don't even know what a "shark bite" fitting is - a compression fitting I suppose.
                They work similar to a "Chinese handcuff" or "finger trap" where the harder you try to pull your finger out the harder the "bite" on the finger or in "shark bite" case the copper pipe.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by russ View Post
                  I don't even know what a "shark bite" fitting is - a compression fitting I suppose.
                  It is a variation on a barb type fitting in that the seal is against the inside of the PEX or copper, not the outside as with a compression fitting.
                  The retention of the tubing over the barb is where the "bite" comes in, and with a proper tool the jaws can be loosened allowing the tubing to be pulled back off without damage.
                  Just like you can take off the finger trap by pushing on the end instead of pulling on the middle.
                  SunnyBoy 3000 US, 18 BP Solar 175B panels.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Jarvis View Post
                    thanks for the responses and tips on proper soldering. I'm baffled because i feel like I treated all the joints equally, but some leak while others don't. Also, still curious what others think of using the sharkbite fittings on a high-temp solar hot water loop.
                    Sharkbite fittings are for DIY'ers that don't know how to solder, or for temporary emergency fix's, or connecting pex to copper if you don't have the proper fittings on hand.
                    The single neoprene o ring in the fitting is the only thing keeping the connection from leaking.
                    I would not use a Sharkbite on solar collector where temps can reach 250-300 + degrees F.

                    PS soldering takes a little practice.
                    leaky fittings need to be disassembled, cleaned and then resoldered.

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                    • #11
                      thanks, LucMan.
                      Is it OK to reuse fittings where the solder joint has failed, or is it just a safer bet to use a new fitting?

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                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Jarvis View Post
                        thanks, LucMan.
                        Is it OK to reuse fittings where the solder joint has failed, or is it just a safer bet to use a new fitting?
                        As he just said: If you can disassemble them and properly clean them, including removal of any burned flux, you can re-use. But it is a lot harder to clean the inside of a fitting than the outside of a pipe.
                        Any place within the fitting where the clearance between a bump inside the fitting and the pipe inside it is zero to start with you may get a failure of new solder to flow properly and bond metal to metal.
                        Anyplace that you have ash or burned residue it may not be dissolved by the flux and will keep the solder from adhering to the metal.
                        You do not want the solder to be just a bulk filler that hardens when it cools. It needs to make an allow bond to the copper where it touches it.
                        SunnyBoy 3000 US, 18 BP Solar 175B panels.

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                        • #13
                          Originally posted by Jarvis View Post
                          thanks, LucMan.
                          Is it OK to reuse fittings where the solder joint has failed, or is it just a safer bet to use a new fitting?
                          You can clean with the proper sized fitting brush while the solder is still molten.
                          Be carefull it's easy to get burned while cleaning this way.
                          Or just use a new fitting cleaned with the copper fitting brush you just bought.

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