Try putting the slygard on the glass first then put your cells down then put the slygard on . that should take out all the air
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Originally posted by DeltaFox 25 View PostTry putting the slygard on the glass first then put your cells down then put the slygard on . that should take out all the air
thanks.Comment
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Try putting your cells on a different surface , like a 1/4 inch piece of plywood . asemlbe them there after you have the slygard down you can have some one help you angle your plywood down to the front of the glass and when you get the first roll down slowly back the plywood out the cells should stay there.Comment
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Originally posted by DeltaFox 25 View PostTry putting your cells on a different surface , like a 1/4 inch piece of plywood . asemlbe them there after you have the slygard down you can have some one help you angle your plywood down to the front of the glass and when you get the first roll down slowly back the plywood out the cells should stay there.Comment
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wash soldered cells in IPA, triple rinse in IPA....
* IPA isopropyl alcoholOriginally posted by electricsuperduty View PostWashing your cells in this turns them yukkie greenish, what Iam I not doing correctly?
Actually i just used a Q tip dipped in IPA to see if it would remove flux( did not remove) but I can see where I whiped it, that is the yukkie looking cell.
If you are using drugstore 70% rubbing alcohol, then you are leaving a lot of water and residue behind. A cotton swab will work to help remove softened goo, but by itself, you will need dozens soaked in IPA to clean 1 cell. And then on the the next and the next. You need a 3 tray system, to wash and rinse the cells in.
There are other, stronger ways to wash, but they all end with IPA rinses:
http://www.micromagazine.com/archive/03/04/song.html
http://www.epi-inc.net/articles/article2.htmPowerfab top of pole PV mount (2) | Listeroid 6/1 w/st5 gen head | XW6048 inverter/chgr | Iota 48V/15A charger | Morningstar 60A MPPT | 48V, 800A NiFe Battery (in series)| 15, Evergreen 205w "12V" PV array on pole | Midnight ePanel | Grundfos 10 SO5-9 with 3 wire Franklin Electric motor (1/2hp 240V 1ph ) on a timer for 3 hr noontime run - Runs off PV ||
|| Midnight Classic 200 | 10, Evergreen 200w in a 160VOC array ||
|| VEC1093 12V Charger | Maha C401 aa/aaa Charger | SureSine | Sunsaver MPPT 15A
solar: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-Solar
gen: http://tinyurl.com/LMR-ListerComment
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Originally posted by aaclevy View PostIts about the corporate life - solar panels are under $1 a watt - the $58/60 watt panel is here.
www.sunelec.com got 2000 panels in at $58/60 watts per panel...
You can buy 1500 watts to start - and the government pays you back in credits - so much so that here, in NC we get a total of 65% tax credit; reduced proportionally by the federal tax on the income from the NC tax credit.
Still, I calculate a a costs payback in only 6-7 years if I use 1.5" x 1/8th wall aluminum square tubing, bolts and the S-5! clamps. I can use a screwgun and have a metal roof... I might order another 25 panels too; i use avg 1000kw/mo but you can get a 30% discount on buying the new fujitsu halycom line - 26 seer on the 9000 btu one - and its a one ton heatpump too -- only $1600 bucks at younits.com... i've already bulb'ed the house with the CFLs.
Anyway, yeah... like 2000 for 1500 watts of panels and lke 800 in shipping. or a good reason to take a trip to miami.
SO that took a while.
Main Point!!! - the government pays 65% for it in NC, and if you're low income, you can take the credit over 5 years.
You can build and install a 1500 watt grid tie system for a very low price; for example i'm looking at the Tripp Lite APS2448UL 2400W 48V DC to AC Inverter
its only like $700... so $4500 in total components, with mounting tubes and then get code inspected...
You might want to put in safety devices.... lightning arrestors, fuses etc as required by local safety code.Comment
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Originally posted by electricsuperduty View PostI have all 4 sets of 9 strings (6x6) cells soldered and tabbed together, I don't think I would be able to "slide" the configuration onto the sylgard glazed glass. How do you actually get that done? I tried looking at your Pics but there too small.
thanks.Comment
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Any update on the use of "Thru the roof"
Just wondering if anyone has any updates on the use of "Thru the Roof" for encapsulating?
It has been over a year since the original posting on its use and I was wondering about the long term effects?
Did it yellow over time?
Did it cause long term issues with the cells, corrosion or other detrimental effects?
Thanks.Comment
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cheap methods of encapsulating
Hi i am new to this forum and new to making solar panels i have most of the parts and stuff needed to assemble several panels but the cost of encapsulating material is crazy .i noticed that CHP in Canada found a product that he thought might work out but i havnt been able to find a post to say whether he found it suitable or not, maybe someone could post if they know. i am in Canada like CHP and just cant find anything suitable around here in B C
thanksComment
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Originally posted by pmitch1400 View PostHi i am new to this forum ...
Even if your question seems to fall under several topics, please choose just one of them to post each request in. It will save space on the forum and will keep all of the answers in one place.SunnyBoy 3000 US, 18 BP Solar 175B panels.Comment
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cheap methods of encapsulating
Hi guys!
I am new here, i just received my EVA film few days ago and only to unwrap it few hours ago and then I started experimenting with it and this is what my first encapsulation looked like https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B7BP...it?usp=sharing
20130531_214826-tile.jpg
I only used one layer of EVA film on the back of the solar cell against the front of a 3mm plexiglass. Does anybody knows what is the pros and cons of this method? Will this works and will it last?
I understand the sandwich method which is plexi - eva - cells - eva - plexi but I figured that if this works, i can save some money on eva film.Comment
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