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6x6 poly solar cells tabing

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  • #16
    Originally posted by a7m1 View Post
    so what would be a good load? do i get the voltage down to "Zero" or close to zero?
    any specific resistor to do the trick ?
    A wire is a perfectly good ~0 Ohm resistor. In other words, wire the panel straight to the ammeter.

    And I do not know of any meter that "takes its own load into account when displaying the measurement" for the simple reason that it cannot detect the characteristics of the rest of the circuit and so would not know how to correct, even if it were appropriate.
    The burden is on the user to know the limitations of their tools.
    SunnyBoy 3000 US, 18 BP Solar 175B panels.

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    • #17
      Originally posted by inetdog View Post
      A wire is a perfectly good ~0 Ohm resistor. In other words, wire the panel straight to the ammeter.

      And I do not know of any meter that "takes its own load into account when displaying the measurement" for the simple reason that it cannot detect the characteristics of the rest of the circuit and so would not know how to correct, even if it were appropriate.
      The burden is on the user to know the limitations of their tools.
      i thought of something that add up it's own usage or something

      so i can get the current reading by wiring ammeter directly (This is what i thought of and did) was only 1.43 A !!!!! must be because of all cracked cells and bad tabbing

      how can wiring an ammeter tells me how much current i am producing? there isn't any load that gets the voltage close to 0V


      i am really confused here

      and about wiring junction box how can i do it? i did it already
      my junction box has 2 diodes and 3 terminals

      1 2 3
      diode| diode|
      1 2 3

      the "|" indicate the polarity or whatever with diodes
      i get half the voltage by getting power from 1 and 2 terminals
      and full voltage by 1 and 3 terminal

      everything correct here?

      thanks alot for follow ups

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      • #18
        If you connect the ammeter directly from the panel + to the panel -, the ammeter itself is the close to zero ohm load. Since it is close to zero ohms, it does not absorb a significant amount of power, and the panels are not delivering more than a tiny amount of power, just current.

        I think you would benefit from a basic course in electricity at this point, if you have that resource available.
        SunnyBoy 3000 US, 18 BP Solar 175B panels.

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        • #19
          Originally posted by inetdog View Post
          If you connect the ammeter directly from the panel + to the panel -, the ammeter itself is the close to zero ohm load. Since it is close to zero ohms, it does not absorb a significant amount of power, and the panels are not delivering more than a tiny amount of power, just current.

          I think you would benefit from a basic course in electricity at this point, if you have that resource available.
          i understood that, though in my openion first it looks like short circuit if you ignore the ammeter device circuity inside

          so 1.43 is false and the result should be higher, ? or lower i had the ammeter plugged in directly no load nothing

          sorry for asking all these questions just thought they are related to the subject , now i'll quit asking and learn " from the internet" really time is not worth it i just need the basics

          thanks again appreciate all your help and everyone's help

          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by a7m1 View Post
            i understood that, though in my openion first it looks like short circuit if you ignore the ammeter device circuity inside

            so 1.43 is false and the result should be higher, ? or lower i had the ammeter plugged in directly no load nothing

            sorry for asking all these questions just thought they are related to the subject , now i'll quit asking and learn " from the internet" really time is not worth it i just need the basics

            thanks again appreciate all your help and everyone's help
            When you want to measure the short circuit current, you want a short circuit.

            If the maximum current you get is 1.43A, then at least one cell is defective and is limiting the current through the series string. If you have bypass diodes in place, then all of the sections but one are likely to have bad cells and be bypassing current through the diode. The remaining section then also has at least one bad cell, but the bypass diode is not conducting since that is the only segment left and has a current limit that is higher than the other sections.
            The panel is useless unless you are able to identify and replace or short out the bad cells.
            You always want to test each cell before tabbing, and then test again after tabbing and before encapsulation. Any cells that are visibly cracked after tabbing should be replaced immediately if you can, and shorted out if you cannot replace them.
            SunnyBoy 3000 US, 18 BP Solar 175B panels.

            Comment

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